Exaust systems
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Exaust systems
I am trying to find a good exaust system but not put a gun to my budgets head. The exaust offered on www.rx7.com Anyone have any experience with it? The price is nice but but the piping is only 2inches. What is the stock piping?
Also, the racing beat exaust is about 120 dollars more but again 2inches.
So.....should I buy one of these affordable systems or save up awhile and purchase the Greddy/Apex dual systems. I am looking for good performance gains as well as my wallet.
This is alot of questions but anyone who can answer all of them gets a big cookie.
Also, the racing beat exaust is about 120 dollars more but again 2inches.
So.....should I buy one of these affordable systems or save up awhile and purchase the Greddy/Apex dual systems. I am looking for good performance gains as well as my wallet.
This is alot of questions but anyone who can answer all of them gets a big cookie.
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I have a 1991 NA 5spd. Car has intake. I just changed the oil, tranny fluid, cooland, plugs and wires to NGK. Car was just painted gloss black with the badges painted in victory red. Interior is all black/red (steering wheel, shifter, shift boot, gauges, mats and seats.)
So now that the looks are done and so is the preventative maintenence, I am looking towards the performance. Intake/exaust/MDracing chip/pulleys and when the motor goes than a rebuild with street port. And eventually a 40 wet shot. But for now I need to get adivce on the exaust....one thing at a time. Oh and the engine has 130k but has been well maintained.
About the corksport, its too loud and I prefer to keep the dual look. Thanks.
So now that the looks are done and so is the preventative maintenence, I am looking towards the performance. Intake/exaust/MDracing chip/pulleys and when the motor goes than a rebuild with street port. And eventually a 40 wet shot. But for now I need to get adivce on the exaust....one thing at a time. Oh and the engine has 130k but has been well maintained.
About the corksport, its too loud and I prefer to keep the dual look. Thanks.
#6
Too tell the truth, your best bet is to have a custom-made exhaust system. You want a header right? And you are worried about how loud it is right? Well you really need a presilencer(s) if your worried about sound in an NA. I bought the true-dual header for my NA but never used it at all. I was planning on using that and buying 2 presilencers and whatever mufflers I wanted and having a shop do the piping for me. Thats what I will be doing with my TII now but with a DP/MP instead of the header. I definitely agree with you on keeping the dual look though.
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I am most likely not going to use a header. I was going to go with the Bonez Flo cat system. But anyways, thanks for the advice and keep it coming.
Fast 13B, I noticed you live near me. Am interested in setting up a race with guys from my racing crew. Are you interested at all or not okay with street racing?
Anymore exaust suggestions? Goin to sleep will check them in the morning and thanks again guys.
Fast 13B, I noticed you live near me. Am interested in setting up a race with guys from my racing crew. Are you interested at all or not okay with street racing?
Anymore exaust suggestions? Goin to sleep will check them in the morning and thanks again guys.
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#8
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There are some things that are worthwile to spend your money on and others are just frills. If you want to save $ for now look for the big hp improvements not the minor ones. I've done them all...
INTAKE: keep the stock air box and get a K&N drop in. They are about $50, and are cleanable. The stock air box is the only intake setup on the 2nd gen that will rout out to cold air, and the K&N is the ****.
EXHAUST: Shell out the bucks and get the Racing Beat full dual exhaust. If it is too much for you, keep the stock manifold (if you are on a budget headers are not worth it) and get the RB cat replacement pipe/ presilencer. Finish with whatever free flowing exhaust makes you happy, just remember most are too loud/ poor quality. I suggest the RB mostly because it will make the transition to the full dual cheaper later. It really is the only big power improvement for a n/a.
CHIP: Forget it. If you even go NOS you'll want a piggyback, if you ever go big porting you'll want a standalone. Basically leave this one alone till you are ready to go standalone.
PULLEYS: Money better spent elsewhere.
For a n/a, the only things that REALLY help are a good intake, good exhaust, IMHO an aluminum flywheel *yummy*, and the best tire and suspension you can stuff under there. Regularly replace everything rubber under the hood, and keep all the fluids fresh.
~Jeremy
INTAKE: keep the stock air box and get a K&N drop in. They are about $50, and are cleanable. The stock air box is the only intake setup on the 2nd gen that will rout out to cold air, and the K&N is the ****.
EXHAUST: Shell out the bucks and get the Racing Beat full dual exhaust. If it is too much for you, keep the stock manifold (if you are on a budget headers are not worth it) and get the RB cat replacement pipe/ presilencer. Finish with whatever free flowing exhaust makes you happy, just remember most are too loud/ poor quality. I suggest the RB mostly because it will make the transition to the full dual cheaper later. It really is the only big power improvement for a n/a.
CHIP: Forget it. If you even go NOS you'll want a piggyback, if you ever go big porting you'll want a standalone. Basically leave this one alone till you are ready to go standalone.
PULLEYS: Money better spent elsewhere.
For a n/a, the only things that REALLY help are a good intake, good exhaust, IMHO an aluminum flywheel *yummy*, and the best tire and suspension you can stuff under there. Regularly replace everything rubber under the hood, and keep all the fluids fresh.
~Jeremy
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I'd be happy to race you at Qualcomm or Carlsbad, I don't do street racing anymore. Something about making payments on a car that isn't mine anymore just dosen't work for me. And, um, I hope you are thinking of something faster than your n/a...
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I stripped the hell out of my 88 GTU. I'll never do it again for a street car. For a track car, by all means, unless you are in a class that prohibits it.
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Your best bet is to go buy two of the mufflers from corksport, since they are fairly cheap and just go to a custom shop. They should do it all for anywhere between 300-400 dollars and than on top of that I think the Corksport mufflers are between 70-100 or something so do the math. I payed 324 for the catback from corksport and 150 for Bonez RP. The car does look like it has one nut but hey that is cool and there is a lot more flow and mine cost me 450-500 something.
#14
I wish I was driving!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by fast13b
INTAKE: keep the stock air box and get a K&N drop in. They are about $50, and are cleanable. The stock air box is the only intake setup on the 2nd gen that will rout out to cold air, and the K&N is the ****.
I disagree here. The stock airbox is a horrible restriction. Making a cold air box and keeping the stock air feed tube does the exact same job, if not better, of the stock air box.
CHIP: Forget it. If you even go NOS you'll want a piggyback, if you ever go big porting you'll want a standalone. Basically leave this one alone till you are ready to go standalone.
Standalone EMS on an n/a? Hardly necessary. How about using an S-AFC piggyback?
As for NOS, why would a piggyback chip be needed for a wet kit? This makes no sense. The fuel pressure, fuel jetting, nitrous jetting, and nitrous pressure regulate Nitrous Oxide injection, and the ECU runs the air/fuel injection normally.
You should never use a piggyback with a wet NOS setup.
PULLEYS: Money better spent elsewhere.
Agreed.
Efan, CDI box, street port are all better ideas...
INTAKE: keep the stock air box and get a K&N drop in. They are about $50, and are cleanable. The stock air box is the only intake setup on the 2nd gen that will rout out to cold air, and the K&N is the ****.
I disagree here. The stock airbox is a horrible restriction. Making a cold air box and keeping the stock air feed tube does the exact same job, if not better, of the stock air box.
CHIP: Forget it. If you even go NOS you'll want a piggyback, if you ever go big porting you'll want a standalone. Basically leave this one alone till you are ready to go standalone.
Standalone EMS on an n/a? Hardly necessary. How about using an S-AFC piggyback?
As for NOS, why would a piggyback chip be needed for a wet kit? This makes no sense. The fuel pressure, fuel jetting, nitrous jetting, and nitrous pressure regulate Nitrous Oxide injection, and the ECU runs the air/fuel injection normally.
You should never use a piggyback with a wet NOS setup.
PULLEYS: Money better spent elsewhere.
Agreed.
Efan, CDI box, street port are all better ideas...
#15
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Thanks for all the answers guys. So the racing beat exaust is a good one for the money and nets HP even though the piping is only 2inches. What is the stock exaust diameter size?
And fast 13b, the car I had in mind was one of the VR4s in my racing crew. I dont know what times you usually run, but I have some to accomodate you whatever they are unless you run 11s in which case I won't waste your gas.
And fast 13b, the car I had in mind was one of the VR4s in my racing crew. I dont know what times you usually run, but I have some to accomodate you whatever they are unless you run 11s in which case I won't waste your gas.
#17
Originally posted by 91REX
One other thing, which is more free flowing: Mandrel bent 2inch piping or crimp bent 2.5inch piping? Shank you.
One other thing, which is more free flowing: Mandrel bent 2inch piping or crimp bent 2.5inch piping? Shank you.
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Originally posted by scathcart
I disagree here. The stock airbox is a horrible restriction. Making a cold air box and keeping the stock air feed tube does the exact same job, if not better, of the stock air box.
I was aiming at keeping it simple. I've done stock airbox with stock filter and with a K&N, and also a HKS megaflow with and without a cold air box. An open element filter kit is $150-200 and negligibly better than just the K&N drop in. You want to talk restriction? How about the AFM???
Standalone EMS on an n/a? Hardly necessary. How about using an S-AFC piggyback?
As for NOS, why would a piggyback chip be needed for a wet kit? This makes no sense. The fuel pressure, fuel jetting, nitrous jetting, and nitrous pressure regulate Nitrous Oxide injection, and the ECU runs the air/fuel injection normally.
You should never use a piggyback with a wet NOS setup.[B/]
I would just assume one would want something extra to help control the fuel when you squeeze. As for a standalone on a n/a, if one ever got really crazy with porting the AFM would have to go, and one would want to go standalone.
PULLEYS: Money better spent elsewhere.
Agreed.
Efan, CDI box, street port are all better ideas...
I disagree here. The stock airbox is a horrible restriction. Making a cold air box and keeping the stock air feed tube does the exact same job, if not better, of the stock air box.
I was aiming at keeping it simple. I've done stock airbox with stock filter and with a K&N, and also a HKS megaflow with and without a cold air box. An open element filter kit is $150-200 and negligibly better than just the K&N drop in. You want to talk restriction? How about the AFM???
Standalone EMS on an n/a? Hardly necessary. How about using an S-AFC piggyback?
As for NOS, why would a piggyback chip be needed for a wet kit? This makes no sense. The fuel pressure, fuel jetting, nitrous jetting, and nitrous pressure regulate Nitrous Oxide injection, and the ECU runs the air/fuel injection normally.
You should never use a piggyback with a wet NOS setup.[B/]
I would just assume one would want something extra to help control the fuel when you squeeze. As for a standalone on a n/a, if one ever got really crazy with porting the AFM would have to go, and one would want to go standalone.
PULLEYS: Money better spent elsewhere.
Agreed.
Efan, CDI box, street port are all better ideas...
~Jeremy
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The RB is perfect at 2". Keep in mind the pipes are seperate all the way back, so they don't have to be as big. 2" mandrel is better. Stock is only like 2-2.5" and it is for both rotors. Any bigger and the exhaust gases will swirl in the ppes and not exit as smoothly. BIGGER does not mean BETTER!
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[B]And fast 13b, the car I had in mind was one of the VR4s in my racing crew. I dont know what times you usually run, but I have some to accomodate you whatever they are unless you run 11s in which case I won't waste your gas.[B/]
I will NEVER take anything AWD off the line. Depending on how long the race is I bet I could catch up, unless he's like 500hp or something...
~J
I will NEVER take anything AWD off the line. Depending on how long the race is I bet I could catch up, unless he's like 500hp or something...
~J
#23
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why waste your money on duals when you can get the same power ratio out of a single... not to mention the weight you'll save without haveing the y-pipe and the other muffler... Did I mention the single was LOTS cheaper than a dual? I was gonna go duals myself until I found out there's really no reason for it except looks.
-Kanaida
-Kanaida
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