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emergency 13b-re swap checklist

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Old 02-12-09, 06:05 PM
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emergency 13b-re swap checklist

time is short, and i cannot get my motor to run. my car is at the shop i work at, and NONE of the techs or manager can figure it out. see my old thread on the bunk *** turbo 6-port i tried to complete: here

ANYWAYS, so i have a week before an important event, and my boss isn't too happy with how long my car has been taking up a bay, so im going to throw in a 13b-re i picked up for cheap because it had been sitting at the shop for a while. so, i just wanted to double check that i have everything i need and it should be a simple bolt in job.

s5 gxl
13b-re motor
s5 t2 turbo manifold/turbo/downpipe
s5 t2 maf/bps/ecu
s5 wiring harness
cosmo motor mount brackets
13b-re fuel injectors

I just wanted to know if there were going to be any issues that could come up. Any help appreciated.
Old 02-12-09, 06:25 PM
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So your doing this swap just to get it going right.

s5 gxl: All good
13b-re motor: All good
s5 t2 turbo manifold/turbo/downpipe: yep will fit
s5 t2 maf/bps/ecu: wont work.. full range tps, different cas plug and wiring I believe. lol if you keeping emission's, will be even harder. Also you have a eomp right... wiring should be the same for that.

s5 wiring harness: some plugs will be different and in different locations.
cosmo motor mount brackets: yep get some bansia racing ones.
13b-re fuel injectors: yeh all 550's like stock 13bt so will be fine.

oil pick up points different.
Need to block off outlets where 2nd turbo would have been.
throttle cable isn't long enough. (we for me right hand drive its not)
And the engine sits higher, so will need new intakes and intercooler plumbing (assuming you already have a fmic.

personally if I was you, Id find a aftermarket ECU to do what you need to do. Will be heaps easier in the long run.

Good luck with the install Im not rushing mine, but I keep finding things I havnt taken into account.

-Anth
Old 02-12-09, 06:35 PM
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You need to open the engine and take out the exhaust inserts. Replace them with FD or T2. Will require a semi-rebuild. The stock inserts literally close almost half the exhaust port.

The RE only came with automatic transmission, you will need a replacement rear counterweight and get an aftermarket flywheel. The CW won't be perfect or even close, you need to get it balanced.

You will need to make or buy a lot of block off plates.

You will have to either guy RE oil lines or make your own to reach the rear oil pedestal.

If you have a week before the event, your doomed. Slow down, borrow a friends car for the event, and do your build correctly. Doing anything with a turbo rotary half assed means you will be doing it again. Having so many unknowns and so little time to fix it is only asking for trouble. What if you have bad injectors, RE water or AIT sensors, a cracked apex or blown side seal, throwing your tune off... I did it once, I did a whole rebuild, install, standalone install, made a new harness, and had it all running and idling well all by myself. Took me a little less than 2 weeks, and I spent as much time as I could on the car. (10 hours a day until I fell asleep or started to go crazy every night.) When I thought I was done, I was going to go get it tuned. My ECU blew from my charger giving it 16 volts, but I am glad it did. Later on I found 10-15 things that were wrong with it, that most likely would have caused it to blow the motor instead of just the ECU. Even today I am finding things that are just a little off...

I wish you the best of luck. PM or call me if you need anything.
Old 02-12-09, 06:37 PM
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yes, primarily getting it to run, and then i can mess with making it run right, because as of now its just in the way.

what can i do about the TPS and CAS? not worried about emissions at all, its a track-only car. and would i be better off trying to run the cosmo wiring harness? i haven't really looked at it much, but iirc it wont plug into my harness.
Old 02-12-09, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TweakGames
The RE only came with automatic transmission, you will need a replacement rear counterweight and get an aftermarket flywheel. The CW won't be perfect or even close, you need to get it balanced.
i was just going to use my current flywheel and clutch, both were recently replaced with barely any miles on them.

why do i need to remove those inserts?
Old 02-12-09, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TweakGames
If you have a week before the event, your doomed. Slow down, borrow a friends car for the event, and do your build correctly. Doing anything with a turbo rotary half assed means you will be doing it again.
then come to the shop and make my 6 port run
Old 02-12-09, 06:50 PM
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If I was not 5 hours away I would in a heartbeat. You just have something silly wrong with it I promise. Keep working on the NA-T, you will find your problem soon enough.

Why remove exhaust inserts : http://www.nopistons.com/forums/To-C...Fd-t14153.html They are half closed. That is looking from it from a good angle. Trust me its like half shut.

PM me, tell me what is going on in detail, and what you have taken out of the equation.
Old 02-12-09, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TweakGames
The RE only came with automatic transmission, you will need a replacement rear counterweight and get an aftermarket flywheel. The CW won't be perfect or even close, you need to get it balanced..
Tweek, can you go into this in more detail.....
Ive not changed my rear Counter weight as I was advised I didnt need to.... (I just mounted my flywheel and clutch to the existing counterweight.

Ah thats fecked... Im not going to be stuffed doing it now that its all in and installed.


PS why does a auto need a different CW's? the CW's are to take take out the eccentric load from the crank... I don't see how that related to the auto box.
Old 02-12-09, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Havoc
Tweek, can you go into this in more detail.....
Ive not changed my rear Counter weight as I was advised I didnt need to.... (I just mounted my flywheel and clutch to the existing counterweight.

Ah thats fecked... Im not going to be stuffed doing it now that its all in and installed.


PS why does a auto need a different CW's? the CW's are to take take out the eccentric load from the crank... I don't see how that related to the auto box.
You are right I miss-spoke / thought. The problem is that you can't use the stock flywheel with the automatic rear CW. The CW and flywheel are one piece on an FC. The RE being an automatic is attached to the automatic flywheel. You have to get an aftermarket one and re-attach the CW to the flywheel) Thank you for correcting me. I had mine balanced and it was off by a lot still stock.
Old 02-12-09, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TweakGames
You are right I miss-spoke / thought. The problem is that you can't use the stock flywheel with the automatic rear CW. The CW and flywheel are one piece on an FC. The RE being an automatic is attached to the automatic flywheel. You have to get an aftermarket one and re-attach the CW to the flywheel) Thank you for correcting me. I had mine balanced and it was off by a lot still stock.
Ah thank god for that..... I had a small heart attack when you said all that hahaha

yeah interesting about the balancing.. Really for what I want Im not worried at this point. But I will do that when I get it rebuild and ported. Mines just a stock imported block at this stage.
Old 02-12-09, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatakai
i just wanted to double check that i have everything i need and it should be a simple bolt in job.

I just wanted to know if there were going to be any issues that could come up. Any help appreciated.


Where to begin..........

Originally Posted by Havoc
Good luck with the install Im not rushing mine, but I keep finding things I havnt taken into account.

-Anth
I've spent 2 years and I keep finding things that I want to change/tweak, rebuild.

Originally Posted by TweakGames
The RE only came with automatic transmission, you will need a replacement rear counterweight and get an aftermarket flywheel. The CW won't be perfect or even close, you need to get it balanced.
Becuase the RE only came in auto negates the fact that you need to get a counterweight. You already have one. Buy the flywheel of your choice and like will be good.

Originally Posted by TweakGames
You will need to make or buy a lot of block off plates.
2 or 3

Originally Posted by TweakGames
If you have a week before the event, your doomed.
Agreed

Originally Posted by Tatakai
and would i be better off trying to run the cosmo wiring harness? i haven't really looked at it much, but iirc it wont plug into my harness.
This kind of question leads me to believe that it's doomed already. You need to do alot more research than this my friend. You'd be better off doing a 13bt swap as it can be literally plug in and bolt on.

Originally Posted by Havoc
Tweek, can you go into this in more detail.....
Ive not changed my rear Counter weight as I was advised I didnt need to.... (I just mounted my flywheel and clutch to the existing counterweight.
That's all you need to do. You're fine

Originally Posted by Havoc
But I will do that when I get it rebuild and ported. Mines just a stock imported block at this stage.
I'm going to post up some pics...... hopefully tonight, that will probably change your mind about waiting to crack that sombitch open.
Old 02-12-09, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by NotTTT
This kind of question leads me to believe that it's doomed already. You need to do alot more research than this my friend. You'd be better off doing a 13bt swap as it can be literally plug in and bolt on.
the reason for this "emergency" swap, is im just completely frustrated with this motor in the car. the original plan was to run this motor while i stockpile parts for the cosmo swap, with a nice T04S, V-mount setup, and Power FC. i will admit to not knowing that much about doing the swap, but because of the lack of info available on the internet about this swap..
Old 02-12-09, 07:31 PM
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Where's your teal font for that comment? Not alot of info on the swap? Jeex man I bet there are hundreds of threads between the 3 forums - club, team and NP. HUNDREDS
Old 02-12-09, 07:32 PM
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Not to sound like a dick and no I don't know the backstory about the 6-port turbo but you couldn't get one swap to work with unlimited time, now you're trying to do a second with in a week when you admitadely don't know anything about it? The odds are not in your favor my friend. Chance favors the prepared
Old 02-13-09, 06:18 AM
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Complete swap pictorially documented. http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm

Very helpful parts: http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_cosmo.htm

You can use the S5 engine harness very easily. Do not worry about the CAS plug, just install the CAS from your current engine. Wiring for the TPS: http://www.banzai-racing.com/how_to_cosmo_tps.htm

Bolt a LW flywheel to the existing rear counterweight.

Block off the OMP and run premix. The Cosmo only runs 2 oil injectors and the FC runs 4.

You need a FMIC and BOV. You will need to make a bracket for the throttle cable.

If you are going to run the stock S5 ECU I would not push the car very hard.
Old 02-13-09, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
Complete swap pictorially documented. http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm

Very helpful parts: http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_cosmo.htm

You can use the S5 engine harness very easily. Do not worry about the CAS plug, just install the CAS from your current engine. Wiring for the TPS: http://www.banzai-racing.com/how_to_cosmo_tps.htm

Bolt a LW flywheel to the existing rear counterweight.

Block off the OMP and run premix. The Cosmo only runs 2 oil injectors and the FC runs 4.

You need a FMIC and BOV. You will need to make a bracket for the throttle cable.

If you are going to run the stock S5 ECU I would not push the car very hard.

awesome! i forgot you guys had all the info on the swap I needed. I am just trying to get it DRIVEABLE right now, so I will run the s5 ecu, but I will be using a Power FC next weekend
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