2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 01:33 PM
  #26  
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hahaha..I couln't help but laugh at that last response...I'm NOT a mechanic dude...sry..I'm just trying to hold on to my car.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 01:39 PM
  #27  
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And we want to help. Think of the Factory service manual as a dictionary. It is easy to read with PICTURES of what it is telling you to do.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 01:49 PM
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Ok, however, I am writing all of this information down, cuz, I am at work right now...so I won't be able to do anything until later this evening...plus the car will need to cool down....but thank you for your help

Last edited by dlbrown; Jul 15, 2002 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 03:24 PM
  #29  
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I hate to say this, but unless your willing to become a shadetree mechanic, this might not be the car for you.

Trust noone else to work on your rotary.
not even us.. its up to you to determine what you really need to do when your car goes SPLAT.

Get the FSM, read it, if it doesnt interest you, then consider allowing your car to be adopted.

Tell us what your want to do.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 03:39 PM
  #30  
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come on dude!!!...that's not a far question!!!! I've preformed more work on this car then any car I've ever had in the past, and most of my information was obtained from the internet and people like you, and even to this day...I can't even consider selling, or putting it up for adoption...period...I'm just looking for a solution to my problem...and I'm willing to learn.

Last edited by dlbrown; Jul 15, 2002 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 03:46 PM
  #32  
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Thats good news, no need to get angry..
Its the truth.. if you really werent willing to work on the car, then for ANY of us to realize that and continue to go on with this KNOWING that you didnt want to do it, then we would simply be helping to perpetuate a bad situation for you..

I am glad to hear that you want to learn.

That was what I said, that if you did, then great, if you didnt, or had no interest ing becoming a pretty goo mechanic, and had other priorities, than you should stop totruring yourself with a car that would require so much of your time.

Its a suggestion I have mad in the past to others and they are happy now with the cars they have.

So, get that FSM, tear into it, look up the procedures for the suggestions we have made and keep asking questions!

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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 03:47 PM
  #33  
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thanks dvst8, but wouldn't there be signs of oil on the ground, plus I rev the engine up in place and still no oil!!!!
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 03:50 PM
  #34  
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I have seen a quart of oil get hidden in the subframe of the front suspention!

Are you REALLY SURE your eating oil?

you have cleaned your engine...
any signs of oil so far?

What about the draining of the coolant.. any luck there?
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 03:56 PM
  #35  
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this is what I've done thus far
Replaced the oil filter "O" rings, and that resolved the dripping of oil in that area

Had my oil & filter changed, plus I went to heavier grade of oil...20/50

Cleaned the engine down...and drove the car 100 miles..when I got home...no oil in the engine area, but the car was a quart low.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 05:10 PM
  #36  
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Wow, that's some reading! I suggest you take off the panels under your engine. Both the plastic one and the metal one. If you have a leak the oil will hit those. Is there a chance you are tipping the dip stick in back or forward when you take it out. Try to keep it level. Good luck!
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 05:16 PM
  #37  
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From: Birmingham, AL
Originally posted by Felix Wankel
The only other thing I can tell you is to look under the car where the engine and transmission mate up. I unknowingly ever-so-slightly tore a new rear main oil seal on my TII putting it in. I lost 1.5 qts of oil in about 125 miles. The underside of my car from the engine back was covered in oil.

Its only like a $6 part, but you have to drop the trans to do it. I had the trans out twice in the same week
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 09:35 PM
  #38  
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Well, I took the car to a local shop, on my way there, I got into a race with another car...after the race the guy asked if I had a oil problem...I said yes, how did you know....I guess he saw white smoke coming from my tail pipe...so yes...the car is smoking...now what???
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 09:58 PM
  #39  
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Oil seals going bad.
hunt for a rebuilt or low milage shortblock.

Get ready to swap.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 10:03 PM
  #40  
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Replacing oils seals can't be that expensive - it's been mentioned in here that they should be done every 100,000kms.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 10:50 PM
  #41  
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LOL

I mean the ROTOR OIL SEALS

No other oil seal will make burnt oil in the tailpipe.

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Old Jul 16, 2002 | 07:00 AM
  #42  
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Is it hard to replace the ROTOR OIL SEALS, or should I follow your advice and hunt for a rebuilt...how much could I actual SPEND to repair my engine damage?????
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Old Jul 16, 2002 | 09:49 AM
  #43  
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you have to rebuild the engine to replace the oil seals on the rotor..

I know tha tyou are new to these cars, but the questions you have are continuous indications that you have not read the factory service manual.

These seals are located on the sides of each rotor.
you have to rebuild to get to them.

the engine has to come out.

You have to hunt for a rebuild or low mileage motor.

you should be able to get a good used one for about $1200 installed.

Yes, you could rebuild it yourself, but you would need a very long time to do it seeing as you have not even read the manual yet.

We all here have no problem answering questions, thats what this whole forum is about, but you should really start learning what it is we are saying, read the FSM today!

Visit sites like:
www.rotaryengineillustrated.com
www.fc3s.org

download what you need.
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Old Jul 16, 2002 | 09:54 AM
  #44  
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oK...THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP
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