rustbucket

iTrader: (1)

i swapped out my s4 engine and put a another engine in (my first time), i am fairly sure i replugged in all necessary wires and the ecu plugs, also followed the emissions removal from "RotRes" but my problem is the only sign of life from the car is a beeping rear defrost and the wipers work, i have no dash lights, no flip up control no headlights no start nothing.

i tried boosting but nothing, i grounded the negative battery terminal to the stru tower but nothing, anything crucial i could have missed to get no response at all???

rustbucket

iTrader: (1)

and i also replaced the 80 amp male main fuse and checked the rest of the main fuses

J's fc

iTrader: (1)

you may want to double check your electrical conections, and also check and see if you got connected your main relay. And go from thier,

rustbucket

iTrader: (1)

i rerouted a ground from the neg terminal to the block and now am getting it to turn, but no ignitio, a concern right now is why none of my dsh works anyone have experience that can help??

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Just one quick thing please don't tell me you were having this problem and this is why you swapped the engine. Because if so I want your "broken" engine.

Did you check you fuses like the guy said.

Do you have the power cable hooked up to the fuse box from the battery? That's more than likely it judging by the limited info you gave. You battery needs to be grounded to the engine and the chassis btw not just the engine or just the chassis. You probably don't have teh bolt in the factory ground locatioon near the driver's side brake line or something obvious that you missed. post if you get more progress

rustbucket

iTrader: (1)

hahaha no my old motor did blow up,

do you mean power right to he main fuse box under the hood or the one by the drivers peddles??

79seven

Recheck CAS plug
ALL grounds
5 plug in tight from wire harness under dash
pressure sensor plug
Alt. plug
ANY and ALL electical connections
closely recheck entire procedure you used and backtrack

I just did a swap myself last weekend.
I followed Kevin's write up on engine removal, and it worked great for me.
I also did the emissions removal, took my about an hour to get a good idle
(was by myself) runs good though.
I'm running, but having a cooling issue, but its the DEVIL doing it im convinced, I have another thread open on that.

HAILERS

Let's be REAL clear on what goes where and why. The battery has two posts. One is positive and one negative.

The positive runs directly to a post on the starter solenoid.

The negative runs directly to the LONG bolt on the starter and also has a branch off it that goes below the left strut tower. You can connect that negative cable to any of the other bolts that hold the transmission to the engine, but the original place was the long starter bolt, and it has to be secure. That negative cable is the main ground for everything on the car/chassis.

Lack of spark could be the ENGINE fuse in the interior blown. It powers the MAIN RELAY and the Circuit Opening Relay (which powers the fuel pump in turn).

If your fuel pump runs with the key to ON, and the fuel pump check connector jumpered, then the ENGINE fuse is probably good. If you have not done this, then check the ENGINE fuse and then jumper the fuel pump check connector with key to On and see if the pump is running or NOT.

Also look at the jpg attached. It shows the ECU ground ring that is located on top of the engine. That ground is the ground for all the internals of the ECU. Duh. ECU causes spark amoung other things.

rustbucket

iTrader: (1)

there is a second cable running from the positive battery post, does anyone know where this is supposed to connect to??

also does it make a difference which post on the starter the positive cable is connected to? i already attatched the negative to the back or the bell housing instead.

HAILERS

The smaller cable goes to the ENGINE BAY FUSE BOX. It attaches to one of the bolts that holds the MAIN fuse in........if memory serves. It goes to the 10mm size bolt on the FRONT side of the MAIN FUSE. On the back side of the MAIN FUSE is another bolt and cable. THAT cable feeds the ignition key and also goes to the output of the alternator (large alternator output cable). This is shown in the wiring diagrams.

The positive cable goes to the starter solenoid. It goes to the post that ALREADY has a cable on it. THAT cable comes from the internals of the starter motor. NOTHING goes on the other large post of the starter solenoid.

rustbucket

iTrader: (1)

yay! i got it going it was that other power cable not attatched to the engine bay fuse box, thanks alot everyone, my only problem now is i cant keep idle without holding down on the gas, i read i might have that problem after eliminating the emmissions, ill have to read that over again.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Um yeah I told you so n the post up there^ sorry I didn't respond sooner. Glad it's fixed though. Have fun.