Well, a picture is worth a thousand words so take a look at the "injector" attachment...

Can that be rebuilt by one of those clean/rebuild companies? Should I send in all my injectors while I'm at it? (And if that's not an injector, because I am really assuming it is just from theory of how things work, then smack me haha)

And next we have... a fuel line? I'm not too sure what it's for. But... it's broken. BRITTLE AS A MOTHER!! I barely did anything to it... are you not supposed to remove those tubes??? I didn't realize that I didn't HAVE to remove it to get that part off... so I didn't remove the other one.

If they're that brittle shouldn't I replace ALL of them anyway? How should I go about doing that?

Other than that... this engine is freakin FILTHY. And all the gaskets are TOAST. Check out the other picture to see how far I am.

I seriously can't understand how my car ran so well... it was running great, pulling strong...? =/ Good thing I rebuilt now instead of later huh?

--Gary

 

Yes the injector can be fixed.

The line you broke is an oil line, go find a replacement from a junkyard. There's a group that makes SSlines, but i don't remember who it was. Or you can do like i do, rip it all out and just use premix.

 

The injector peice that is cracked is called the pintel cap. You are supposed to get new ones when you clean/rebuild injectors so yes send those out.

The second pic is of an oil line. Rx-7s use oil injection to maintain a good seal and lubricate the apex seals. You broken one. I would say replace all of them if you have an S5 OR pre-mix if you have an S4 and block the oil injection system all together.

 

Any idea of where I can buy replacements that will last a long time? Kinda small to be making SS lines out of, but if they make them, and the price compares with the $25/ pair of lines (gotta be KIDDING me Mazdatrix!!) I'd have to pay to replace them... much more worth it since they can be reused at least.

BTW this is an S5 N/A.

EDIT: Well well well... look what eBay found me... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...927160328&rd=1

--Gary

 

1 is a broken pintle cap. No big deal, they should be replaced upon cleaning.

2 is a broken oil metering line. You take the big 19mm hex injector loose, and the line comes loose. The line does NOT come of the fitting thats under the injector. This was your mistake. They are pretty brittle and can even be broken when new, just handle them carefully. I never replace them, the only need to replace them comes when hands have touched them...they dont break on their own. I have a shelf of used ones if you need.

3 looks normal to me for an engine over 75k miles. This thing is 15 years old, you know. You have road dust, water, sand, etc. Then you have insects and the like. People are bound to spill oil during oilchanges, and you have front cover leaks, OMP leaks, front and rear main seal leaks, and oilpan leaks, all normal over time. And belt dust. So yes, engines get dirty...this is normal.

 

I'm ordering the SS lines... half because in a rush I already did it so that they could ship both my engine stand adapter AND the lines in the same package... and half because I do feel better about having SS lines for it since one breaking could be the end of the engine.

Too bad though since you've got some Kevin haha, now I almost feel it's a complete waste of 90$... and definately my bad on removal.. live and learn... and hopefully learn enough to stop breaking things before my bank account is completely drained... lol. (I have about 200$ in excess for things like this... but I'm using credit cards to pay for some things, so I still have cash just in case I REALLY need it)

Thanks for your help guys, one more question... where can I get good injector cleaning for a good price?

--Gary

 

I used Marren fuel injection, for about $25 per injector. They even called me and pointed out when I sent in my injectors that my primaries were the wrong impedence. It's best to have all your injectors cleaned and balanced because you want them flowing the same rate of fuel.

 

CruzinPerformance seems to be a favorite of the guys. He did mine, too, but wasn't able to "unstick" one of them, which means all he does is ultrasonically clean them & flow test them, then throw new o-rings & grommets on 'em.

 

Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one, attaching a few pics of what it looked like when I finished today. Good progress as far as I'm concerned haha...

I mostly stopped because I don't have something to get on that 2 1/8" nut... figure I have to buy one tomorrow that will fit onto our impact gun... hopefully that works.

I'll hit the store, and I'm going to borrow a Pilot Bearing Puller while I'm there. Would kragen have a flywheel stopper for rent? Or is that something I need to get myself? Anyone have any ideas on keeping it still while I'm taking the bolt off?

Tomorrow I'll be doing this stuff... hopefully... that nut stops basically all my progress! Well... and work... I have to go to work. =/ Grrr.

--Gary

 

Looks like an average 100k+ mile block to me...in fact, a bit cleaner than most I see. You still have some stuff to remove before you start prepping for the rebuild. You want EVERYTHING off the irons and housings before you clean and paint.

 

Better to paint it now, before pulling it apart, or after?

I was going to paint it all black... but I've got this really cool idea for a color I'd love... I just gotta see if they have it at Kragen in that spray high-temp paint... metallic dark red is kinda what I'm thinking.

Easier to do the whole block before disassembling it or after? I was just gonna rebuild it, clean each part individually, put it back together and then paint it before starting to build it back up to long block.

--Gary

 

can you direct me to where the SS lines are ... i am VERY interested in this... thanks in advance
chrisopher

 

I gotta ask, why do you have on latex gloves? It's not going to bite...

 

You paint while it is apart...one part at a time. You mask off the mating surfaces of each housing, so you only get paint on the outside. You wouldnt want to paint the entire block assembled the same color, it'd look...less cool.

 

Do yourself a favor and check out http://www.witchhunter.com/index.htm for your injector service. I met the guy in person and had him do mine the other day. Excellent service and price. Highly recommended.

 

"I gotta ask, why do you have on latex gloves? It's not going to bite... "

Its to protect his engine from getting blood stains...

 

Hahaha... so true.

Thanks for the link HeffBoost, those are the guys I heard about a while ago and I've heard really good things about them, so I'll go with them.

cwsttu: Search on eBay for SS oil metering lines or look under the seller "scalliwag_performance", he also sells the engine stand adapters.

Well, time to go to the store to find a 2 1/8" socket hahah... so any tips on how I can hold this thing still while I'm breaking it free? I'm hoping the impact gun, along with somethings wedged on the flywheel will be sufficient...

Oh and I have access to an electric and an air impact... which one you think I need to use?

--Gary