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An electrical problem maybe?

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Old 10-07-08, 11:02 PM
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An electrical problem maybe?

Hi

So i just recently bought a 1987 Turbo II and it started acting weird.

This is kind of hard to explain but ill try my best

So when i accelerate in any gear, the turbo would spool around 3k but when it is done "spooling" the rpm would drop drastically (about 2k) when my foot is still on the accelerator but the boost gauge would not move at all. The car runs fine and there seems to be nothing wrong with the engine at all.

One of my friends said that it might be some crossed wires to the gauge cluster becuase after around 10 mins of driving, there would be a continuous beeping in the car

can any experts please add their input on this situation?

Thanks in Advance
Old 10-07-08, 11:06 PM
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Beeping is covered in the FAQ for FC sticky thread found both at the top of the new member technical section and at the top of this the 2nd gen RX-7 technical section.

As covered there, it is most likely the power steering CPU. The number of beeps without pausing indicates what the issue is.

As far as the boost issue it sounds like you are getting into boost cut or a major TPS mis adjustment. Does the boost gauge ever move and what modifications are done to the car.
Old 10-07-08, 11:20 PM
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No modifications whats so ever. The boost gauge doesn't move at all and sorry about the beeping thing, i just included it in my statement becuase somebody told me it might be related.

I actually just like bought the car very recently like during the weekend and its my first rotary so i'm not really familiar with much

Thanks
Old 10-07-08, 11:56 PM
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boost gauge not moving at all suggests that boost sensor on the passengers shock tower is probably disconnected.
Old 10-08-08, 01:02 AM
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but what about the bouncing rpm still?

and thanks again

i appreciate all the help
Old 10-08-08, 11:05 AM
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Boucing RPM is almost always a mis-adjusted TPS... or in a few rare cases the timing is off...

But TPS being off adjustment is what makes it bounce 99% of the time.
Old 10-08-08, 03:35 PM
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but i thought throttle position sensor affects bouncing when it is idling?

Would it cause the rpm to drop around 2k-3k when my foot is on the accelerator still?

Thanks
Old 10-09-08, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by OmicronS2K
but i thought throttle position sensor affects bouncing when it is idling?

Would it cause the rpm to drop around 2k-3k when my foot is on the accelerator still?

Thanks
boost sensor not hooked up or missing its pellet and the ECU is going into boost cut
Old 10-10-08, 05:10 PM
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THANKS for all the help

I'll try all your suggestions and post an update when everything is fixed

THANKS
Old 10-13-08, 07:53 PM
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so the bouncing RPM has been fixed. The clutch was slipping unbelievably so i had the clutch replaced. i found that my boost sensor is completely missing so hoping to find one in the for sale forum

My warning on my idiot clock seems to be working but the clock portion is not. Any solutions to this?

Also noticed my temp gauge isnt working, checked the fuse and it was fine. I guess i should check the water temp gauge unit next?

also, i looked at the electrical section about the beeping but still havent figured out the problem yet but its a non stop beeping and it starts around 10 min after driving. It only stops when i turn the engine off

Thanks for any further advice in advance
Old 10-14-08, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by OmicronS2K
My warning on my idiot clock seems to be working but the clock portion is not. Any solutions to this?
does the dome light work? If not, then you have a blown room fuse.
Also noticed my temp gauge isnt working, checked the fuse and it was fine. I guess i should check the water temp gauge unit next?
No, you should check the sender

also, i looked at the electrical section about the beeping but still havent figured out the problem yet but its a non stop beeping and it starts around 10 min after driving. It only stops when i turn the engine off

Thanks for any further advice in advance
You didn't read this in the FAQ for FC sticky thread as I told you in the begiunning of this thread:
Originally Posted by FAQ for FC
I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.
Old 10-14-08, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
No, you should check the sender

How do i check the sender?

I did read the beeping section, just cant differentiate between them
Really noob at this, sorry

Thanks
Old 10-14-08, 11:52 PM
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does your speedometer work?

And the FSM has how to check the sensor
Old 10-15-08, 12:07 AM
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most of the time it works but sometimes the whole cluster doesnt work until i like tap it then it would start working again
Old 10-15-08, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by OmicronS2K
most of the time it works but sometimes the whole cluster doesnt work until i like tap it then it would start working again
speedo will work regardless of electrical connections.

The power steering speed sensor is in the speedometer. If your speedometer is not working, you will get a beep pause beep pause beep...etc
Old 10-15-08, 12:57 AM
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i find that the steering is heavier when trying to make a right turn. would that have an effect?
Old 10-15-08, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
does the dome light work? If not, then you have a blown room fuse.
I changed the room fuse and the dome light is working now but the clock still isnt

Thanks Again
Old 10-15-08, 03:56 PM
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Cold solder joints. I think it's in the FAQ, or if you search "cold solder joints" you'll find out how to fix it.
Old 10-15-08, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by OmicronS2K
i find that the steering is heavier when trying to make a right turn. would that have an effect?
I would be checking for bent or damaged steering rack and or suspension and sub frame if one side is heavier than the other.
Old 10-15-08, 10:45 PM
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well i'm not really good at soldering so i'll have to ask some of my friends for help on the clock

I'll check the sensor on the temp unit sometime over the weekend and since the speedometer is working, it shoudlnt be the power steering speed sensor

Theres also one more thing i'd like to add to this list

I find that there is heavy vibration when RPM is around 5.5k+

Since the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent, it shouldn't be the driveshafts right?

Thanks
Old 10-15-08, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by OmicronS2K
well i'm not really good at soldering so i'll have to ask some of my friends for help on the clock

I'll check the sensor on the temp unit sometime over the weekend and since the speedometer is working, it shoudlnt be the power steering speed sensor

Theres also one more thing i'd like to add to this list

I find that there is heavy vibration when RPM is around 5.5k+

Since the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent, it shouldn't be the driveshafts right?

Thanks
Probably busted engine mounts not the drive or half shafts.
Old 10-16-08, 09:46 PM
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so is it difficult to replace motor mounts?

and also do you need any special tools to do this?


Thanks

Last edited by OmicronS2K; 10-16-08 at 09:50 PM.
Old 10-16-08, 10:19 PM
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also, i find that my alternator warning light turns on when i start the engine but the second the car starts moving, it turns off by itself?

The previously owner said he replaced the alternator a month before he sold it to me

thanks
Old 10-16-08, 11:42 PM
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The alt/charge light should be on until the engine is running.

And I agree with Ronin on the engine mounts. They are pretty simple to change.
Old 10-17-08, 01:41 AM
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but the engine has started already

so until the car actually moves the light stays on even though the engine is already started and idling? becuase it just started doing that yesterday, usually when the car is idling, that light woudlnt show up

and is there a DIY on replacing engine mounts on the site, i coudlnt find it

Thanks


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