blackfcTII

As some of you may know from my previous post my TII conversion went south when I finally got her together and at 30 miles the engine blew. I have decided to park her and take a little time to regroup. I want to hit at least 300 whp. Obviously the engine needs a rebiuld so...... gimme some ideas of what I can do.

adrock3217

Well, I'm no expert..but this is my build list:

-Street port – Kahren
-Balance S5 T2 rotors
-RX8 Front stat. gear w/ multi-window bearing
-RB Type II Rear Stat. gear w/ 3-Window Bearing
-Competition thrust bearings
-Mazda (OEM) Apex Seals
-Mazda (OEM) apex springs outer + inner
-Side seals
-Side seal springs
-Solid corner seals
-Corner seal FD springs
-Mazda Factory Race Clearanced Rotor Bearings
-OEM Oil Rings
-Competition Oil Control Ring Springs Front + rear
-Atkins Thermal Bypass Pellet
-Racing Beat Oil Pressure Regulator (80psi)
-Racing Beat Oil Pan Baffle

blackfcTII

Well I wasn't sayin ya had to be an expert I just don't want the advice like exhaust, fuel pump, and intake, those things are a given, this is good thanks. I didn't know you could use some rx8 and fd parts. I meen I know there all rotaries and all but you know. What does the RX8 Front stat. gear w/ multi-window bearing, RB Type II Rear Stat. gear w/ 3-Window Bearing and Corner seal FD springs do for the engine.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Better bearings and stationary gears mean more reliability when you rev high and generally beat on the thing.

Why did the previous one blow up? 30 miles is awfully short.

adrock3217

^^^

Like he said. The upgraded stat. gears and seals...these are the parts most people who build up bridgeports use. They can handle extended high-RPM use, or whatever you can throw at them. My list is the..to me..best of the best products you can use when building a "bullet-proof" 13B.

88IntegraLS

300rwhp is easy.

Ingredients:

Ford 302
E303 cam
TFS, Edelbrock, GT40x, AFR, etc. heads
headers
TFS, Edelbrock, GT40, Cobra etc. intake
30lb. injectors w/ matching maf
65mm throttle body


Or you can use a stock 98+ GM LS1



It's a bit harder to do it with a rotary and make it not blow up.

I'd suggest a standalone ECU, dyno tuned, 4x 720cc injectors minimum, fmic, and probably some aftermarket turbo kit but stockers might be able to be pushed to 300 rwhp with the right tuning and fmic.

Don't forget the rebuilt rotary motor, do it yourself to learn the craft. Chances are it will be a skill you will use again and again.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

very nice list you got there!

Node

iTrader: (1)

a good solid rebuild w/ all stock parts.
good housings
fd corner seals
stock 2mm apex seals
stock gaskets
a port if you want one

fully stock port and stock internals motors will make 300rwhp no sweat. 350rwhp even is no prob on stock block, stock port and no bad turbo lag. mazdas parts are strong and work just fine, stock ports arent awful either.
Don't get me wrong either, the stock stuff will make tons more power.

changing the turbo and standalone is the key to easy horsepower, along w/ solid water and oil cooling systems and a solid fuel system. gotta make sure your intercooler matches nicely w/ your turbo and boost levels, just try not to kill your radiators cooling power

stock ecu can manage, but standalones seem to help a ton. im going w/ one over the rtek 2.0 for peace of mind. but my motor is going to be somewhat built and i dont want to risk it for something so stupid.
not only will my motor stay together under boost, but i have control at higher rpms than the stock ecu can manage, way faster computer and better resolution for smooth idle and throttle response. plus you can just make way more power and be safer w/ good timing control. i still want to hook up a MSD box
the 2nd gen ecus are freakin quirky. the rtek 2.0 was nice, but still kept all the same BS of the stock ECU. Something I'm tired of already.


just get a standalone and make it a little easier

-Ben Martin

blackfcTII

Get off my thread you make me sick!

blackfcTII

Thanks for the other advice though

blackfcTII

Believe it was my fault. I'm pretty sure I over boosted and detinated the **** out of it. I have a ecu that is chipped with a FCD and I was still running the N350 pressure sensor which I believ made it run lean. It was a JDM that supposadly had 25000 miles on it. The compression before was 115 front and back and now is 85 front 45 rear. I think it is my fault, got a little mean on the throttle before I had all of the parts swapped out (pressure sensor), I've heard it would really hurt a rotary if you ran it lean but I didn't think it would hurt it that bad. She was runnin lean. Anyhow, this is all good advice, thanks guys.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, one good ping is all it takes.

Boostmaniac

Jesus, 115 front and back off of a JDM motor is quite nice. It's a damn shame she blew.

Good luck on the rebuild.

blackfcTII

Where is the best place to get a stand alone and any suggestions on what type of turbo to get. Now correct me if I'm wrong but when you hook up a standalone it you pretty much get rid of both the ecu I'm sure and the Emissions engine wiring harness right.

adrock3217

Standalone...you can get a plug-n-play megasquirt for about $525 bucks. All the abilities of a standalone, at about 1/3 the cost. PM Tofuball.



As for a turbo..with a goal of 300rwhp...BNR Stage 3 would be fine (they are good to about 350rwhp). Got to BNRsupercars.com

rx7man13b

300rwhp that way vs 300rw(rotary)hp Ill take the lighter faster rotary

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

It's not bnrsupercars.com anymore...it's http://www.bnrturbos.com

blackfcTII

Mega squirt...is that a piggy back system?

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

Nah, man. It's a full standalone. You'll be able to rid your AFM and everything. Hit up the main forum, and there's a megasquirt forum you can look through.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Megasquirt is a full standalone. It can be bought for 300-350 as a kit that you assemble yourself, or you can get one for a few hundred extra thats prebuilt. Tofuball was previously mentioned as selling assembled ones.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

You can hit 300 rwhp on a completely stock untouched motor easily and still be reliable. You don't need to upgrade anything. You don't even need to port it. If you've got the engine apart, you may as well do some of it though. All you need is a free flowing exhaust and intake, a standalone ecu with good tuning (most important part), and a turbo that can support that power level. Upgrade the intercooler. 300 rwhp is easy.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

megasquirt is still unproven in my view, same with the Rtek 2.0, there have been no big number cars on either of those systems to date.. at least Rtek is new to the game but megasquirt has been out for a while now but i still haven't seen anyone hit over 300 to the wheels on a megasquirt but i have seen plenty do it with piggybacks. maybe people are taking it slow with tuning on them but a year is pushing it.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Standalone EMS is the way to go for relaibility if you have an experienced tuner in the area.

FCD's are terrible because it's tricking the ECU into thinking it is seeing less boost than it really is.
Less boost at ECU means less timing pulled and less fuel delivered than required.

But anyway.
Streetport if you want. SP's a still reliable.
2mm seals
FD corner seals(better design than FC)
Fuel pump
free flow exhaust
Cleaned and bigger injectors
BNR upgrade or T04-ish turbo
FMIC

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

x2 I saw some rtek guys complaining about an insanely rich 3500 rpm on their wideband...something like 9.0's. Something still isn't right with those rteks.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

well i have the first motor that the Rtek 2.0 has eaten but it was owner tuned so i am unsure whether the unit caused it or if it was installation/tuner error.