2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Engine Break in IDEA?

Old Apr 28, 2003 | 08:51 PM
  #26  
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From: Mars
Disconnect the arm and tie the wastegate open with some wire. You should see no boost, Id imagine you got the new turbo/wastegate ported?
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Old Apr 30, 2003 | 01:34 AM
  #27  
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OH yeah you could say it is ported, and that is what i was looking for thanx, dr0x that is all i wanted someone to substanciate my theory to allow my engine to break in properly and the exhaust is relatively restricted right now, as it is stimply going to remain stock until i break in the engine, then the TURBO back Bolts UP... HEHEHE!anx guys' for all your help!
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Old Apr 30, 2003 | 05:24 AM
  #28  
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Jreynish

I really want to know what you have done to your car. I don't care about 1/4 mile times as I don't drag. I just want to know what other monsters are being built out there.
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Old Apr 30, 2003 | 06:17 AM
  #29  
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I am getting my engine rebuilt right now, and it should be here within a week or two. What would you guys say is the safest, easiest, and relatively fast way to break in the engine? I have a turbo so I also must find a way to keep boost down. I really need to port my wastegate and get a boost controller, as I think boost spiking is what detonated my engine in the first place (and lack of fuel) anyway, what would you guys do if you were in my shoes as far as breaking it in.
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Old Apr 30, 2003 | 11:01 AM
  #30  
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From: Windsor, On
just don't go WOT and dont go above 100KPH

Don't go above 3000RPM for the first 700km, very light throttle only. No WOT/passing. Vary loads, long highway trips are bad. 10-15km trips are OK
Don't go above 4500RPM for the first 1400km
light/medium throttle. Vary loads.
Don't go above 5000RPM for the first 2000KM
occassional moderate throttle is ok. , but nothing insane. Vary loads.
then you're DONE, rev it to 7k and dump the clutch just for good measure.

Don't worry about not making boost, follow those guildlines and stay at LOW THROTTLE and you won't make boost. Really. You don't have to worry about it much anways. 1-2 PSI of boost is NOT going to magically destroy a new engine. 5-7PSI on the other hand.....

and yes, removing the wastegate arm will result in little - no boost
its natural state is CLOSED, yes, but with nothing holding it closed, it'll flop around and do nothing. Add exhaust pressure to that, and it should have no trouble staying open all the time the car is on. I'd still wire it open to be sure, though.
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Old Apr 30, 2003 | 12:48 PM
  #31  
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From: usa
First off, Jreynish you're being paranoid over nothing. Your foot is completely in control of this car. IT isnt like knight rider, and will not go into turbo boost on it's own and jump a building or anything of the sort. Just dont feed it more than 1/4 throttle.

Next, some of you guys are arguing over this wastegate deal. Well, a stock turbo with wastegate is different from an aftermarket one. Im not clear on which jreynish has. I have had experience with a stocker here the arm would not stay in place due to a risted flapper arm where the retainer ring would not stay in place. When the arm fell off, the door, normally shut, would be forced open by exhaust pressure, from very little throttle on up. IT would take 2-3 seconda to build any boost.

This is because the spring that controls when the WG opens is IN THE ACTUATOR, not the flapper door. Remove the actuator rod, the door is free to fly around wherever it wishes.
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