So I finally got my engine from Punxy, PA to Palmyra, PA and got some pics of what happened. This is the engine from the vert that blew up after I crossed the MD line with it (after many tickets for all kinds of BS).

Anyways, so it looks like the rear rotor got fucked up something fierce by something. I'm not sure what it was or how it happened. I have a funny feeling the E-shaft may be pretty screwed too. Looks like there's alot of lips on it.

The housingings however, seem to be in decent shape considering all the apex seals on the front rotor were broken. The rear rotor is the one that looks beat to **** and has the huge scuff mark. All the apex seals on that rotor looked mint. The front rotor's side seals were a bitch to get out. Most of them broke off inside and i had a hard time getting them out. The rear rotor's side seals came out quite easily.

Attached are pics and more pics. Let me know what you think the condition is and what I need to buy, other than the rebuild kit of course.

 

more

 

Above, the timing housing looks like it was cracking...

 

Also, as shown above.. there was a shitload of copper bits inside the oil pan and falling out of the engine as I took it apart. When I took out the really long bolts to dissasemble the engine, antifreeze came out with the first 3 or 4 I took out. Top left four bolts when your looking at the engine from the back.

 

All those copper shavings say that you spun a bearing(s). Can you feel any grooves cut into the bearing mating surfaces on the eccentric shaft? Sometimes when a bearing goes out, it will take the eccentric shaft with it.

 

There are grooves all over the E-shaft... so yea, I would say it's probably screwed. I'm in the process of soaking all the parts in Power Purple and cleaning them to get a better idea of the damage.

Is that rotor reusable or should I junk it?

 

That's normal unless you can confirm oil is leaking *through* it?
Those "cracks" are casting imperfections.


-Ted

 

That's what it looks like when the engine spun a bearing(s).

Most of the tension bolts are normally bathed in coolant.
The top left most tension bolt is normally bathed in oil.
The bottom right is normally cruddy from all the heat from the exhaust.
The bottom left should come out CLEAN!


-Ted

 

BTW, the rotor with big scuff mark and chip in the dip is the same as the one with the big chip in the center.

So I'm assuming the diagnosis is replace the E-shaft, how much do those run? and probably replace this rotor? Can I use S5 rotors instead of S4 rotors if I buy 2 rotors? Can I still use my S4 housings with S5 rotors? What kind of route do I have to take with the rebuild kit if I got S5 rotors with S4 housings (if it is even possible)?

 

I would recommend you get a good, used unit.
Try the 2nd gen parts for sale section in here.
If you don't see one, just post a "wanted" ad for one.
These things are not in high demand, and typical price is like $50.
The big problem is shipping costs, as it's pretty damn heavy; finding one local to you is worth it to save on shipping costs.


Is the damage isolated to just the "face"?
Or does it nick the apex seal grooves?


No, not unless you change the counterweight(s) and / or flywheel (built in counterweight).
The rotors are different weights, and they have their own special set of counterweights / flywheels.


Yes, but see above about changing rotors.


Nothing changes with the exception of the counterweight(s) / flywheel.


-Ted

 

I just sent one from louisiana to tampa florida yesterday and it came to 11 bucks at ups just for a referance on how much it costs to ship.

 

The chips are on the rotor face, apex and side seal areas look alrite tho. What about that chip where the E-shaft goes through? Is that dangerous?

I plan to put in a lightweight flywheel anyways (thus having to get a counterweight)... so... what gains would I see by putting S5 rotors instead of S4? The only difference between the two rotors is weight, right?

 

As long as the damage is away from the apex seal grooves and the side seal grooves, it's okay to reuse it...in my book.


With all that copper crap in the oil pan, I would highly recommend you change all the bearings - both rotor and both stat gear bearings.
The bearings are relatively cheap, and you need to find someone (a machine shop?) locally to press out the old ones and press in the new ones.


The weights are different, and the compression ratio is raised.
You might feel a little bit more power across the board going with the S5 NA rotors.


-Ted