SpYdEr

I searched, that's the thread that I was looking for, but mine is totally the opposite.

Mine is pegged at Rich when idle and bounces around Stoich when driving, occasionally tapping the top of Lean but not further.

This is backwards, I have no fuel mods and everything runs fine...any idea why it's reporting wrong?

Was thinking possibly it could be a grounding issue and I'll ground it when I go to rewire it all, but it's tapped into the ECU 02, as many people did (from reading posts thru search) and they seemed to work fine. If no one has any ideas, I'll end up wiring it to the actual 02 sensor.

Just double checking, the 02 sensor is on our downpipe?

2 hott

iTrader: (4)

I read rich at idle also and constant speed is around stoich. only time it goes lean is on deceleration. Yes o2 sensor is on the DP.

SpYdEr

Alright, thanks for confirming the 02 location.....

That thread I read, everyone said it sits in Lean at idle, and Rich at WOT...so I think something isn't right

I'll re-wire it unless, someone else has any suggestions.

BlackRx7

I read rich at idle if the car is warmed up, any other time it bounces back and forth from lean to rich is just crusing, under boost it is full Rich.....woops I always say it backwards I'm kinda dslec,,,, whatever

2 hott

iTrader: (4)

Full lean is bad at full boost I would have that checked!

CanadianRX7

Your gauge is reading fine.

AT idle is reads rich and when u get on it(wot) it should go lean because u r using up so much fuel. Going lean is not a good thing but its fine as long as it doesnt go to lean. Pretty much the harder u step on the gas the leaner it will go.

Running rich all the time is wasting gas.

i would like to know when u should be worried when watching your gauge though. How far lean before u should let off.

NZConvertible

That thread was about problems with his A/F gauge; it wasn’t reading right.
This is what you should see:

Warm up:
No lights or maybe some flickering. The sensor takes about 5 mins to warm up during which time the gauge is useless.

Warm idle:
Depends on the car, some are rich, some lean. As long as it’s not excessive, you’re OK.

Light throttle cruise:
Rapidly flickering back and forth over stoich. The ECU goes into closed-loop and tries to maintain stoich to maximise fuel economy.

Full thottle:
Full rich! If it starts to head back towards the middle, get off the gas immediately!

Closed throttle:
No lights. The ECU shuts off the injectors, so you’ll get no reading.

If your readings are different, you have a problem. Don’t do that, you’ll only cause more problems. It should work fine wired in at the ECU.

CanadianRX7

really?? it should read full rich when on wot?? depending on boost though right??It wont be as bad with no mods apposed to full exhuast intake etc..??what about when its in the middle?? is it still not safe to boost high??

SpYdEr

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...oto=nextnewest

Mine sits at Rich even when the car is warmed up...as some people stated it changes once the car has heated up some.

SpYdEr

It sits on rich, pegged max from startup to after the car is warm and doesn't change when idle no matter how long it's warmed or anything.....

Again, pegged on Rich, which would be excessive right? Most friend bounce around when warmed.

Light throttle moves it away from max Rich, but not much, only moves rapid when mid throttle.

Full throttle, pushes it into Stoich with occasionally tapping the top two lights in lean.

Closed throttle, pegged in max Rich.

Any suggestions? Obviously I have a prob if that's how it's supposed to be reading hehe. I read about grounding it, is this a strong possiblity?

NZConvertible

Completely stock, the mixtures under full load are quite rich. All factory turbo cars are like this, it’s to protect the engine. Going overboard on airflow mods will eventually see the mixtures get too lean, as the stock fuel system can’t keep up.
On a stock or mildly modded car, some power can be gained by leaning out the conservative factory mixtures slightly (with a S-AFC for example), but this should only be done on a dyno with a wide-band A/F meter. You mean the middle of the gauge? That’s far too lean for full load. Chamber temps will be very high and detonation is almost guaranteed.

Scott 89t2

with a working air pump/ ACV it should read full lean at idle becuase the airpump is pumbing air in before the 02 sensor so It gets a false reading. if you have removed the air pump, or your ACV is not working right it'll read rich at idle.

yes it should read almost full rich at wot, or even past 1/2 throttle or so. mine sits one light from the rich. which would be .8-.9 volts (10 led gauge) it should be around .85 or so at WOT.

and now with no airpump it sits 1 or 2 lights from right at idle (.7-.9v) with the air pump on it was the first lean light. 0-.1v at idle.

BlackRx7

I correct myslef above I meant full rich

2 hott

iTrader: (4)

sounds much better and safer

SpYdEr

I have not removed the air pump

Grr this is gonna bug me.......

CanadianRX7

O i see. I dont have a a/f gauge yet but i will get one soon. I plan on taking off my air pump soon also but i have a cat on my exhaust so that makes it even the emmisions wont be too bad.

SpYdEr

From what I hear it warms up, then reads.....not always but sometimes *shrug*

Im still pulling out my hair trying to figgure out why mine isn't reading right.

SpYdEr

I don't hate autometer, I hate the crappy way things are put together on the RX-7. Nothing is done like "most" cars.... everything is in the most inconvienent place!

Not to mention how sh*tty they did the stock wiring

BlackRx7

well I have personally taped my O2 sensor wire 5-6 inches after the plug, it seems to work fine for me, I have my air pump removed also and acv blocked off

SpYdEr

Anyone happen to have a pic of the tapped wire? Upclose if possible, just to make 100% sure I have the right one....

Something isn't right and I want to figgure out why... I know it's a long shot but so far no one has suggested what may be wrong.

NZConvertible

Unless it's broken, you can't blame Autometer. A/F gauges are nothing more than a voltmeter using LED's as a display, and whatever the brand, they all do pretty much the same thing and work the same way. The circuit involved is incredibly simple; I know because I've built one! It only has a ten LED diplay, but it has only four components plus the LED's, took twenty minutes to assemble from a kit and cost about NZ$20. It's wired in at the ECU and performs perfectly.

NZConvertible

I haven't got an '89 wiring diagram so I can't confirm which is the correct wire, but if you have a DMM with a continuity tester, you can check it easily. Get a long piece of wire and put one end on one of the DMM's probes and the other in the O2 sensor's plug in the engine bay (the harness plug, not the sensor plug). Then use the other probe to check the wire you've tapped into. The DMM will beep if you have the right wire. If you have tapped into the wrong wire (possible judging by your symptoms), test all the other wires at the ECU until you find the right one.

HAILERS

Try the 13th pin, top row, counting from the right to the left. Thats with the connector connected and lookin in the back of the plug.