All the engine wants to do is stall, wont hold the slightest of idle. It's an S5 N/A.
I took the engine out for clutch job, etc...and when put back together, i was sure to torque every manifold down, cap every vac line other than important ones and connect every important sensor after emmisions mod.

Ive set tps, timing, fast idle & checked bac outside of car for operation. Occasionally it will sputter around 300 rpm for 2 sec before stalling. Only codes i got were:
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxiliary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)

I should have a video of it up later tonight.
I will note that when i took off the afm and shook it, it sounded like it had a piece of metal or something shaking around inside. is this normal??

 

are you sure all your solenoids are connected properly?check the fsm for color codes they are all color coded?all emision related ect variable displacement intake vdi and fuel pressure regulator,hope that helps,

 

I have taken all of those off for the emissions removal. I am pretty sure they are all output devices and shouldnt make engine stall. I am leaning towards a faulty afm from hearing that piece rattling around inside

I checked the fuel pump voltage with key in "on" position and it was incredibly low, like 3v... but it does work/i can hear it from jumping the connector...after a day of sitting i also noticed the pressure in the lines had kind of "bled" away or something.

 

here is the link to the video of it running.... after the last rev, i let off the gas entirely and it just stalled.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pvfLWYhM5A

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pvfLWYhM5A

Also here is another vid of my wreck a little over a year ago. my white s5 n/a is in the woods pretty far...came out of there with a **** ton of mud everywhere and a dented door...gotta love the 7.. and the other dumbass's car was totalled

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FZ5V99lL-w

edit: first video is kind of dark at the engine part, but could a faulty afm cause the stalling??

 

that sucks

 

Threads merged, please only start one thread on a subject, and videos not relating to technical issues, should be posted in the RX-7 Audio & Video section of the board, not in the 2nd gen RX-7 technical section

 

sorry about that, just realized what i did after i put the new thread up

 

Sounds like fuel starvation. Changed the fuel filter and strainer? Cleaned the injectors? How long did the car sit?

 

Fuel filter is brand new, i have yet to check strainer in fuel pump since the screws are at odd angles(best way to get screws out of pump??), injectors were just cleaned by Witchhunter. Car sat for about 8 months and i drained the old gas out (maybe 2 gal) to put new gas in before starting.

Im going to check every voltage with the fuel system and i'll update on what i found.

 

Oh a side note. Does the engine stalling cause any damage? If so how bad? I've stalled my engine my fair share (while learning to drive stick.)

 

Well my car is on jack stands and in neutral, so not that i am aware of in my case. Only "damage" if any, in your case would be in your transmission i believe.

 

Also i forgot to mention, since the edit button left, that when i accidentally started it without the AFM plugged in, it was only running on one rotor... while emitting tons of smoke.
Could that help me diagnose this or does it do me no good?

 

Update: With the key to "on" the fuel pump volts were as follows from the connector located on rear shock tower. (with connector unplugged checking female side obviously)
1. From harness side, White wire w/ red stripe(female) connects to BLUE(male) wire going to fuel pump= 1.95v
2. From harness side, White wire w/ green stripe(female) connects to RED(male) wire going to fuel pump= 5.6v.

Now i plugged the connector back in and checked from back of male side.
#1 was the same volts.
#2 dropped to 3.1v.

I also checked the resistance of the TPS. *Note these are in Kilo-ohms.* Factory specs are for Narrow Range (A-B) Closed (.8 to1.2) Full Throttle (4.0 to 6.0)
Full Range(E-D) Closed (.6 to .9) Full Throttle (3.4 to 5.1)

Mine were as follows. Narrow range (A-B): Closed=1.03 Full Throttle= 4.3
Full Range (E-D): Closed=1.34 Full Throttle= 5.13

Could this mean i need a different tps??

My AFM checked out fine with resistance in spec but i went ahead and got another one to see what happens. If nothing, then i'll just resell it.

 

It shouldn't even run without the AFM plugged in, unless you are using a standalone

 

still using factory ecu. Well if it shouldn't have ran, could that point me in the direction of AFM? I am not assuming it is just that, but it could be a culprit. tps also?

If the tps is wacko, could that send a fuel cut signal to ecu when it's not supposed to?

 

Just checked the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay against Factory specs and the only thing that was over was terminals E--F in which the resistance was 1.2ohm. Factory spec. says between .70 and .94 ..... Those two terminals go to the little metal box located behing the bracket.
I am not the brightest with this stuff, but would that need replaced? what would it do to the rest of the circuit?

Also, where is the Circuit Opening Relay?..in relationship to looking at steering wheel. FSM looks like its inside the dash or something.

 

Man, you are barking up so many wrong trees it is scary.

#1 if the fuel pump resistor relay or the circuit opening relay were bad, the fuel pump wouldn't pump anything, and your car would not even start.

 

i have the same problem...
lots of ppl told me it was the TPS so i was lookin around at work and found this..


http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/index.php?pag=13


well im gonna give it a try in the mornnig
hope this works

 

I had a feeling i was and am not trying to by any means. Just trying to rule out any possibility to the stalling right after start up. I am new to the Electrical part of the engine but I've studied and re-studied the mechanical aspect of it.

Icemark, i'm not sure if you have seen the wiring thread i posted, but if you see the last two pics could you tell me whats going on there? Again sorry for the "newbness" with some of this but i don't understand why it stalls.

^ I've set the tps with the led method and it doesnt do anything. checked ohm and full range was out of spec so maybe that.

 

i not sure why it stalls ether but im just trying any posible reason....
i for one am a newbe about elec-engine prob

 

my car is a 1990 s5 and its doing the exactly same thing.

 

Have either of you looked for cracked or broken vacuum lines? My guess is vacuum leak.