CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Ok, im still trying to pull my rear subframe, i think ive goten everying but it doesnt seem like it wants to fall off

I disconnected the shocks from the wheels, the break calipers are off and tied to the shocks, the anti-sway bar is disconnected, that sub link bar (i think thats what its called) is diconnected from the subframe, the rear diff mounts are unbolted and the bottem rubber thing is off, and the bracket on the subframe and the subframe bolts are off. I think thats everyhing, i looked around with a flashlight a few times and didnt see anything, started to lower the jack and it didnt move, not at all, i did everying short of hanging from it under the car to get it to move

Any idea's?
-Jacob

Evil Aviator

Did you remove the exhaust and disconnect the propeller shaft?

Silkworm

sounds like you got everything. Did you slide the shocks off the studs? They ride on studs, you have to move the shocks off of them to lower completely.

PauLC

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I had to hit mine with a hammer on both sides to finally get it to come down....

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Yes exhaust is off, and the driveshaft is off, and theshocks are off the studs

I guess ill try hitting it with a hammer or mallot or something later

Thanks guys
-Jacob

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Any luck on getting it to move? I know mine was a pain in the *** to finally get it free, but once it started moving it was pretty easy from there.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

I mesed with it for like 5 min this morning before i had to go to class (where i am now) with no luck. I should get it out today, i just hope it doesn slide some unexpeced way and fall on me =[

-Jacob

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

well, we had the rear-end sitting on jack stands and we weren't under the car when we started hammering, and it came down rather slow, so not too big a deal, not to mention we pushed it back in place using our hands.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

It does sound like you've got most everything unbolted. Like Paul said, make sure to unbolt the driveshaft - I always manage to forget that one .

It does usually take some prying to get it loose to start coming down - use a long screwdriver to pry on it a bit. Just make sure you have the jack securely under the subframe and the car is securely on jackstands.

BTW, with air tools, I can do a rear subframe drop, fix, and replace in about 2.5 hours .

Dale

FastX7

I attempted to replace my own rear diff mount and it was alot harder than I was expecting it to be. I might just have to take it to the dealership or somewhere and have them put it in. I don't have the time right now to put it in myself.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The diff mount is a big job, and air tools and various lifting devices make the job a LOT more pleasant. I personally wouldn't attempt the job without air tools, jack stands, and 2 floor jacks.

The biggest pain in the butt is having to drop the exhaust - at least on a car with stock exhaust. N1 owners have an easy time of this - yet another instance where I wanna hug my N1 .

Dale

banzaitoyota

A/C shop with tunes and cold frosty beverages make it even more enjoyable!!!

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Lol, my exhaust is already off, as is the driveshaft, im doing this in a dirt driveway with 2 jackstands holding up the car, the jack that came with the car is holding the back of the diff up and there some wooden blocks up front so if it falls, only falls an inch or two

No Shop, No AC, NO FROSTY BEVERAGES =[ Lots of dirt and crab grass ( i have long hair, makes for a mess), No air tools, i have a 2.5 foot 1/2 breaker bar with various sockets

Well im home now and im gona go get that damn thing out of my car

-Jacob

banzaitoyota

Everybody sing:
Like Robinson Curoso, as primitive as can be!

LOL J/K, been down that road before. Thats why I have 1 1/2 shops almost finished and no 3rd gen.

SureShot

The above is why my replacement trailing arm grommets are still in the box.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Lol, actualy unbolting everything didnt take that long, im not very experienced but am gaining more and more every day. hardest part for me was actualy the top bolt on the brake calipers... it took my breaker bar and a swift kick to get both loose, after that it was relitivly painless

-Jacob

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I don't think we took my calipers off when we swapped my automatic LSD to the turbo2 lsd... I think we left em on there.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

how did you drop the subfame then? the brake line is only so long, i guess it could be done but seems ike to much work for me

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

not quite sure, I did it on an 89GXL, we didn't take many bolts off either, I think only like 6 total and we just pulled the front of it down, got to the bolts, then wiggled the differential out, and wiggled the turbo limited slip in place, and had it back up in about 2 hours or less, didn't take the calipers off at all.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Wow, ill rember that next time, i want to sand all the rust off the subframe and all its accompyining components

Well i got the damn thing off, took about a half hour, i ended up laying on the ground on my back with my feet lifting up the diff by the rear mounts and using a long bar to pry between the frame and the top of the subframe mounts, only problem is when they finaly let go i was pushing so hard on the diff that i slamed the passenger side mount back on.. and had to pry that off again, all in all it was just stuck

Now i haev a new problem, im trying to remove the lateral link and trailing arm off the subframe, I got the bolt out of the trailing arm connection that was directly behind the subframe mount, but the other bolt wont come out, i belive it is called the controle link, i got the nut off without a hitch but the bolt remains. I haev tried pounding it out and spinning it out, and a combination of both.

Its in there pretty tight, any idea's on this new matter?

-Jacob

scathcart

I think you mighta meant "woe's", unless you were shocked by the sight of your rear subframe.

Congrats on getting it out. As for the bolt, just hit harder and try not to damage the threads.

Silkworm

Also rotate the trailing arm up or down, it may be binding a bit in it's current position.

PaulC

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, i ment to correct it but didnt actualy try untill i wasnt able to edit my post

As for the bolt i tried moving the trailing arm around but didnt help, ill try more tommorow afternoon, its to dark to work

-Jacob