DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Hi, I need some help on diagnosing the engine problem

Model : 87 RX7 Turbo II
Mods : removed emission, RB Rev II exhaust

Problem : Car cranks but won't start. none of the indicator from idiot light turns on except clock when the key is at ON position.

What I did : I used the LED diagnostic technique I got from FAQ, and hooked it up on the 6 pin green connector near driver side strut. I have tested the LED to make sure that they works. After I plugged in both LED into DCC1, DCC2 and ABR, I turned the key to ON position, both LED lights up for about 3 seconds and then turns off. That's all, no pause, no repeat, nothing else. I repeat the same procedure a dozen times and I still get the same result. I made sure I plugged the wire into top left, bottom left, and top middle of the green connector.

I need help figuring out if my diagnostic module is bugged or worst my ECU is fried.

Thanks for your time.

Leonel95

Do you get spark?? Go ahead and check to make sure that you didnt hook up the Fuel lines backwards.

Also check the fuses.

satch

iTrader: (1)

After the error code lights light up for three seconds as they should do then the light will flash "if" there are error codes, but in your istance it appears there are no error codes.

Disconnect the two wire plug at the back of the alternator and ground the White/Black wire (not Black/White so don't confuse the two) and turn the key to on and the idiot lights should mostly turn on.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

how do I know if I have the fuel line backwards

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

how do I tell if it's white/black not black/white

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Checked the coil, it has sparks on both trailing and leading

Checked fuse, both main fuse as well as the cabin fuses is good, except the room fuse has a 10a instead of 7.5a fuse on it. Also there is a metal pin inserted into the slot below the 15a engine fuse slot.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Just unplugged the two wire plug and ground the white/black wire, which is the wire that has mostly white and less black.

Idiot light still doesnt turn on, and now the clock won't turn on as well.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

As far as the fuel line goes, the car was running fine although had the sputtering problem under acceleration. And then after couple weeks the car finally wasn't able to hold the rpm any longer during a warm up and slowly shuts the engine off. Since then the engine was not able to maintain idle at all or even to start.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Was this done w/key to on?

Correction: the slot below the Engine fuse is not used so no problem there. Since the idiot lights are powered by the Meter fuse check its condition.

You might have connection issues due to cold soldering at the idiot lights. And the W/B wire at the alternator runs to the largest plug of the CPU and if you ground this wire w/key to on the idiot lights should come on as the relay responsible for this action is located in the CPU.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Idiot light turns on by itself randomly such as the low fuel light, hatch light, and coolant light before, I grounded the white/black wire behind the alternator to chassis, and then turn the key to on position, but now not even the clock work. I checked the fuse and both engine fuse and the idiot light fuse is good. When I turn the key to on position, I can hear clicking noises coming both around the sun shade above my head as well as around the solenoid near the maf and another one around driver side strut tower, the CPU also beeped 5 times and shuts off earlier when I turn the key to on position.


Bottom line is the idiot light doesn't turn on at all, and it got worse after I grounded the w/b wire.
My main concern is if this has something to do with interior harness or the engine harness. Or both, I guess I won't know unless I cut open every wire and check them one by one.

I'm about to take the engine out as well as the engine harness, but I would like to pinpoint the cause of the no start and the idiot light issue.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

I also tried to take the interior harness out, and finds out this harness is a bitch to remove. It will require the steering column to be removed and the black sound deadening sheet on the firewall to be removed as well. Is there a write up on how to remove the interior as well as the battery and engine harness?

I also faced the problems when trying to remove the compression tube next to throttle body, I find that the inner bolts on the compression tube is really difficult to reach, is there something else that I can remove to make removal of compression tube, throttle body, and UIM easier?

So far I tried removing alternator and intercooler, but I don't know what to remove next.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The alternator warning light in the CPU is responsible for the idiot lights to turn on and the relay requires a ground on the W/B wire. Grounding this light should have no affect at all as far as the clock for they are not related at all. There are four wires connected to the clock. One wire connects to an accessory fuse, another wire connects to a battery buss fuse in the interior fuse box, another wire connects to a ground and the last wire connects to the light switch so there is no relationship between the W/B wire and the clock other than the connection at the back of the unit is a poor one for one reason or another. Again, the W/B wire runs to the relay in the CPU. If that wire were grounded and the lights didn't come on then the relay is damaged or the pin connection to the relay is bad or the voltage to the relay is not present or the wire running from the relay to the idiot lights is poor. The Yellow/Blue wire at the largest CPU plug brings a ground to the idiot lights and causes them to turn on if the Meter fuse is powering the idiot lights as it should.

The 7.5 amp Room fuse powers the clock. Put a correct amperage fuse in this fuse slot. If the fuse is good the interior courtesy lights would work.