Electrical/Cooling problem need help ASAP!!
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Daily Domestic Killer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,425
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From: San Antonio, Tx, USA
Electrical/Cooling problem need help ASAP!!
Damn it all to hell, I Jinxed myself saying that I've never had problems with my e-fan.
First the temp was sitting around the half way mark and goes up a bit from there when sitting still, even with the heater on full blast (though it doesn't feel like it used to). My e-fan seems to be spinning a little slower than usual so I went to check the thermostad/relay and it was very hot, as well as the fuse, I checked all the connections and they all are good, This all just happened today!
I have a none OEM thermostad in there that seemed to work fine for a while, I just got one from Mazda the other day and am gonna put it in to see if it helps....But about the hot power wires from the fan, could my feiro fan be going bad? could I put my stock fan back on for the time being with out the shroud?
First the temp was sitting around the half way mark and goes up a bit from there when sitting still, even with the heater on full blast (though it doesn't feel like it used to). My e-fan seems to be spinning a little slower than usual so I went to check the thermostad/relay and it was very hot, as well as the fuse, I checked all the connections and they all are good, This all just happened today!
I have a none OEM thermostad in there that seemed to work fine for a while, I just got one from Mazda the other day and am gonna put it in to see if it helps....But about the hot power wires from the fan, could my feiro fan be going bad? could I put my stock fan back on for the time being with out the shroud?
could I put my stock fan back on for the time being with out the shroud?
rx7blazin seems to swear by it
i would try hardwiring the fan to the battery as a test, to see if it spins any faster than with your other wiring job.. if it DOES, then i would be weary of the relay perhaps on its last legs or something..
Thread Starter
Daily Domestic Killer
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: San Antonio, Tx, USA
Yeah I have it hooked up to an ignition lead now so it turns on when I turn the car on, I think the relay blew becasue after I was messing with it it didn't want to work. Anyway I think I have a coolent leak on the line that I capped off on the water pump housing because I checked the coolent level and it was pretty low. I have sinced filled it up and my temps seen fine now.
I really need to get a new coolent level sensor......
I really need to get a new coolent level sensor......
as a side note, relays do get decently warm when there is current flowing through them for a lengthy period of time..
but still.. if your suspicious of it, i would replace the relay.. if its the type im thinking of, its only a few bucks at an auto store..
better to just replace it than wait for it to actually die out when you least expect..
but still.. if your suspicious of it, i would replace the relay.. if its the type im thinking of, its only a few bucks at an auto store..
better to just replace it than wait for it to actually die out when you least expect..
Thread Starter
Daily Domestic Killer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,425
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From: San Antonio, Tx, USA
but about the hot wires and fuse? its hooked up to an ignition lead so the fan comes one when the key is in the on postion the connections are rock solid could the fan be going bad?
Thread Starter
Daily Domestic Killer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,425
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From: San Antonio, Tx, USA
okay here are some pics I just took, of course black is the ground red is power....I didn't color over any connections just wire...I am using the wire that came with the fan, its about 8-6 gauge wire.
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um..
doesnt look like 8-6 gauge.. looks more like 10-12! if it is 8 gauge, thats pretty ****** thick wire!
so.. is it connected to the 12v ign signal source off the green plug harness? and then fused? and then goes to the fan?
doesnt look like 8-6 gauge.. looks more like 10-12!
if it is 8 gauge, thats pretty ****** thick wire! so.. is it connected to the 12v ign signal source off the green plug harness? and then fused? and then goes to the fan?
thats BAD! 
dont connect it through that harness.. it will burn up.. the gauge on those stock wires is too small..
you need to use that as a signal going into a relay..
a relay is basically a switch, but instead of flipping the switch with your finger, a 12v "signal" flips it for you.. so you use the signal from that harness (personaly i use the AAS harness for the ignition 12v signal) on the relay to open up a switch that can handle the higher current.
dont connect it through that harness.. it will burn up.. the gauge on those stock wires is too small..
you need to use that as a signal going into a relay..
a relay is basically a switch, but instead of flipping the switch with your finger, a 12v "signal" flips it for you.. so you use the signal from that harness (personaly i use the AAS harness for the ignition 12v signal) on the relay to open up a switch that can handle the higher current.
the one you make
12v signal and ground are the terminals on the bottom that flip the switch
10g = 10 gauge or whatever gauge you want
10g from batt is straight up wire right from the battery (you may want to fuse this.. the relay usually can only handle ~30 amps)
the far terminal titled 10g to efan is whatever gauge you want, just wire it right to the e-fan power.
(the ground wire that goes to the efan should just go right to a ground on the battery or on the chassis or something)
the "dont use" terminal you dont need. but, just for the record, the switch is capable of doing 2 things. when there is no 12v signal, or the relay is "off", then the power coming from the battery goes to the "dont use" termnal. we dont use it because then when the key is off, its sending power to something. so when the 12v signal flips the switch, it changes and sends power from the 10g to batt terminal to the 10g to e-fan.
hope this makes sense.
12v signal and ground are the terminals on the bottom that flip the switch
10g = 10 gauge or whatever gauge you want
10g from batt is straight up wire right from the battery (you may want to fuse this.. the relay usually can only handle ~30 amps)
the far terminal titled 10g to efan is whatever gauge you want, just wire it right to the e-fan power.
(the ground wire that goes to the efan should just go right to a ground on the battery or on the chassis or something)
the "dont use" terminal you dont need. but, just for the record, the switch is capable of doing 2 things. when there is no 12v signal, or the relay is "off", then the power coming from the battery goes to the "dont use" termnal. we dont use it because then when the key is off, its sending power to something. so when the 12v signal flips the switch, it changes and sends power from the 10g to batt terminal to the 10g to e-fan.
hope this makes sense.
Last edited by Black13B; Jun 30, 2003 at 09:44 AM.
Like Ghandi with a gun
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
From: Rapid City, SD
LOL thats an awesome picture, wasn't expecting it. Looks like something I would make honestly...
This might help, Relay terminal references:
86 - Body Ground
30 - Power to fan
85 - Trigger/Switch Wire (to coil pack)
87a - 12+ Power from battery (with inline fuse)
Also here is my webpage on it, has some pretty clear pictures to as where the wires should go. Check it out.
This might help, Relay terminal references:
86 - Body Ground
30 - Power to fan
85 - Trigger/Switch Wire (to coil pack)
87a - 12+ Power from battery (with inline fuse)
Also here is my webpage on it, has some pretty clear pictures to as where the wires should go. Check it out.
Originally posted by Black13B
the one you make
12v signal and ground are the terminals on the bottom that flip the switch
10g = 10 gauge or whatever gauge you want
10g from batt is straight up wire right from the battery (you may want to fuse this.. the relay usually can only handle ~30 amps)
the far terminal titled 10g to efan is whatever gauge you want, just wire it right to the e-fan power.
(the ground wire that goes to the efan should just go right to a ground on the battery or on the chassis or something)
the "dont use" terminal you dont need. but, just for the record, the switch is capable of doing 2 things. when there is no 12v signal, or the relay is "off", then the power coming from the battery goes to the "dont use" termnal. we dont use it because then when the key is off, its sending power to something. so when the 12v signal flips the switch, it changes and sends power from the 10g to batt terminal to the 10g to e-fan.
hope this makes sense.
the one you make
12v signal and ground are the terminals on the bottom that flip the switch
10g = 10 gauge or whatever gauge you want
10g from batt is straight up wire right from the battery (you may want to fuse this.. the relay usually can only handle ~30 amps)
the far terminal titled 10g to efan is whatever gauge you want, just wire it right to the e-fan power.
(the ground wire that goes to the efan should just go right to a ground on the battery or on the chassis or something)
the "dont use" terminal you dont need. but, just for the record, the switch is capable of doing 2 things. when there is no 12v signal, or the relay is "off", then the power coming from the battery goes to the "dont use" termnal. we dont use it because then when the key is off, its sending power to something. so when the 12v signal flips the switch, it changes and sends power from the 10g to batt terminal to the 10g to e-fan.
hope this makes sense.
Like Ghandi with a gun
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
From: Rapid City, SD
LOL thats an awesome picture, wasn't expecting it. Looks like something I would make honestly...
This might help, Relay terminal references:
86 - Body Ground
30 - Power to fan
85 - Trigger/Switch Wire (to coil pack)
87a - 12+ Power from battery (with inline fuse)
Also here is my webpage on it, has some pretty clear pictures to as where the wires should go. Check it out.
This might help, Relay terminal references:
86 - Body Ground
30 - Power to fan
85 - Trigger/Switch Wire (to coil pack)
87a - 12+ Power from battery (with inline fuse)
Also here is my webpage on it, has some pretty clear pictures to as where the wires should go. Check it out.
Originally posted by Black13B
the one you make
12v signal and ground are the terminals on the bottom that flip the switch
10g = 10 gauge or whatever gauge you want
10g from batt is straight up wire right from the battery (you may want to fuse this.. the relay usually can only handle ~30 amps)
the far terminal titled 10g to efan is whatever gauge you want, just wire it right to the e-fan power.
(the ground wire that goes to the efan should just go right to a ground on the battery or on the chassis or something)
the "dont use" terminal you dont need. but, just for the record, the switch is capable of doing 2 things. when there is no 12v signal, or the relay is "off", then the power coming from the battery goes to the "dont use" termnal. we dont use it because then when the key is off, its sending power to something. so when the 12v signal flips the switch, it changes and sends power from the 10g to batt terminal to the 10g to e-fan.
hope this makes sense.
the one you make
12v signal and ground are the terminals on the bottom that flip the switch
10g = 10 gauge or whatever gauge you want
10g from batt is straight up wire right from the battery (you may want to fuse this.. the relay usually can only handle ~30 amps)
the far terminal titled 10g to efan is whatever gauge you want, just wire it right to the e-fan power.
(the ground wire that goes to the efan should just go right to a ground on the battery or on the chassis or something)
the "dont use" terminal you dont need. but, just for the record, the switch is capable of doing 2 things. when there is no 12v signal, or the relay is "off", then the power coming from the battery goes to the "dont use" termnal. we dont use it because then when the key is off, its sending power to something. so when the 12v signal flips the switch, it changes and sends power from the 10g to batt terminal to the 10g to e-fan.
hope this makes sense.
Like Ghandi with a gun
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
From: Rapid City, SD
oh webpage is here: www.sd-fc3s.net
could be your voltages.
If your heater doesn't feel at hot it could be that the motor isnt' moving as fast. Thus less heat being pulled to you.
I had a similar problem with my FD alt. I had it underdriven and at 850rpm couldn't keep up.
My fan would run off the batt and you could hear the fan slow down. Have someone rev the gas and if the fan get louder or spins faster you need more juice.
could be clogged system but i doubt. It's an easy check so i'd try it.
btw i had that same fan once. Was pretty good until it shitted a blade
If your heater doesn't feel at hot it could be that the motor isnt' moving as fast. Thus less heat being pulled to you.
I had a similar problem with my FD alt. I had it underdriven and at 850rpm couldn't keep up.
My fan would run off the batt and you could hear the fan slow down. Have someone rev the gas and if the fan get louder or spins faster you need more juice.
could be clogged system but i doubt. It's an easy check so i'd try it.
btw i had that same fan once. Was pretty good until it shitted a blade
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