Im still having problems with getting my engine running and people to respond to my posts, i feel like F&*%ing Brian here, but here we go

I have Spark, Air, and my Fuel Pump is working.
Ive checked Compression and its around 90 for both rotors.
this would mean my injectors are not firing but they were just cleaned and flowtested.
i dont exactly understand the FSM and its directions for checking the fuel sensor in the AFM so if anyone could better explain that it would be appreciated.

is there anyway i could rewire the injectors straight from the ECU
fast and accurate info would be sweet, i only have 3 weeks till college starts!

-Sean Bledsoe

 

Why not just pull the plugs and crank, if fuel spits out of the spark holes then the injectors are working. Make sure all your fuses are in when you do this.

 

Sorry forgot to mention that i already did that and no fuel came through, but the injectors were just cleaned and flow tested so what the heck is going on?
what about my other questions?

 

You might search for a post by HAILERS (or HAILER2 I always get those guys confused) where he talked about disconnecting the coils, pulling out the CAS, turning the car to on and then slowly turning the shaft on the CAS. You should be able to hear the injectors clicking open and close.

If you can hear them, you have one trouble shooting path to explore, if you can't, you have another.

 

did you test the AFM?(the AFM a fuel pump switch in it)

so the fuel pump is working ?(undo the hose does fuel come out with the key on)

 

yea like i said the fuel pump works so im getting fuel when turned to on, i also said that i was confused on how to test the AFM.(FSM directions are confusing)

and vr any idea what that thred was called?

-Sean

 

anyone?

 

AFM is not used for starting UNTIL the rpms get over 500rpm. You can disconnect it and the car should start.

 

i dont think the afm is the problem i think its the wiring i just need to know if there is anything else that would stop it from spraying fuel!! is there any way to rewire the injectors Hailers?

 

he is prob just gonna tell you to do the light probe thing again..sorry man im at a loss like i said didnt know how to do it..its not the injecters its the actual harness part not telling them to spray which is cas related i think because they all work in sequal to keep everything in line..best of luck to ya man sorry i cant help

 

hey man dont worry about it hah i was going to buy a new harness to fix it i just wanted to make sure i wasnt blowing money away.

 

You just put a 88 turbo in the non turbo car????? Used the Turbo harness on the engine?

No don't run new wires.

 

You need to pull the small plug off the ECU. Check the LIGHT GREEN, LIGHT GREEN/WHITE, LIGHT GREEN/BLACK, LIGHT GREEN/RED wires for having batt voltage with the key to ON. You can just pull that plug off and check those wires in the connector with the plug off the ECU.

Or buy a LED from radio shack. Put one LED wire(RED one) in the back of the small plugs black/white wire and the other LED wire into the back of either primary injector wire in the small plug. Then try to start the engine. The LED should flash if the ECU is pulsing a gnd to the fuel injector. This works only with primary injector wires. Plug has to be attached to the ECU for this to work.

Only use a LED and nothing else. NO TEST light stuff, spare light bulbs etc. Picture of a LED shown in the attached jpg.

 

Thanks for the help Hailers i followed your advice and did the led test and lets just say im in the dark, does this confirm that its the harness? or is it the injectors.

 

I guess that your fuel lines are reversed.

 

nope

 

What were the results??? If the LED flashes, then the wiring is good and the ECU is good.

Primary wires are the LIGHT GREEEN wire and the light green/black wire.

You might think about RRTEK's remark about fuel lines on backwards. Pull the return line off the engine. Jumper the fuel pump check connector. Key to ON only. Fuel should flow from the hard line on the engine where the Return line was connected if things are plumbed right.

 

I think the "Im in the dark" was a joke/hint that no LED's flashed lol

 

already tested fuel pump and switched fuel lines was the first thing i checked. and rrtec i ment no disrespect.

and sorry hailers i should have just been clear about it, lol when i said i was "in the dark" i ment it didnt flash. it was working tho i tested that and made sure it was connected to the right wires

i figured its the wiring after the test anyways so i ordered a new harness and i am picking it up today from ray.

Thanks Everyone,
Sean

 

hailers i wasnt able to get ahold of the new harness!!!
also i just found out that the bolt hole i had the harness grounded to was lose & stripped.

I will send pics to confirm it was even the right spot for the harness to be grounded.

Im almost positive this would stop the injectors from spraying

 

Alright im home from school now, so i can work on the car!!!

my new problem is that my brand new battery keeps going dead.
is it a decent guess to say, bad grounds? if so, what is the link to that great write-up on locaton/up-keep of all grounds? one of the forum admin did the wrte-up.

Thanks,
Sean

 

get the alternator tested.

and yes i would check all the grounds.

 

the car is not running at the moment so the battery is draining while the car is off, and the alternator is brand new. do you know the link to that wrie-up? think hailers or ice mark made it.

 

Well my injectors wont spray fuel so i took the top off to check them. Unfortunatly, all 4 are reading 18.2ohms when they should be reading 12-16ohms according to the FSM. Is two ohms really stoping them from spraying? is this why i cant get my car to run?

 

http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm