For all those looking to replace your mechanical clutch radiator fan with a wrecking yard electrical fan, this is an excellent how-to so install is as factory like as can be.

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/section...ntpage&artid=1

 

seeing the pictures of those relay diagrams just makes me smile for some reason

 

I don't uderstand why he has 2 relays ??? unless he plans to put more then 30 amps to the fan which I highly doubt.

or maybe as backup if one failed.

 

"The double relays are necessary unless you have a fan that uses less than 30 amps"

I believe the Taurus the fan came from calls for a dedicated 50 amp fuse. Thus, two 30 amp relays.

The thermo switch can only handle 16 amps by itself. So certainly a relay will be needed if you want an as needed fan.

 

ooppss

 

ooppss

I couldn't get the delete button to work for me.

Thanks

 

Why not just get a 45amp relay or higher? That's what I'm using

 

2 small relays do not equal one large one




That install sucks to be honest with you.

Especially the scotch lock, these should never be used on a vehicle as they are vibration prone, they are also refered to as "short locks" as to their problematic tendancy.

 

Scotchlocks, T-taps, whatever you call them, yes they definitely suck. Such little area for runnng current through. I'd be terrified to run anything that draws 30 amps through them. 2 small fuses equals 1 big one. Why not 2 relays?

 

The ones I had couldn't even break through 14 gauge wire using pliers...

 

Scotchlocks are bad.

I know it's been stated above, but we need some serious emphasis on that.

 

The person who wrote that seems to be lacking some very basic electronics knowledge. Specifically. paralleling two relays. This does not double the current they can carry. Why? Well, because both relays don't turn on and off at the same time. This is when the wear occurs. An arc is created when a relay makes or breaks contact. Because you have to mechanical arms moving, there is some variation and one will almost always turn on/off before the other. This means that it bears the full load of the current draw, and thus draws a fairly decent sized arc. This pits contacts, causes carbon build up, etc. Using 1 relay that can handle the current would have been the proper thing to do.

FWIW, I have a writeup like this targeted toward the FC owner that will be posted when I update my website. It is fairly detailed, with proper schematics, etc. But it won't be up for months.

 

I use 2 relays, but one is to ground the AWS solenoid.
I put a plug in the AWS hose with a 1/16” hole, so that when the fan comes on, the alternator doesn't stall the engine.

 

Typical Bosh type relays are designed for 30 amps. Where would one get a relay designed to handle 45-60 amps that is also designed to withstand the heat and stress's of being in an engine bay?

 

This outa do the trick
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...pe=575&PTSet=A

or Bosch part#0 332 002 156
from here http://www.bpg-inc.com/bpghome.html

 

I agree that paralleling two contacts each at 50% of duty is inadequate. However, we can dampen the current transient with a choke and capacitor for reactance. Impeding the load spike inline with a coil, and shunting the spike to ground with a capacitor is good for increasing life of a switched system, but adding enough dampening to allow for for wide variations in relay switching times approaches the cost of a properly rated relay.

Anyone have data about how this electrical load affects ignition performance?

 

Wait what the hell is going on? Theres no pic of the e-fan...What e-fan did he use>??

 

Exactly. Why would you do this when a properly sized relay is most certainly cheaper then a (high current) choke coil and decently rated capacitor?

BTW, my writeup, for anyone who cares, is now at http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm