everythang to know about fcs
#26
anyone seen my head
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my problems have been as such
bought car $300 105xxx running erratic just needed a tune a tps and some vac lines hooked up
brakes all 4 weren't serviced for awhile
stock suspension went out
driveshaft disintegrated
clutch went
3 months later transmission seized
along with clutch
needs new motor mounts
and minor issues with a twenty year old window motor
motor still great after 25000+ miles
even though i don't maintain it as well as i should
and daily driven/weekend hard mountain driving for 21/2 years
bought car $300 105xxx running erratic just needed a tune a tps and some vac lines hooked up
brakes all 4 weren't serviced for awhile
stock suspension went out
driveshaft disintegrated
clutch went
3 months later transmission seized
along with clutch
needs new motor mounts
and minor issues with a twenty year old window motor
motor still great after 25000+ miles
even though i don't maintain it as well as i should
and daily driven/weekend hard mountain driving for 21/2 years
#27
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https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/f-s%3D%3D-clean-87-tii-814895/
can i get some opinions on this? (don't worry, i'm not going to buy it and destroy it)
the ad just seems fishy to me, the guy says it was rebuilt 6k miles ago. i emailed him but he doesn't really know what hes talking about. claims last owner did everything like paint, rebuild, whatever else, except the rims. he has no records for ANYTHING.
he says its his third fc but 19 posts? hmm...
he actually listed "put gas in the tank" as one of the things hes done to the car.
he bought the car for 3600 but thinks that its worth 4600 because he spent 988 on the wheels+tires. wtf? last i thought that when things need replacing (like tires) they get replaced...
i don't add 40 bux to the value of my car every time i change the darn oil...
edit: i don't know why people lower their cars on stock struts like CMON people save up and get some decent suspension... do you all care about looking good by lowering that much? no wonder his shocks are f-ing blown
can i get some opinions on this? (don't worry, i'm not going to buy it and destroy it)
the ad just seems fishy to me, the guy says it was rebuilt 6k miles ago. i emailed him but he doesn't really know what hes talking about. claims last owner did everything like paint, rebuild, whatever else, except the rims. he has no records for ANYTHING.
he says its his third fc but 19 posts? hmm...
he actually listed "put gas in the tank" as one of the things hes done to the car.
he bought the car for 3600 but thinks that its worth 4600 because he spent 988 on the wheels+tires. wtf? last i thought that when things need replacing (like tires) they get replaced...
i don't add 40 bux to the value of my car every time i change the darn oil...
edit: i don't know why people lower their cars on stock struts like CMON people save up and get some decent suspension... do you all care about looking good by lowering that much? no wonder his shocks are f-ing blown
Last edited by petadeer; 01-28-09 at 04:01 AM.
#29
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lol, its funny how even if you DON'T read the rest of the thread, i actually say in my last post that i'm not going to get that 7 and make a beater.....................................lol
it's hard to understand what these cars are worth in the street nowadays without prior experience in buying them or dealing w/ them
rx7 as a daily driver with tune ups/maintenance and parked outside. not gonna treat it that bad by judging the condition of some other 7s on here probably better than some users...
it's hard to understand what these cars are worth in the street nowadays without prior experience in buying them or dealing w/ them
rx7 as a daily driver with tune ups/maintenance and parked outside. not gonna treat it that bad by judging the condition of some other 7s on here probably better than some users...
#31
All you need to know
Hey Petadeer:
This forum's a flame fest. Just mention putting a renesis in an FC or pulsestar spark plugs. Stand back and watch the flames.
Basically, all you need to know is this: Vert is short for convertible. These are all normally aspirated and very heavy. N/A means normally aspirated. TII is the turbo charged version. All other designations relate to trim levels or different suspension set ups on a N/A. After 20 years, these are all pretty much meaningless as the parts that made the different designations meaningful have already worn out.
You will also see S4 and S5 designations. Later FCs had a more advanced engine that made more horsepower.
As far as rotary reliability, the rotary has a handful of moving parts. A piston engine dozens. If you change the oil frequently, you shouldn't have any more problems than a piston engine with equal mileage.
Surf on Aaroncake. He did a great write up on what to look for when buying an FC. I used it and got a beauty.
You won't understand what it's all about until you drive your FC. After that, you won't want to drive anything else. Although, if what you want to do is autocross, be sure to get a turbo. The N/As lack low end torque and probably won't suit you well for racing at low speeds. But over 7,000 RPM ... wow!
Iamsisyphus
This forum's a flame fest. Just mention putting a renesis in an FC or pulsestar spark plugs. Stand back and watch the flames.
Basically, all you need to know is this: Vert is short for convertible. These are all normally aspirated and very heavy. N/A means normally aspirated. TII is the turbo charged version. All other designations relate to trim levels or different suspension set ups on a N/A. After 20 years, these are all pretty much meaningless as the parts that made the different designations meaningful have already worn out.
You will also see S4 and S5 designations. Later FCs had a more advanced engine that made more horsepower.
As far as rotary reliability, the rotary has a handful of moving parts. A piston engine dozens. If you change the oil frequently, you shouldn't have any more problems than a piston engine with equal mileage.
Surf on Aaroncake. He did a great write up on what to look for when buying an FC. I used it and got a beauty.
You won't understand what it's all about until you drive your FC. After that, you won't want to drive anything else. Although, if what you want to do is autocross, be sure to get a turbo. The N/As lack low end torque and probably won't suit you well for racing at low speeds. But over 7,000 RPM ... wow!
Iamsisyphus
#32
Sit and Spin
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Latrobe, Pa
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Hey Petadeer:
This forum's a flame fest. Just mention putting a renesis in an FC or pulsestar spark plugs. Stand back and watch the flames.
Basically, all you need to know is this: Vert is short for convertible. These are all normally aspirated and very heavy. N/A means normally aspirated. TII is the turbo charged version. All other designations relate to trim levels or different suspension set ups on a N/A. After 20 years, these are all pretty much meaningless as the parts that made the different designations meaningful have already worn out.
You will also see S4 and S5 designations. Later FCs had a more advanced engine that made more horsepower.
As far as rotary reliability, the rotary has a handful of moving parts. A piston engine dozens. If you change the oil frequently, you shouldn't have any more problems than a piston engine with equal mileage.
Surf on Aaroncake. He did a great write up on what to look for when buying an FC. I used it and got a beauty.
You won't understand what it's all about until you drive your FC. After that, you won't want to drive anything else. Although, if what you want to do is autocross, be sure to get a turbo. The N/As lack low end torque and probably won't suit you well for racing at low speeds. But over 7,000 RPM ... wow!
Iamsisyphus
This forum's a flame fest. Just mention putting a renesis in an FC or pulsestar spark plugs. Stand back and watch the flames.
Basically, all you need to know is this: Vert is short for convertible. These are all normally aspirated and very heavy. N/A means normally aspirated. TII is the turbo charged version. All other designations relate to trim levels or different suspension set ups on a N/A. After 20 years, these are all pretty much meaningless as the parts that made the different designations meaningful have already worn out.
You will also see S4 and S5 designations. Later FCs had a more advanced engine that made more horsepower.
As far as rotary reliability, the rotary has a handful of moving parts. A piston engine dozens. If you change the oil frequently, you shouldn't have any more problems than a piston engine with equal mileage.
Surf on Aaroncake. He did a great write up on what to look for when buying an FC. I used it and got a beauty.
You won't understand what it's all about until you drive your FC. After that, you won't want to drive anything else. Although, if what you want to do is autocross, be sure to get a turbo. The N/As lack low end torque and probably won't suit you well for racing at low speeds. But over 7,000 RPM ... wow!
Iamsisyphus
#33
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Look, i HAVE read the faq! or at least the parts containing the answers i was seeking so far. by the time iamasysphus told me the answers to the differences between vert, s4, s5, i already knew that they were different trims, etc.
how is the faq gonna tell me if that last guy i posted about is ripping people off at his current asking price or not? its a matter of opinion, too
The only thing I don't get is why turbo would beat the N/A in low end torque and is better fitted for autox. Wouldn't the turbo be less desireable as it wouldn't have time to spool in a typical autox course?
but let me guess... go read the faq
and wvumtnbkrasdfsaf, whatever your name is supposed to be, its still the 1st month of 2009. i'm sure there'll be worse to come =)
what you CAN't get from the fact is a feel for the worth of these cars. I can't even look it up on KBB because most of the fcs for sale are pre-1989. but thanks for the aaroncake suggestion, i will search up this thread
how is the faq gonna tell me if that last guy i posted about is ripping people off at his current asking price or not? its a matter of opinion, too
The only thing I don't get is why turbo would beat the N/A in low end torque and is better fitted for autox. Wouldn't the turbo be less desireable as it wouldn't have time to spool in a typical autox course?
but let me guess... go read the faq
and wvumtnbkrasdfsaf, whatever your name is supposed to be, its still the 1st month of 2009. i'm sure there'll be worse to come =)
what you CAN't get from the fact is a feel for the worth of these cars. I can't even look it up on KBB because most of the fcs for sale are pre-1989. but thanks for the aaroncake suggestion, i will search up this thread
#34
Zoom Zoom
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KBB sucks, NADA is your friend. And there is no such thing as a timing belt or chain on a rotary. N/As do have more low end, but less power higher up on the powerband. I'm no expert on turbos, but thats how I've always understood it. I think that guy has it backwards.
Anyways, if you've read this crap you should know by now that an RX7 isn't a beater or a DD, it isn't a car you can just buy and throw around. An RX7 is a commitment and a lifestyle.
Anyways, if you've read this crap you should know by now that an RX7 isn't a beater or a DD, it isn't a car you can just buy and throw around. An RX7 is a commitment and a lifestyle.
#35
Rotarymember
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I agree! After she looked at my from across the way I knew it was all over. I'd been had, she chose me. I now have an appreciation of the simplicity and thought that was put int all Mazdas. They definitly have their own style. Like your Dad having been in WW2 would not approve of you dating an oriental girl but, shes so cute! Mag
#36
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https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-good-fc-816373/
how the hell is this different from my thread?????????????
got good responses, lol
how the hell is this different from my thread?????????????
got good responses, lol
#37
Rotorhead
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=816373
how the hell is this different from my thread?????????????
how the hell is this different from my thread?????????????
You asked for information about trim levels which is already covered in the Stickies. Also, your attitude came off as negative, while his was positive.
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