Im currently in the process of rebuilding my 88 T-II block.
Im going to Street Port it as well as pin the motor.
Im going to go with the 2 MM Apex seals from Rotary Aviation, along with FD Corner Seals, as well as the master rebuild kit from them as well. My housings are in good shape. I want to build a block thats capable of supporting 350-400 RWHP for a daily driven T-II. So my question is what reliability mods should I do as far as water, and oil mods are concerned ? Also if I am missing anything important please let me now as well. Im open for suggestions, and comments. In other words if you had the money to spend how would you build your dream Turbo II block ? All opinions are greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

Koyo or Fluidyne radiator, greddy or Blitz 1.3 bar radiator cap, redline water wetter, underdrive pulley for water pump, SAFCII, and EBC

 

FC Powah thanks, but im refering to the "engine internals" to withstand that kind of power for a daily driven Turbo II. Im going to go with a MT so I wouldnt need the APEXI SAFC-II.

 

What does having a MT have anything to do with not needing an SAFC? An SAFC is a fuel controller. Viton oil/coolant seals. I think they make those.

 

errrrrr. whats a "MT" Oh...Id like to know about internal reliability for my TII as well.

 

Manual transmission

 

safc? 400rwhp? Little borderline for me...

When he said MT im sure he meant microtech........carb jets in the e-shaft, 90psi OPR....couple I could think of.

 

You can take all the flashing off of the coolant passages, shim the oil pressure regulator. You can go with deep groove rotor bearings. 3 window race bearings, hardend stationary gears. And if you really want so spend some cash, balance/lighten the rotating assembly (rotors, counter weights, e-shaft, etc...). Maybe run a dual oil cooler, wasn't that something special about the 3rd gen R1 package?

 

FD stationary gears. I heard they are hardened so they can take more of a beating.

Everything else you mentioned sounds right to me. A big radiator like mentioned above will Help alost more than some internal mods too.

 

He means microtech, not manual transmission. No need for a piggyback when you have a standalone.

 

Street-port and all stock internals are fine for those power levels. If anything, swap to an S5 rear iron and leave it at that.

 

What about cryo treating? I remember reading about that.

 

Neither of these mods will make the engine more reliable. In fact both could cause the very problems he's trying to avoid.

 

Also ive heard bad things about putting water wetter in the cooling system.

 

Thanks Scathcart thats exactly what I meant to say "Microtech". I just said MT for short, and I get these two fools ranking on me, anyways no big deal.
Scathcart what is exactly the difference between a S4, and a S5 rear iron ?

 

Extra casting around the upper dowel pin area. Under load from cumbustion, the irons flex outward. As the dowel pin is tightly fitted, this flex can actually cause a pair of hairline cracks on either side of the dowel, causing an oil leak. Obviously, as power levels increase, the combustion stress loads increase, and the flex increases.
Its not a very common problem (unless you experience detonation), but it has been known to happen, and the extra casting on the S5 rear irons is cheap insurance at 400rwhp.

I suppose you could consider the hardened stationary gears, but who here has honestly witnessed them breaking under 500bhp?

Forget the oil jets. Its for racign engine making far in excess of 400 hp. It takes significant oiling mods to prevent the low oil pressure at idle associated with the oil jets, and these mods are unnecessary for a street car/weekend warrior. The only oiling mod I would consider worthwhile is perhaps using an FD OPR, but even that I question for only 350-400hp.

Cryo treating is a topic of debate, but I don't recommend it.

 

Cool Scathcart Thanks for you help.

 

Dream motor?
Add another couple housings and rotor - ala 20B.


-Ted

 

very good idea ted.