Icemark

look for a slipping alt belt or a bad alt then.

only in the FSM

OmicronS2K

iTrader: (6)

ok, checked the alt belt, it was a little loose so i fixed that hopefully it stays fixed

thanks for the help, will keep updated when fix other problems

Thanks

OmicronS2K

iTrader: (6)

Do you know of a website or a place that sells motor mounts as a full set instead of just individually?

Thanks

Icemark

Banzaitoyota has some heavy duty ones. Try PMing him

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

http://www.banzai-racing.com/polyfc_motor_mounts.htm

OmicronS2K

iTrader: (6)

I bought a N318 Pressure sensor and plugged it in and the vacuum hose but the boost gauge is still not working?

Any suggestions?

HAILERS

You need to go to the ECU, pin 2B, a brown/red wire, and with the connectors on the ECU, see with a meter what the voltage is with the key to ON, engine off, and compare it to the readings given in the Fuel and Emissions seciton of the FSM. Should be 2.3 to 2.7vdc.

And or pull the plug off the boost sensor, and with a meter and key to ON, see if there is 12vdc on the black/white wire and if there is 5vdc on the brown/white wire.

Then, with the boost sensor unbolted and it's plug connected, put a meter on the brown/red wire and see what the voltage is with the key to ON. Should be the same as mentioned above, 2.3 to 2.7vdc. You unbolt the sensor so you can turn it upside down to access the the elect plug and backprobe the brown/red output wire.

There is a ECU default for a disconnected boost sensor. Something like ..it defaults to 15 in/hg or so. That accounts for you problems stepping on the pedal while driving. I forget your exact description.

HAILERS

************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************
03-01-06, 01:44 AM #4
Henrik
Registered User


Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 429 15.8 is the failsafe value. To get this, there has to be less than about
0.15v on pin 2B. I suspect you have an open circuit or the boost
sensor is not being powered. The sensor needs +12, +5 and ground, try
measuring these at the sensor (the FSM will have pinouts) as well
as the voltage at pin 2B. At least the errors a lot easier to read on the
Rtek than counting flashes on the code output!

Without a functioning boost sensor, the ECU wont cut fuel on decel.

-Henrik
************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************

Henrik's words above concerning the boost sensor. From another thread in the year 2006. It's pertinent to your problem in some ways.

OmicronS2K

iTrader: (6)

so if i'm not getting the voltage numbers from above, how would i fix it?

HAILERS

First of all, is this TRULY a 1987 TurboII or is it some kind of coversion made to look like a turboII?

Have the harnesses been changed out or anything done that you have not made mention of. Like a JDM right hand drive harness put in the car instead of a left hand drive.

Does this car have the stock ECU or a Mickytech type ECU instead.

On an original car, the path from the boost sensor is to a ORANGE colored plug inside the passengers foot well, then to the ECU pin 2B. But it also splits off at the orange plug and makes it's way to the boost sensor in the instrument cluster, and passes thru a couple of connectors getting to the gauge.

So if you don't have power at 2B you simply get out the wiring diagram for your car and follow the path from the sensor to the ECU. And or ohm out the boost sensor wire at the boost sensor to the ECU pin 2B to see if there is an open wire. The wire is brown/red at both ends.

OmicronS2K

iTrader: (6)

This is a true Turbo II

and i just bought the car the sat before the one that has past

According to the guy i bought it from, everything was stock and nothing was changed

When i start the car, the boost gauge goes from -20 to 0 then idles at a little under 0 but when i step on the gas, it doesnt go up at all, it stays in that same positon