Here is the deal i rebuilt my engine with a street port and now my turbo T04 is rebuilt so i will have to drive this car non boosted for a while, I was thinking of just disconnecting the Waste Gate rod from the flapper (it is incorporated WG) that would keep boost from building making it really easy to drive without boosting it! Any thaughts on this?

 

get a boost controller.....turn it down to zero. if you dont have one, you should get one.

 

Boost controllers can only raise boost levels from what the turbo would usually be making. You cannot lower boost levels with a controller.

 

disconnecting the wg rod will just keep building boost till you blow the engine.

to avoid boost, just dont go WOT. if you're in higher gears and the boost starts to rise, downshift so your boost drops then upshift. its pretty easy to avoid boost if you just odnt get on it.

 

well see the deal is quite simply I have just dumped 5000 into my car, and still trying to pay off my car, i am severly low on funds! I wish I could afford a good boost controller.

 

boost controller wont help.

just go for a long leisurely drive.

 

what If you the rod from the flapper is disconnected there is nothing to keep that flapper closed, the flapper will be forced open allowing the exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine allowing NO boost to be created!

 

I wanted to do that when i drove to my Girlfreinds home in Ontario which both ways would have been, 2350miles!!! would have been perfect! BUT NOOO, my turbo was not done on time. so i ended up taking the BUS .

 

Bebesito21
what in the heck is done to your car?? did u go t2?

 

No....still running a 6 port engine. Ive done a few things, some that people on this forum discourage. Once i finish what i want to do and get timeslips to prove it ill reveal everything ive done. I am running N20 though so not quite NA.

 

Just get some wood, block the front tires so they won't roll, jack the rear of the car up so that the tires are half a foot off the ground, get some fans and aim them at the radiator, and get her into 3rd gear and get someone to set the throttle cable at a position @ ~2500 RPM's, let her sit until 3000 KMS or 1800 Miles, pull out and serve.

Probably better to drive it though! lol

 

hehe you are funny, all thaught that is almost and entertaining idea, it would be best to drive it!

 

Just block up the intake.
If you have a cone filter- wrap it in duct tape 90%
If you have a stock airbox, just cover the snorkle 90% or so.
I just got my engine rebuilt, and I don't want to see any boost at all for the first few 100 km's... and it's starts boosting at less than 1/2 throttle at 2000 rpms! (Love the high comp rotors!)

Why do some people have the notion that the WG flapper is open in it's natural state??? It's closed. Manifold pressure from the turbo opens it. If the lever is taken off you will get some insance boost.

Oh, and its better off that you didn't take that long road trip with a fresh rebuild! The odds are something always goes wrong....
Also, you shouldn't keep the engine at a steady RPM or over 70mph untill it's well broken in.

 

that just doesn't make any sense the accuator for the WG pull the arm pulling the flapper shut, creating boost, when there is a pressure difference the accuator allows that rod to release it's pressure, allowing the exhaust gasses to pass the turbing decreasing boost, so if the rod is not connected to the flapper the pressure of the exhaust gasses will force the flapper open not allowing the turbo to boost! Maybe I am wrong in this, if so someone please tell me why i am wrong if infact i am!

 

The WG flapper door is spring loaded to a certain pressure. When the boost reaches a certain PSI, it is enough to push the door open, allowing for an outlet for the boost, rather than through the engine. The WG is on the compresser side, not the hot side.

How would you build up pressure if the WG flapper was always open?

 

that is exactly what i want no boost to build as i am trying to break in my engine properly. The WG is on the exhaust side it is not in the compressor side, cause it allows the exhaust gasses pass through it allowing the turbo to spool down, or did i just misunderstand your post. also there is no spring on the flapper for my turbo.

 

I don't mean a physical spring, im just talking like pressure loaded. Actuator is compressor side. I dunno about your manifold though, since you have an aftermarket turbo.

 

Jreynish-
If you have a hot set-up it will build boost even w/ the wastegate open, just a bit slower.

I took the CHRA and compressor off the turbo exhaust manifold and machined a round "plug" to clamp where the CHRA does. I also made oil and water block off plates.

No boost

Of course your maps are very different NA and you really have to up the low rpm fuel if you have an extended port and no backpressure (turbo). Mine dumps from the '89+ exhaust housing into a 3 1/2" turbo back exhaust. Better low end (and overall power)than my old modded NA, hmmm. Having felt the same set-up at 20+psi it does still feel slow...

 

yes but if you disconnect that accuator from the flapper then the flapper will always be open yes? thus not having to worry about boosting accidentally my NEW engine!

 

yes but if you disconnect that accuator from the flapper then the flapper will always be open yes? thus not having to worry about boosting accidentally my NEW engine!

 

aww but the likely hood of it building quickly enough for me not to catch it is less so that it wil be that much more safe, i also want my brand new turbo to break in a little bit. thus not pulling my turbo apart and blocking everything off. lol. but thank you alot for your input i had concidered that, but still want my turbo to break in a little bit.

 

You are getting this backwards man.

The flapper door is closed to start. If nothing opened it, it would stay closed. Thus no way for the boost to escape, and it would continually spool. The actuator OPENS it, not closes is, when a certain boost level is reached, allowing pressure to escape into the atmosphere or wherever it is routed.

 

AreExSeven-
If you disconnect the WG actautor rod there is NOTHING holding the WG closed and exhaust pressure in the turbo manifold push the flapper open and let exhaust through the WG.

Trust me, I have my S4 turbo manifold and exhaust housing on my car right now w/ no turbo and there is a mark on the turbo backing plate and the WG flapper arm top corner is DENTED from the exhaust slamming the WG door open against the backing plate.

It opens!

 

well then, if I were to still diconnect the arm from the flapper and wire the flapper door open then it would still have the same effect i was looking for in the first place, the reduced risk of boosting.

 

Put something in your tailpipe to make a restriction. This far from the engine the restriction will not heat everything up as badly.

If you have very open exhaust and restrict your intake you may REALLY spin up that new turbo (spooling w/ no resistance) and that isn't friendly on its bearings.

W/ my exhaust tip silencer I slowly boost to 6.5 psi around 4,000 rpm- w/ tip silencer removed it spikes quickly to 20psi by 4,000rpm.

Exhaust restriction REALLY slows spool-up. Open the WG as well.