Engine tear down, emissions plates installation, and more...
They look like big brass wheels with a little notch cut into them for the throttle and cruise cables, they go on the posts on the side of the throttle body. The same linkage on the front side of the engine is what operates the TPS, and the OMP for S4 cars.
Well, more like 1/3 of a brass wheel, I guess. If you hit up the 2nd Gen Archives and look at the thread on "Disassembling and Painting Throttle Body (or TB, can't remember)" then it's got some real nice pictures that you'll be looking at very carefully if you just happened to toss all those neat doodads in a box somewhere.
Well, more like 1/3 of a brass wheel, I guess. If you hit up the 2nd Gen Archives and look at the thread on "Disassembling and Painting Throttle Body (or TB, can't remember)" then it's got some real nice pictures that you'll be looking at very carefully if you just happened to toss all those neat doodads in a box somewhere.
I vouch for keeping the BAC on the car. I have mine removed (going to put it back on asap) and it's a pain. It's always embarassing when you're backing into a parking spot, have the wheel turned all the way, and stall...
Yeah alot of people dont like removing the aux port's and well alot of people just like saying that. To me the slight-almost unoticable loss in bottom end is considerably more worth the great high end you acheive. But make it worth it and port your UIM and LIM port them good! porting those well will be your best bet with removed aux port's.
Also consider this...remove the aux rod's and all hardware from the LIM and seal it off with j-b weld or something not corroded by oil or gas. That way you have an unobstructed area for air to flow through. On my car which see's high rev's almost constantly that setup worked good for me. And since i dont need bottom end the loss doesnt matter.
See the thing is on a street driven car most people want that little bit extra TQ.And seeing how it's a loss right off the bat its considered bad. But if your building something that you want to have good top end like 4.5k-8k then try it.Then think about how you can increase the air flow through the manifold's.After alittle while you will have one hell of a fun NA to drive around.
Anyway i hope you have alot of fun working and learning on your car!
Also consider this...remove the aux rod's and all hardware from the LIM and seal it off with j-b weld or something not corroded by oil or gas. That way you have an unobstructed area for air to flow through. On my car which see's high rev's almost constantly that setup worked good for me. And since i dont need bottom end the loss doesnt matter.
See the thing is on a street driven car most people want that little bit extra TQ.And seeing how it's a loss right off the bat its considered bad. But if your building something that you want to have good top end like 4.5k-8k then try it.Then think about how you can increase the air flow through the manifold's.After alittle while you will have one hell of a fun NA to drive around.
Anyway i hope you have alot of fun working and learning on your car!
Yea, see, I've got those linkages on my TB still. The problem is that the cables are just hanging out there lose and aren't tight. Isn't there other places the cables connect to? I know for sure the throttle cable doesn't just go from the firewall to the TB wheel, there's gotta be something else it attaches to. Same goes for the cruise control. Where else do they connect?
This following quoted post makes baby Jesus sad.
You gain nothing by removing the auxilliary port sleeves. All you do is hurt yourself.
The loss in bottem end (torque), is more than "slightly" noticable.
UIM and LIM porting aren't particularly useful in an N/A. Waste of time IMO.
JB weld?
Just because it doesn't matter for you, doesn't mean it doesn't matter for him. From what I gather, he has a daily driver. As someone with their 5/6th ports unfunctioning, it sucks.
I'll just repeat what I said earlier.
You gain nothing by removing the auxilliary port sleeves. All you do is hurt yourself.
The loss in bottem end (torque), is more than "slightly" noticable.
UIM and LIM porting aren't particularly useful in an N/A. Waste of time IMO.
Originally Posted by rotorman85
Yeah alot of people dont like removing the aux port's and well alot of people just like saying that. To me the slight-almost unoticable loss in bottom end is considerably more worth the great high end you acheive. But make it worth it and port your UIM and LIM port them good! porting those well will be your best bet with removed aux port's.
The loss in bottem end (torque), is more than "slightly" noticable.
UIM and LIM porting aren't particularly useful in an N/A. Waste of time IMO.
Originally Posted by rotorman85
Also consider this...remove the aux rod's and all hardware from the LIM and seal it off with j-b weld or something not corroded by oil or gas. That way you have an unobstructed area for air to flow through. On my car which see's high rev's almost constantly that setup worked good for me. And since i dont need bottom end the loss doesnt matter.
Just because it doesn't matter for you, doesn't mean it doesn't matter for him. From what I gather, he has a daily driver. As someone with their 5/6th ports unfunctioning, it sucks.
Originally Posted by rotorman85
See the thing is on a street driven car most people want that little bit extra TQ.And seeing how it's a loss right off the bat its considered bad. But if your building something that you want to have good top end like 4.5k-8k then try it.Then think about how you can increase the air flow through the manifold's.After alittle while you will have one hell of a fun NA to drive around.
Anyway i hope you have alot of fun working and learning on your car!
Anyway i hope you have alot of fun working and learning on your car!
You gain nothing by removing the auxilliary port sleeves. All you do is hurt yourself.
The loss in bottem end (torque), is more than "slightly" noticable.
UIM and LIM porting aren't particularly useful in an N/A. Waste of time IMO.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
What do the brackets look like exactly? What were they attached to? I can't seem to find them sitting on my bench. Could anyone get me pictures?
Download it from the FAQ and it will answer all of these sorts of questions...As for those debating the aux port removal: Whatever. It's your car, do whatever you want to it. Just don't try and sell it in it's hacked up state and don't make claims that you cannot back up with dyno graphs. Such graphs HAVE been posted here before of a car pre and post removal that shows NO high end gain and the MASSIVE torque reduction. And I also make these comments out of personal experience.
I say we put an end to the arguments about the 5th and 6th ports and I'll let you know how it goes once I have the car running again. No sense in arguing about them until I actually fire the car up and run it and see how it goes.
It may be nearly pointless to port the manifolds on an N/A, but if you've got spare time, why not? Not like it's going to hurt you.
I looked through the FSM, and the pictures aren't detailed enough to actually see where else the throttle cable and cruise cable actually connect to. All I need is a couple simple pictures. The throttle cable looks like it hooks up to a bracket somewhere on the dynamic chamber to hold it in place, but I'm not sure about the CC. Maybe it hooked up to the thermowax somewhere? That's all I need pictures of. I've got them hooked up to the actual wheels on the TB, that's not the problem. The problem is figuring out what holds them in place. If I could just get some simple pictures of where they are anchored to and the parts they connect to that would be great. Thanks guys.
It may be nearly pointless to port the manifolds on an N/A, but if you've got spare time, why not? Not like it's going to hurt you.
I looked through the FSM, and the pictures aren't detailed enough to actually see where else the throttle cable and cruise cable actually connect to. All I need is a couple simple pictures. The throttle cable looks like it hooks up to a bracket somewhere on the dynamic chamber to hold it in place, but I'm not sure about the CC. Maybe it hooked up to the thermowax somewhere? That's all I need pictures of. I've got them hooked up to the actual wheels on the TB, that's not the problem. The problem is figuring out what holds them in place. If I could just get some simple pictures of where they are anchored to and the parts they connect to that would be great. Thanks guys.
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
The problem is figuring out what holds them in place. If I could just get some simple pictures of where they are anchored to and the parts they connect to that would be great. Thanks guys. 

I can't help with the cruise part, because I've swapped the engine 3 times in the last 8 months, and the cruise control and A/C equipment are just going to wait until after I've made sure it'll run for more than 2 months at a time.
Yea, the CC ain't a huge deal right now either, it's not like it's required. I would just like to be able to hook up the throttle cable at least. That would be great if you could get me some pictures, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I don't have a stock throttle body handy. Have you considered checking out Ted's and Rotary Resurrection's pages for some pictures? I think both those sites cover the throttle body mod.
Yea, I looked over those sites. They don't have the throttle cables still hooked up to the car, nor do they still have the throttle brackets on them still. They start with the TB already off the car. And I would really appreciate it if you could get me those pictures.
I was doing some looking around, and so far the only other mods I can find are porting the manifolds, grounding write-up, advance the timing slightly, and fuel pump cut-off switch. Is there anything else you guys can think of? So far I haven't seen anything else.
I was doing some looking around, and so far the only other mods I can find are porting the manifolds, grounding write-up, advance the timing slightly, and fuel pump cut-off switch. Is there anything else you guys can think of? So far I haven't seen anything else.
Last edited by Ice_Wolf; Sep 21, 2006 at 09:16 AM.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I hope this is a track only car, because no good can come from removing the BAC, cold start system and auxillary port actuators. At the very least put those items back on. You'll thank me because you will gain back all the low end you lost removing the ports, and the car will now idle when cool.
I forgot again
But here's a pic from an engine bay picture thread - if you look to the back of this dude's weird expansion chamber, you can see the brass connector thing that holds the throttle body. Other than not looking like my expansion chamber at all, this is where it goes.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ngine+bay+pics
But here's a pic from an engine bay picture thread - if you look to the back of this dude's weird expansion chamber, you can see the brass connector thing that holds the throttle body. Other than not looking like my expansion chamber at all, this is where it goes.https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ngine+bay+pics
Alright, that helps a lot. For some reason, I'm missing that bracket Looks like another part I'll just have to order.
I was doing some looking around, and so far the only other mods I can find are porting the manifolds, grounding write-up, advance the timing slightly, and that's all I could find for engine mods. Is there anything else you guys can think of?
I was doing some looking around, and so far the only other mods I can find are porting the manifolds, grounding write-up, advance the timing slightly, and that's all I could find for engine mods. Is there anything else you guys can think of?
Im not sure if youve removed your acv or smog pump but if you have you might consider a dual alternator pulley. A good set of plug wires like magnacore will insure you have good spark and no breakup. Im not sure if you have seen this yet but its pretty cool. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/89-intake-swap-before-after-dyno-results-95492/
Also Icemark sell's a resistor that you splice into your maf sensor you might want to check out. Umm Theres the TB mod also if you want to play around with that.
Oh and i daily drove my car until the engine let go at 205k miles..so do what your doing and form your own opinion without the influence of NA bashing...
And to MY5ABABY good job on making yourself look like an idiot.
Also Icemark sell's a resistor that you splice into your maf sensor you might want to check out. Umm Theres the TB mod also if you want to play around with that.
Oh and i daily drove my car until the engine let go at 205k miles..so do what your doing and form your own opinion without the influence of NA bashing...
And to MY5ABABY good job on making yourself look like an idiot.
Last edited by KillaKitiie; Sep 23, 2006 at 03:46 AM.
Yea, I've got the ACV and air pump removed along with the air relief silencer. I've also got the dual alt pully with 2 Goodyear Gatorback belts. I've also done the TB already, so that's a go too. I've got brand new NGK OEM plug wires on my car because I don't want to spend 90 dollars on a set that won't be used for more than a year or so. I'll send Icemark a PM about that resisistor. I'll look into doing that S5 intake swap. Anything else?
Any other mods you guys can think of that I should do besides porting the manifolds, grounding write-up, advance the timing slightly, putting the resistor in the MAF, fuel pump cut-off swtich, or switching to a S5 intake setup?


