Thanks thats the website i needed, but what about my injectors do i need new ones? would 2 Ohms stop them from working?

 

Really could use an answer to this question

 

No. I'd say that was the resistance in the meter leads or something like that. If you still have the intake off, then get the meter out and see if there's batt voltage on one of the two wires at each injector elect plug. Key to ON. If all the injectors read about the same, then I'd say no problem and forget it.

Got batt voltage there? Good. Then with key to ON, go pull the elect plug off the boost sensor. See if there is 4.5 to 5vdc on the BROWN/WHITE wire. It must be there. Also see if there is batt voltage on the BLACK/WHITE wire.

EDIT: I re-read the beginning of this thread. You have spark, so the 4.5-5vdc probably exists on the boost sensor plug. So do this. Key to ON. Pull the CAS out and twirl its bottom gear and listen for the injectors clicking or just look at the injectors with the fuel rail pulled up. Just don't activate the fuel pump. When you spin the CAS bottom gear the injectors should operate open/shut. You could use a spare CAS for doing this.

I think it's safe to say that if you have spark, then the fuel injectors should also work and the ECU ground HAS to be good.

Later, when everything is connected up, Key to ON, and jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector so the pump runs. Do you hear fuel continuously running in the fuel rails. Should. If not, then things are not plumbed right.

 

My primary injectors are clicking when i spin the CAS but not the secondary injectors, is this normal? Im gonna go finish my work on the grounds and then test the fuel pump.

Thanks Hailers,
Sean

 

Yep, that is normal.

 

Can someone tell me if im stupid? I think these are JSPEC fuel rails, arrows show the flow of fuel i have now, is it set up right?

 

i really hate myself.... ive had the fuel lines switched for a year without figuring it out... i didnt know that On the JDM the regulator and the damper are switched.

a wise, wise man once said this - "There are a few other minor differences (no EGR, etc.) but for the most part the only big deal is the fuel rail issue. That trips a lot of people up wondering why their car won't start after a swap." -Aaron Cake

 

did i ask you that a while ago on AIM? so is it running now?

 

You don't need this info now, but if the primarys clicked when you spun the CAS, then you have no gnd problem as far as the spark and fuel injectors go.

 

Yea you did ask me that but i was so sure that i had it right... i am a dumb ***...
its still not running it started for like 45 seconds and a **** load of smoke flooded my garage and it died, but the battery was worn down after that, so i couldn't reattempt. also it was acting strange when i tried to start it up. my dash lights and everything kept flickering on and off, and it felt abnormally jerky. any ideas? gonna try again tomorrow with a recharged battery.

 

I thought I posted that the fuel lines were reversed...... Damn... Let me check back a page... YEp i remember posting that...

Glad you got it running.. I posted that because I have done about 6 J-spec swaps...

 

Yeah, I did say that......

 

you me

I apologize for being an idiot