a/f and boost gauge install
a/f and boost gauge install
where should i splice into the O2 sensor wire? and what line should i "T" into for the boost gauge also what kind of T are you guys useing? and where do i get one?
also i got the autometer duel gauge pod for the A rail the directions for that say to remove it should i do that then cut a hole in the trim to put it back on or just put the pod ontop of the trim? cause i cant seem to be able to get the trim off
Originally posted by Pinfield357
also i got the autometer duel gauge pod for the A rail the directions for that say to remove it should i do that then cut a hole in the trim to put it back on or just put the pod ontop of the trim? cause i cant seem to be able to get the trim off
also i got the autometer duel gauge pod for the A rail the directions for that say to remove it should i do that then cut a hole in the trim to put it back on or just put the pod ontop of the trim? cause i cant seem to be able to get the trim off
-Ted
well i got the gauges in the pod and the pod right where i want it i have got all the wires and the vacume line down to under the dash now what? do i need to drill a hole through the firewall i cant seem to find an empty one also where should i get the 12V from? i need one that get power with the headlights for the boost but the A/F needs constant power. so which wire do i splice into? and lastly after getting the wires down to under the dash the wire that i need to connect to the O2 Sensor has only about 2 feet left should i splice more wire into it to make it longer or what?
sorry for all the questions ive just never done nething like this before...
pinfield
sorry for all the questions ive just never done nething like this before...
pinfield
OK, here we go:
The boost gauge line can be T'd off the pressure sensor or BOV lines, the easiest place to get through the firewall is an existing hole, the electrical loom in the corner of the engine bay is easily reached. I got a small plastic T from an auto parts store. It's a longish wire, but the easiest place to get a headlight feed from is the cigarette lighter illumination. Earth the light to any screw or bolt that's convenient.
For the A/F gauge, if it has illumination daisy-chain the light feed from the boost gauge, and all earths can go to the one you found for the boost gauge's light. Use a 12V test light and probe some wires with the ignition on to find a power source. As for the signal. I've been advised NOT to tap into the wire in the engine bay because it's shielded cable, and you'll probably break the shield. Instead find the right wire at the ECU, use the FSM to track it down. You should really solder all connections, but this one especially. Wire-tap connectors are OK for the others.
Good luck!
The boost gauge line can be T'd off the pressure sensor or BOV lines, the easiest place to get through the firewall is an existing hole, the electrical loom in the corner of the engine bay is easily reached. I got a small plastic T from an auto parts store. It's a longish wire, but the easiest place to get a headlight feed from is the cigarette lighter illumination. Earth the light to any screw or bolt that's convenient.
For the A/F gauge, if it has illumination daisy-chain the light feed from the boost gauge, and all earths can go to the one you found for the boost gauge's light. Use a 12V test light and probe some wires with the ignition on to find a power source. As for the signal. I've been advised NOT to tap into the wire in the engine bay because it's shielded cable, and you'll probably break the shield. Instead find the right wire at the ECU, use the FSM to track it down. You should really solder all connections, but this one especially. Wire-tap connectors are OK for the others.
Good luck!
Oops, didn't read your last post properly! To get to the cig lighter wiring, remove the plastic trim that surrounds the vents, radio and ash tray. It's held in by four screws. Pull out the vents to access the top two screws and the shift boot to access the bottom two.
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Look at your trim pieces running on the ceiling and up the sides.  You should find caps and covers that cover screws.  Remove them to loosen the ends.  With your door open, pull the soft rubber "edges" - there are metal clips that hold the panel in so you need to pry for underneath to pop them off.
-Ted
-Ted
Originally posted by Pinfield357
ok now how to get to the ECU for the a/f meter? it will be nice not having to fish that tiny wire threw the firewall with all those other wires.
ok now how to get to the ECU for the a/f meter? it will be nice not having to fish that tiny wire threw the firewall with all those other wires.
i have a small problem the wire that conects to the back of the gauge isnt very long it only goes to the center console. i guess i will have to just add another piece of wire to it. how will i tell which wire the O2 sensor is?
1JZ powered
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
I remember the days of not being able to install anything without any one's help. I'm still there(going from twins to single turbo on my FD), but I'm more confident now that I was before.
Either way, go to the apexi usa website. They should have a wiring diagram of the ECU. From there just splice into it.
Either way, go to the apexi usa website. They should have a wiring diagram of the ECU. From there just splice into it.




