maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

ok in a earlier thread i was having way to much fuel and fixed that problem. now another arose on me tonight. i have been crusing around with no hood for the last 2 days so i decide to put it on. b4 i put the hood on i had no electrical problems what so ever. car ran perfect everything.hahaha now to the awesomeness. i put the hood on and then sorta slam it shut. car dies. lose all power. ok so i raise the hood thinking wtf. i unplug the battery and what not then put it back on and check some wiring and stuff and a minute later it all came back on. so i was like hmmmmmmmmm. i fired the car up and let it idle then again i go to close the hood and guess what happened next?????? died instantly. now to the technical stuff. when the key is off i have 12 volts of power to the chasis. guess how we found that out my ebrake locked up for some reason and we were taking the ebrake cable off and started noticing little sparks lol. here comes the funny part u might not believe it but when u would pull the ebrake up the fuel pump would get louder. if it was all the way down it would hardly run. same with the dash lights. they would dim or get brighter. weird stuff let me tell you. with the ebrake down it would be at 2 volts with it all the way up it was at 6. with the key on. and the chasis would be at 6 with the key on.so my problems lies somewhere under the hood i would say. but the wierd thing is there are no wires around the ebrake. i unplugged the sensor and it still did it. this amazes me. its sorta funny to me.i was wondering if there was a easy way to find this little grimlin wire. sorry ab the book but i figured it would be easier for you to help me if u knew all the facts. hopefully someone can chime in and help me out. ill be back at it tomorrow. thanks everyone. oh yea and i followed all the main wires and they arent grounding anywhere. fyi

Eva001Ikari

iTrader: (7)

well i'm not a guru but i have had my fair share of electrical problems. You said all those main wires werent grounded to anything, if so try grounding them off and see what happens if all else fails take off your hood and see if it runs perfectly like it did before if it does then from that point on, drive without a hood OR close it as softly as you possibly can

HAILERS

I'm with the post above this. Go to the negative cable on the battery and make sure it's on good. Then as you know, that negative cable goes to the long starter bolt AND also splices off to the chassis just below the left front strut tower.

So look at the connection below the left front strut tower and make sure it's there. Then go to the starter and find that negative cable and make sure it's bolted down good to the long starter bolt. IF it's not going to the long starter bolt, then make sure it's bolted to the engine/transmission good. Good clean connections.

wvumtnbkr

Is your battery in backwards?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

sounds like the battery terminals are hitting your hood.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

lol no the battery isnt in backwards. i took the hood back off and the problem still exsists. and the ground only goes from the battery to the block. just wierd how this just all started. car ran PERFECT the last 3 days. then bam. this non sense.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

the battery ground goes to the engine??

it should connect to the drivers side frame rail, then end at the starter...

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

that would explain the 12 volts to the chasis all around the engine bay? that one ground to the frame and the starter? and i have another 1 inch ground strap from the block to the fire wall

HAILERS

How"??????????? do you measure voltage at the chassis? I'm missing how you did this.

But, like several have already mentioned, the large cable on the battery goes to the chassis at the bottom inboard side of where the left, front strut tower is and also goes to the long bolt on the starter or one of the bolts that holds the transmission to the engine.

Also the grounds for the fuel pump and lots of other items, is located under the Trai. coil assy. Its a black plug with black wires. I THINK six wires. You pull that plug off and you see it's attached to a copper outfit with six prongs and that is bolted to the chassis. It's bolted to the aft side of the strut tower.

Then again it could be something all different than what is above. The battery positive post has two cables. One is large and goes to the starter. The smaller of those two wires goes directly to the engine bay fuse box. Its about a foot away from the batt positive post. IF that wire isn't connected to the engine bay fuse box good, then you lose battery power to just a lot of things and also lose power from the battery positive post to the MAIN fuse. Well you lose everything if that wire is off. The smaller of the two wires on the battery positive post is the wire I'm talking about.

It's really too hard to fix online since we can't see the wiring and how *changed* it is from the original wiring.

The loose wire b/t the battery positive post and the engine bay fuse box sounds like a likely culprit, what with the slamming of the hood and all.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

well to measure it i had my volt meter out. i put the red on the shock tower bolt and the black on the engine block its self and it read whatever voltage my battery put out. i have 12 volts going into the fues box under the dash.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

and the ground goes to the transmission bolt that comes though to the block. just not to the chasis. so i guess ill get a different negative cable and try that. i still dont get y we were seeing little arks at the rear end when taking off the ebrake cable bracket by the wheel. is there a main line u think that is grounding out?

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

and y would pulling the ebrake up increase voltage lol. if its down my fuel pump has like 2 volts and if its up it has like 6. this is weird.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

got it fixed for the most part. a grounded the battery to the chasis and everything worked fine. thanks guys

HAILERS

Kinda makes sense, a little.

You can take a meter and put it on dcvolts. Then while the engine idles, put one lead to the CASE of the alternator, and the other meter lead to the batt neg post. It will read some voltage but shouldn't exceed??? something like 0.2vdc.

Same with the output post on the alternator. Meter on dcvolts and one meter lead on the large output terminal of the alternator and the other lead to the positive post of the battery. Same results as the above. Less than 0.2vdc.

IF more than that, the the connections need to be taken care of.