Ford 302. Turbo Buick V6. To name a few.

 

I've heard old 240 Z inline 6's work

 

A line of 6 clyinders will REALLY throw off the handling. Id stay with a short V engine. The Buick Turbo V6 would be your best bet, and put you into 11's with little problems.

 

351W can be taken up to 427 cubes, and bolts in just as easy as a 302, save the extra 2 inches of hood clearance.

What exactly is wrong with a 350?

What exactly is wrong with a rotary?

No real engines bolt in other than the 350 with the kit, so you're pretty much able to put in anything you can fit.

And when you're done your bastard car, come by my place in abbotsford, and I'll show you why you should have stayed rotary, after you've spent thousands of hours and thousands of dollars in a swap no one respects and puts you with a slower car that cost more money...

 

:cough: Supra twin turbo :cough:

 

:cough: stupidity :cough:

Let's see, for the amount that swap would cost, You could put in a ported-head and cammed Ford 5.0L. (easy to find, too, unlike a supra twin-turbo motor.) (400 hp)

For the price of single-turbo converted, aftermarket ECU'd, fuel modded Supra motor, you could build the bottom end of the ford motor, and add a Paxton 3000 supercharger, which could easily TRIPLE the amount of horsepower the supra engine would be pouting out.

If you're gonna make a bastard swap, why not at least do a sensible one...

 

Wait I have an idea a.............13BT!!! Unique I know but I like to live on the edge

 

i knew a guy who put a 3.8 supercharged thunderbird engine in...wow you talking about a hoss of a ride!

 

20B

 

let me ask this...where in the world can someone find a 20b???? i hear alot about them??? how much more power do it have than a 13b??

 

www.fc3s.org sells 20B's, but they don't always have them in stock. Well, a series 5 N/A motor puts out about 160hp? Compared to the 20B's 300hp (approximately), it has lots more power. Mariah Motorsports says you can get a reliable 400-500 hp out of them too.

 

20b? why didnt you say 20K? Because that is about how many dollars you'll need to pull it off... Awesome power, but only for the people with the experience and the f'n money.... good idea... no thanks

 

Bull ****. There has been a few people who have put them in for 8k. If you cant do your own work, yes expect a 20-40k bill.

 

Has anyone ever tried a SR20DET or a RB26DETT

 

I remember seein a 7 with a RB26DETT in it in some inpor mag, the car was at the 2002 Tokyo auto salon. It had about 1000 hp to the wheels, pretty ******* expensive though. allthough it ran a killer 1/4 time. anybody have that ad??? i remember seeing it on here too

 

Yes, there is a long thread (about 7 pages) in the 3rd gen forum right now about an SR20-FD swap. Has tones of pics too!
The SR20 is an EXCELLENT swap choice. I love the rotary to death, but no matter what people argue, the SR20 is a damn good engine, some would say better.

RB26DETT would be great, for inline speed. You can do up those engines to over 1400 rwhp. The thing that separates why this swap is not feasable is in your wallet. Oh.. there's not $80,000 in your wallet? Whoops sorry! This engine is in the same classs as the 2JZ-GTE: two of the best japanese engines out there... tones of power to be made... but way to much money to pull it off.

SR20, 4G63, 4AGZE (with turbo instead of SC)... each of these engines are light/small enough not to upset the balance of the car, and are capable of running serious power (25 psi) on stock internals. You can get over 400 flywheel HP out of these with stock internals, and still be somewhat reliable. For 4cyls, these are the best choices in my opinion.

Some V6 engine swaps might be nice. The NSX C32B engine would be good. All aluminum so weight is kept down. The only downside is you can't run lots of boost on it (come on, you don't want to keep it an NA!!!) without doing some serious modifications, and even then the alum. block will hold you back. But hey, if you just want like 300-375 rwhp, this could be a choice.

 

Whoops, forgot about the 3S-GTE! That would be one of my top swap choices.

 

a 302 would probably be the cheapest/easiest for the money, run a carb on there and its like pie. Im not saying i would do it, but if i were to use anything other than a rotary, i would use a 302 if i was on a budget, and an Lt1 if i could. Good luck, i think 13BT would be the best, i mean ****, you have gotten 200K out of your engine now, what says you cant get that out of another rotary?

 

Ok, first off, there are only a "few" 20b swaps into 2nd gens...

I looked into this about 6 or 7 months ago when I came across an EXTREMELY cheap 20b. I did the research and Evil Aviator (of this forum) said to me prepare to spend that kind of cash... here is the advice/warning he gave me -- 8k with a 3k motor? so 5k for installation... not so sure about that buddy...

Evil Aviator says:
I'm not sure if I can list all of the fabrications necessary because it depends on how you do it. I'm not sure if this makes any sense, but with this engine swap you have hurdles to overcome rather than a rigid process to follow. Here is a list of the hurdles and some of the many options you have. I listed the option that I chose for each hurdle on line a.

1) Oil Metering Pump - The 20B has an electrical OMP run by the Cosmo ECU.
a) Install an 86-88 13B front cover with a mechanical OMP.
b) Use pre-mix.
c) Run your engine with the original Cosmo ECU.
d) Somehow make it work electrically (aftermarket ECU, homemade circuit, etc.)

2) Starter/Tranny Plate - The AT starter mounts in a different position on the Cosmo than it does on a MT RX-7. Therefore, any transmission which was intended for a MT RX-7 will leave a big gap where the original starter mounted. To make things worse, the gap is right where the MT starter was supposed to bolt to a mounting flange, so you will need to make a spacer that will anchor a starter mounting bolt, as well as cover the gap. Sorry, I don't see any other options here unless you use the Cosmo AT transmission or find an aftermarket bellhousing that will compensate for this (good luck!).

3) Thermostat - The 20B came from the huge engine bay of a luxury car, so the thermostat housing is way too tall to fit under the RX-7 hood, no matter how low you mount the engine.
a) Fabricate a custom thermostat housing.
b) Install a 13B water pump.
c) Install an electric water pump.
d) Cut a hole in the hood, and let the thermostat stick out like a periscope, hehehe.

4) Hood Clearance - Even with the K2RD engine mounts, the 20B intake manifold will not clear the FC hood. My SPiN Racing mounts put the engine 1/8" above the steering rack, and the hood still missed closing by about 1".
a) Gut the interior of the TII hood scoop.
b) Modify the firewall and mount the engine back and lower in the car.
c) Modify the intake manifold or install a custom intake manifold.
d) Find/make a custom hood that allows enough clearance.

5) Front Stabilizer Bar - The 20B oil pan interferes with the front stabilizer bar.
a) Use a Mazda Comp Speedway bar and relocate the mounting points.
b) Mount the bar with spacers. (I was going to do this, but the spacers would have been awfully thick, and there wouldn't have been much ground clearance).
c) Fabricate a custom stabilizer bar.
d) Install a dry sump system.

6) Tachometer - A 13B tachometer will have a 150% error when hooked up to a 3-rotor.
a) Install an aftermarket tach set to V-6 mode.
b) Install a reducer for the 13B tach.

7) Cooling - Everyone who has put a 3-rotor in their car has had cooling problems, even with the stock turbos. Obviously, the stock cooling system which barely works for a 1.3L isn't going to work for a 2.0L. All of the normal cooling upgrades would help: competition radiator, electric fan(s), oil cooler(s), etc. My car has a 26.5x13" 2-core custom Griffin radiator (no, not the crappy Mustang model that everyone else uses), AN -20 hoses and fittings, two 13" Spal electric puller fans, an 89 front end (better cooling) with a modified internal bumper, and a stock 2Gen oil cooler. I'm thinking about mounting two additional Mocal oil coolers under the headlights if the current system doesn't work. In case you haven't figured it out, all this cooling stuff requires modification of the engine bay, and fabrication of engine mounts, hoses, hose fittings, etc. My cooling mods have cost me about $1,000 so far.

8) Crank Angle Sensor - Many aftermarket ECU's require milling-down of some of the lobes inside the crank angle sensor.

9) Wiring Harness - Prepare to spend at least a week running down stock wires to find where everything goes, what you can keep, and what you can toss. Regardless of which ECU you use to run your engine, you will still probably want to keep things like the headlights, turn signals, horn, etc. The Mazda factory wiring diagram is a must, and the Haynes manual is helpful, too, because it covers both the 86-88 and 89-92 cars.

10) Rear Counterweight - This may need some milling, depending on which flywheel you use. I think that the milling for my Mazda Comp flywheel cost around $100.

11) Intercooler - Even if you have the stock IC and plumbing, I don't think it will fit under the hood. You will need to fabricate custom IC piping, regardless of whether you use the stock IC, other IC, or no IC.

12) Engine Mounts - The Cosmo engines (both 13B and 20B) use different engine mounts than the RX-7.
a) Make your own mounts.
b) Use the K2RD mounts.
c) An engine mount from a Luce coupe will work on one side (I forgot which), but the other side will need a custom mount. This may save you some time or money, but I don't think that the Luce mount will handle single-turbo torque.


Sorry about the length, but thats the process...

 

What about using that 4.6L 32valve mustang motor, I don't know if it would bit, but it sure coudl make for a kewl car.

 

Most of that I could do myself with enough trial and error. Really, most of that stuff is small things.

 

wow this is an old thread and prices and availability have definitely changed!!!!!