DC350

Not sure what it is with my a/f gauge but it seems to go ape **** at about over 60% throttle it goes from Rich to lean and back very quickly, i think its still reading just the LEDS dont stay in one spot...

This is hard to explain but i'll give it my best.. They should be in one spot moving from rich to lean or whatever slowly... just the leds go back to LEAN but when moving up the gauge rapidly and repeat so fast, they stop at where the a/f is....


Anyone else have this problem??


But under 60 percent throttle they seem to work properly.. could this be because of untuned 710 cc secondaries?


evan

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

Have u tried another O2 sensor?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

first off they are not accurate at all and usually when it is oscillating like that it means it's in closed loop.

Donn Hecht

I have a Halmeter AF-30 but it's only in there for show.
I really dont trust those A/F Gauges for nothing.
I think your just better off buying a wideband, and a EGT gauge.
Then go to the dyno for some fine tuning.

oztofrdm

what is the difference in a wideband o2 and what is a EGT guage

Pinfield357

EGT= Exhuast Gas Temperature

also a widband is much more accurate than just the stock set up but your going to be looking at around at least $300 for just the sensor and the stuff to pick up the signal

DjRannyKan

exhaust gas temp

ddub

I call my autometer a/f gauge a rainbow gauge cuz the lights flash back and forth so quickly!

Narrowband = crap. Only time it remotely works is on hills or at WOT

oztofrdm

your saying that it would cost me $300 or an o2 sensor. f that. whats soo much better about them

shiftnmadkwik

yeah when in closed loop the ecu is making changes to the mix and the gauge is too innacurate to make an accurate reading so you get the bounce. those gauges are pretty much good as idiot lights so that you can see if you go full lean WOT.. get a wideband with a 0-1v output and you can turn that guage into a real tuning meter

WAYNE88N/A

I don't know where all this flaming against the "normal" O2 sensor comes from (or by extension the "normal" A/F gauge- put your meter on that biatch at the ECU while driving and keep an eye on it for a while...What you will find is damn near instantaneous reactions to varying fuel/air conditions, and a sampling/response rate that exceeds 5 per second. Within a certain range, they are every bit as good as the widebands. My humble opinion for the day

BTW- an accurate oscillation between .4 and .5 volts at cruise tells me that bad boy is pretty damn accurate- could you tell the difference of .1v worth of O2 content if exhaust was shoved up YOUR ***?

SureShot

Mine works the same way.
The bouncing is normal closed loop ECU tuning with the oxygen sensor.
The standard A/F gauge is kind of on/off.
I'm saving for a wideband this month.
http://www.plxdevices.com/index.htm

Check out this video link to see the comparison. click here

jon88se

I've heard that during a dyno test with a wideband, the GReddy AF gauge (with it's own narrow band sensor) is spot on with the wideband...

For the cheapy light gauges, think of it as an O2 sensor tester

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Um if you have an n/a pretty much stock then don't worry about getting a wideband o2 sensor however if you have a turbo and lots of mods that could blow your engine up if its starved of fuel then you need to get yourself a wideband to see exactly how lean or rich your car is. Wayne is smarter than me so he probably has some sort of multimeter setup at the ecu and has the geometrical logitudinal graphical interface spliced in with the cpu and test the a/f numbers that way but for us guys that are more neandratholic we like to have a pretty much plug and play device that will show us how lean or rich we are with accuracy! And for this we get widebands http://www.plxdevices.com/index.htm is one that alot of people get because of the simplicity and size.

koukifc3s

iTrader: (3)

Would the M-300 @ $329 work ok?

SureShot

Check out the links in my previous post...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah the m300 is the one I'm going to get

patman

iTrader: (3)

a 'normal' O2 guage is supposed to do that. that means its in closed loop, and that the ration is hovering right around 14.7. for an NA, this is perfect. For a stock turbo, you should see that off boost, and a rich reading on boost. This type of guage is very accurate within the stoich range, but not much good outside of it. If you have a modified turbo car, you might want to get a real O2 guage, or just have the car tuned right and not worry about it.

pat