An electrical problem maybe?
10-07-08, 11:02 PM
#1
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An electrical problem maybe?
Hi
So i just recently bought a 1987 Turbo II and it started acting weird.
This is kind of hard to explain but ill try my best
So when i accelerate in any gear, the turbo would spool around 3k but when it is done "spooling" the rpm would drop drastically (about 2k) when my foot is still on the accelerator but the boost gauge would not move at all. The car runs fine and there seems to be nothing wrong with the engine at all.
One of my friends said that it might be some crossed wires to the gauge cluster becuase after around 10 mins of driving, there would be a continuous beeping in the car
can any experts please add their input on this situation?
Thanks in Advance
So i just recently bought a 1987 Turbo II and it started acting weird.
This is kind of hard to explain but ill try my best
So when i accelerate in any gear, the turbo would spool around 3k but when it is done "spooling" the rpm would drop drastically (about 2k) when my foot is still on the accelerator but the boost gauge would not move at all. The car runs fine and there seems to be nothing wrong with the engine at all.
One of my friends said that it might be some crossed wires to the gauge cluster becuase after around 10 mins of driving, there would be a continuous beeping in the car
can any experts please add their input on this situation?
Thanks in Advance
10-07-08, 11:06 PM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Beeping is covered in the FAQ for FC sticky thread found both at the top of the new member technical section and at the top of this the 2nd gen RX-7 technical section.
As covered there, it is most likely the power steering CPU. The number of beeps without pausing indicates what the issue is.
As far as the boost issue it sounds like you are getting into boost cut or a major TPS mis adjustment. Does the boost gauge ever move and what modifications are done to the car.
As covered there, it is most likely the power steering CPU. The number of beeps without pausing indicates what the issue is.
As far as the boost issue it sounds like you are getting into boost cut or a major TPS mis adjustment. Does the boost gauge ever move and what modifications are done to the car.
10-07-08, 11:20 PM
#3
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No modifications whats so ever. The boost gauge doesn't move at all and sorry about the beeping thing, i just included it in my statement becuase somebody told me it might be related.
I actually just like bought the car very recently like during the weekend and its my first rotary so i'm not really familiar with much
Thanks
I actually just like bought the car very recently like during the weekend and its my first rotary so i'm not really familiar with much
Thanks
10-08-08, 11:05 AM
#6
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Boucing RPM is almost always a mis-adjusted TPS... or in a few rare cases the timing is off...
But TPS being off adjustment is what makes it bounce 99% of the time.
But TPS being off adjustment is what makes it bounce 99% of the time.
10-08-08, 03:35 PM
#7
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but i thought throttle position sensor affects bouncing when it is idling?
Would it cause the rpm to drop around 2k-3k when my foot is on the accelerator still?
Thanks
Would it cause the rpm to drop around 2k-3k when my foot is on the accelerator still?
Thanks
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10-09-08, 05:08 PM
#8
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10-13-08, 07:53 PM
#10
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so the bouncing RPM has been fixed. The clutch was slipping unbelievably so i had the clutch replaced. i found that my boost sensor is completely missing so hoping to find one in the for sale forum
My warning on my idiot clock seems to be working but the clock portion is not. Any solutions to this?
Also noticed my temp gauge isnt working, checked the fuse and it was fine. I guess i should check the water temp gauge unit next?
also, i looked at the electrical section about the beeping but still havent figured out the problem yet but its a non stop beeping and it starts around 10 min after driving. It only stops when i turn the engine off
Thanks for any further advice in advance
My warning on my idiot clock seems to be working but the clock portion is not. Any solutions to this?
Also noticed my temp gauge isnt working, checked the fuse and it was fine. I guess i should check the water temp gauge unit next?
also, i looked at the electrical section about the beeping but still havent figured out the problem yet but its a non stop beeping and it starts around 10 min after driving. It only stops when i turn the engine off
Thanks for any further advice in advance
10-14-08, 12:04 AM
#11
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Also noticed my temp gauge isnt working, checked the fuse and it was fine. I guess i should check the water temp gauge unit next?
also, i looked at the electrical section about the beeping but still havent figured out the problem yet but its a non stop beeping and it starts around 10 min after driving. It only stops when i turn the engine off
Thanks for any further advice in advance
Thanks for any further advice in advance
Originally Posted by FAQ for FC
I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.
10-15-08, 12:28 AM
#15
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
The power steering speed sensor is in the speedometer. If your speedometer is not working, you will get a beep pause beep pause beep...etc
10-15-08, 10:18 PM
#19
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10-15-08, 10:45 PM
#20
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well i'm not really good at soldering so i'll have to ask some of my friends for help on the clock
I'll check the sensor on the temp unit sometime over the weekend and since the speedometer is working, it shoudlnt be the power steering speed sensor
Theres also one more thing i'd like to add to this list
I find that there is heavy vibration when RPM is around 5.5k+
Since the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent, it shouldn't be the driveshafts right?
Thanks
I'll check the sensor on the temp unit sometime over the weekend and since the speedometer is working, it shoudlnt be the power steering speed sensor
Theres also one more thing i'd like to add to this list
I find that there is heavy vibration when RPM is around 5.5k+
Since the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent, it shouldn't be the driveshafts right?
Thanks
10-15-08, 11:03 PM
#21
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well i'm not really good at soldering so i'll have to ask some of my friends for help on the clock
I'll check the sensor on the temp unit sometime over the weekend and since the speedometer is working, it shoudlnt be the power steering speed sensor
Theres also one more thing i'd like to add to this list
I find that there is heavy vibration when RPM is around 5.5k+
Since the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent, it shouldn't be the driveshafts right?
Thanks
I'll check the sensor on the temp unit sometime over the weekend and since the speedometer is working, it shoudlnt be the power steering speed sensor
Theres also one more thing i'd like to add to this list
I find that there is heavy vibration when RPM is around 5.5k+
Since the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent, it shouldn't be the driveshafts right?
Thanks
10-16-08, 10:19 PM
#23
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also, i find that my alternator warning light turns on when i start the engine but the second the car starts moving, it turns off by itself?
The previously owner said he replaced the alternator a month before he sold it to me
thanks
The previously owner said he replaced the alternator a month before he sold it to me
thanks
10-16-08, 11:42 PM
#24
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
The alt/charge light should be on until the engine is running.
And I agree with Ronin on the engine mounts. They are pretty simple to change.
And I agree with Ronin on the engine mounts. They are pretty simple to change.
10-17-08, 01:41 AM
#25
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but the engine has started already
so until the car actually moves the light stays on even though the engine is already started and idling? becuase it just started doing that yesterday, usually when the car is idling, that light woudlnt show up
and is there a DIY on replacing engine mounts on the site, i coudlnt find it
Thanks
so until the car actually moves the light stays on even though the engine is already started and idling? becuase it just started doing that yesterday, usually when the car is idling, that light woudlnt show up
and is there a DIY on replacing engine mounts on the site, i coudlnt find it
Thanks