Finally got my engine started, and am 50 miles into the fresh rebuild by rotary resurrection. It is a 88 TII.

Heres my problem:
right now when i start up the car i can get it to idle at 1500 rpm, but after it gets warm, and i drive it around for 10 miles or so, the idle will surge up to 2000. then it will start jumping up and down around the 2000 mark.

the engine also has a hissing, choo choo, sound around the driver side front corner. closest to the battery. i have checked the vacuum lines all around the engine and havent found any leaks. I have attached a link of a video, maybe you can help me diagnose what noise is.

so three things: noise, surging rpms, and also the engine is shaking a lot.

first video is of engine before i take it out for a drive. the hissing, choo choo sound is faint, kind of hard to hear.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9ZRD3WQ_Oo

second video is after the 10 minute drive and the idle starts surging, and the hissing/choo choo sound is more prominent.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ps_mx8nsG1E

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

This has vaccume leak written all over it. If you think the air noise is comming from that area of the engine than it is likely related to one of the solinoids in that area. If you didn't replace all the vaccume lines during the rebuild than make sure that none of them are cracked since they have a tendency to get hard and crack with age. Also, make sure that none of the nipples have broken off the solinoids since this is known to happen too.

Good Luck.

 

check your TPS then timing. if those clear you have a leak. I hope you used mazda factory gaskets and not a drop of silicone sealant.

 

Idleing that high when warm is not a TPS adjustment. Too much air is getting into the engine. The throttle stop *could* be adjusted to open the butterflies too far, which would also cause the TPS reading to be off, but he would first need to adjust that back to normal before he would get an accurate TPS reading.

As I said before, sounds like a vaccume leak.

Craig

 

Thanks for the help, I too think it should be a vacuum leak but I wanted to confirm and get some ideas from the group to see if i'm missing something. I had already checked for leaks, but i will do it again and focus on the solenoid area for cracks/leaks. I will report back with results.

patrick

 

so I got to work on the car today, and replaced all the vacuum lines and checked for cracked nozzles for the solenoids. the needle is still jumping. any other ideas?

 

are there any other symptoms? hard to start? anything? MIL?

 

other symptoms:
when i first start the car, before it is warm, i need to hold the idle for about a minute before it can idle on its own. i'm assuming thats due to the fresh rebuild and after 1500 miles this will go away, after the engine break in period.

I know the engine is running rich as I can smell it from the exhaust. Ive switched spark plugs just the other day to see if that was an issue.

while i was switching all the vacuum lines from the solenoid area, i took off the oil filler tube and found this yellow gunk build up in the tube.

those are the other things ive noticed.

 

try cleaning the throttle plate see if it helps at all.

 

check your tps, it can't hurt and could be part of the problem

make sure it is at 1k ohm at idle

 

Condensation-oil emulsion. Very common and not a problem. Usually caused by not bringing the engine up to full operating temperature for several runs. It will disappear when you give the car a good run. Good luck with your main problem.

 

How do you adjust the TPS? Everyone says adjust it, but I can't find instructions on how to adjust it.

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html