Ok,,, tested the egr valve and its shot,,,,,(took off the hose from the first solenoid to the egr,,,,,,, the hose going to the egr, i could blow air into it like it was straw,,,,same thing while sucking air,,,,,,was unrestricted totally)

im going to block it off,,,,but i dont really know whats involved,,,,it looks like i can just take off the intake and put on a plate.

But its never that easy,,,,for you that have done this, can you tell me what gaskets and other things ill need to do this.

1. block off plate and gasket (of course)
2. new rubber hoses (mine are all brittle and will break trying to remove)
3. ?
4. ?
5. ?


thanks
Brent Lenig

 

this might sound wierd and ill get flammed for this but we have a egr system ???

 

youll need the gasket for the uim, and if there is one for the dynamic chamber to the uim, and if your gonna take all that apart REPLACE the pd while your down there... will prevent you from worrying about an engine fire... and if you want to go crazy port the intakes while you have them off too... theres a write up in the lounge

 

egr means exhaust gas recirculation.

 

70's emission **** to lower NOx. emissions aren't for rotaries..hehe

 

only s4 had egr, s5 and jspec do not.

 

Go to HomeDepot. Buy a small piece of sheet steel/aluminum. Lay the EGR on top of it. Trace the outline. Drill two holes thru the sheet metal for the attach holes. Buy some gasket paper from PepBoys for a buck fifty. Trace the outline or the EGR on it and punch two holes in the paper. Make two gaskets. Walla. Now you reinstall the EGR with the sheet metal b/t the housing and the EGR. A very fine blockoff indeed for cheap. Better than buying a blockoff plate. Block the off the end of the vacuum hose that went to the EGR with some RTV inserted into the hole, and let dry for an hour.

Unless you rip the intake manifold gasket there will be no need for a new one. Reinstall the old one if not destroyed on removal. Put a smear of vaseline on the mating surface the gasket did not stick to and a smear, I said a smear, of RTV on the face of the old gasket. Install.

While at PepBoys buy about five feet of vacuum line. Cut the old vacuum lines off using a razor blade so you don't destroy the plastic nipples on the solenoids. Cut the new line to fit. One at a time. Cost...about two bucks and will last for ten years.

 

Huh?? All you have to do is take off the EGR and put a block off plate in its place. Its really that easy.

-Joe

 

I just decided to rethink this. So the diaphram in the EGR is busted and you can blow thru it. Big deal. What about just capping off the nipple ON the EGR? And the vac line going to it? If the diaphram is busted inside the EGR, it does not follow that there is air passing from the exaust to the intake. It just means the diaphram is busted and won't cause the valve to open the passage from the exaust to the intake side. Follow? Just a thought in passing.

 

HAILERS,,,,you know....? thats not a bad idea,,,,im just trying to get the car to run right,might work,,,instead of going through the trouble of removing intake i might try that first.

BUT??!!

if the egr is causing the bad idle,,,,would that solve the idle problem (just capping vac lines)?

anyone else got comments about that

 

You can just reuse all the gaskets of the things you take off with a little silicone/gasket maker added to them. I've done this plenty of times with no problem, even used silicone/gasket maker by itself.

 

You could use the Aluminum flashing and the old EGR valve. Or you could get the blockoff plate from Racing beat. Both options would cost about the same. I'd do the blockoff plate from RB. Infact I did that on mine. I agree, Make sure you replace the PD on that car. It can save you a lot of $. As far as getting to the EGR it's pretty cut and dry. Might take you a half-hour to get it off. I think I'd also seriously consider replacing those hard to get to coolant hoses too. You will not regret doing it while it's all apart.

 

Recommend you re-test EGR valve as FSM indicates different test procedure than you used.

FSM EGR valve test:

1. Warm engine to idle
2. Disconnect vacuum hose from EGR solenoid valve
3. Apply vacuum to EGR valve with vacuum pump
4. Confirm engine runs rough or stalls

Gordon

 

There's not much use doing the fsm test since.....the diaphrams busted. It ain't gonna prove anything except the diaphram is busted. Busted diaphram means the valve the diaphram it is attached to won't open.....which in turn means the idle won't change by passing exaust gas into the intake port.

There is one place that can and will cause a irratic idle IF you've satisfied yourself that you don't have a bad vac hose somewhere. That place is the ACV. On the whole the ACV does not port any air into the intake system, so normally you'd think that it can't cause a idle problem. But there is one part of the ACV that does on occasion, by design , put air into the intake. That is the part of the ACV called the anti-afterburn valve. On deceleration that part of the ACV ports a small portion of air into the intake to prevent small backfires.

Again its not hard to determine if this is a problem. Idle the car. REmove the air hose that runs b/t the air filter assy and the airpump. Spray. Just remove the end on the air filter assy. Spray some STARTER FLUID into the hose in the direction of the airpump. If the idle changes.....then the valve in the ACV is leaking unauthorized air into the intake when it should not. The remedy is not a new ACV. The remedy is to remove the ACV, and using RTV to block the two small holes that feed air into the intake manifold. I posted a picture on the other site showing these two SMALL holes. If I can find that jpg I'll post it. If not....I won't.

Bottom line.......cap off the vac line to the EGR. You might want to do another thing. Put a vac hose on the EGR's vac nipple and idle the car. Feel with your tounge the end of the vac hose. If you don't feel a suction or pressure.....then all's probably well as far as leaks thru the EGR's valving.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=33071 I used black RTV in these two holes. It's a turbo ACV, I think. N/A is similar. Just those two holes. NO other holes to be blocked at all ever. Put a smear of RTV on your gasket prior to reinstallation and a smear of vaseline on its mating surface, then bolt down.