EFI Harness ground....
#1
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EFI Harness ground....
Wondering if anyone has pics or information about this ground, i'm grounding it tommorow and would like a pic atleast to know that i'm grounding the proper thing....
anymore information/hints are greatly appreciated....
anymore information/hints are greatly appreciated....
#3
I break Diff mounts
iTrader: (1)
The EFI harness ground on a FC TII?
If so then It's a ring terminal under the UIM.
The rack which holds the end cap of the TB has 2 12mm screws to the engine block. I think it goes to the one closest to the firewall but it shouldn;t matter as long as you make a clean contact surface(sand it to get bare metal)
As some over kill.
You could string an extra wire from that ring terminal spot to the firewall as well.
Then reground your boost sensor on the pass fender.
Then get a beefy cable for a negative to fender/strut ground.
Good luck and be careful with some of the wires under there. Some are brittle.
Actually here's an old pic I have.
You can kind of see it on the bottom left of the block.
If so then It's a ring terminal under the UIM.
The rack which holds the end cap of the TB has 2 12mm screws to the engine block. I think it goes to the one closest to the firewall but it shouldn;t matter as long as you make a clean contact surface(sand it to get bare metal)
As some over kill.
You could string an extra wire from that ring terminal spot to the firewall as well.
Then reground your boost sensor on the pass fender.
Then get a beefy cable for a negative to fender/strut ground.
Good luck and be careful with some of the wires under there. Some are brittle.
Actually here's an old pic I have.
You can kind of see it on the bottom left of the block.
Last edited by Digi7ech; 07-24-06 at 08:03 PM.
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ahh, it's near all of your fancy blue hoses and such?...
it's the one that looks brown/black, correct?...
so i ground that to the firewall as you say, or to the strut-tower and i should be good?...
it's the one that looks brown/black, correct?...
so i ground that to the firewall as you say, or to the strut-tower and i should be good?...
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#8
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
yup.
Any bolt really but linking ground wires directly helps make sure they are all on the same level instead of having one which the resistance may differ.
Any bolt really but linking ground wires directly helps make sure they are all on the same level instead of having one which the resistance may differ.
i'm about to run out to the garage to start work on this....
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i just realized i already grounded this, i grounded the front bolt on the front rotor housing to the strut tower, and didnt touch the rear rotor housing....
would it be in my best interest to ground the rear-rotor housing aswell?...
and if so, should i run a very short ground-strap from the front rotor housing, to the rear?, and aswell having the front to the strut tower and rear to the firewall, just for good measure?...
also, is there anything else under the UIM that i should ground?, i was told there's something near the injectors that i should ground, to get to the one's on the rotor housings, i didnt have to move anything, i have a FMIC though....
would it be in my best interest to ground the rear-rotor housing aswell?...
and if so, should i run a very short ground-strap from the front rotor housing, to the rear?, and aswell having the front to the strut tower and rear to the firewall, just for good measure?...
also, is there anything else under the UIM that i should ground?, i was told there's something near the injectors that i should ground, to get to the one's on the rotor housings, i didnt have to move anything, i have a FMIC though....
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Originally Posted by xboxthug13b
Can somebody post a pic of the ground to strut tower? I don't recall seeing one on my car
i just used the bolts ontop of the strut tower, the bolts that connect to your strut assembly....
#12
I break Diff mounts
iTrader: (1)
The whole Idea of regrounding everything is to try and keep the reistance as close to 0 ohms and keeping continuity between the part and ECU.
The stock harnesses usually end up getting cruddy and start to develop reisistance or maybe the wire breaks all together causing an open circuit.
The entire metal chassic of the car is one big terminal for the ground. Anything which isn't conductive has a possibilty of adding resistance. A rubber gasket between body panels, The RTV between metal pieces,etc...
Linking ground wires acts like a bridge to help step over these possible barriers.
That way if the original electrical path is cut off or getting bad it has another way to go to get to the final destination. It's a redundency thing.
If you wanted to do it the perfect way you would test places before adding a ground wire.
Like using an ohmmeter to see of you get resistance between the EFI ring terminal and the ECU plug, or the battery,or the firewall.
If one doesn't go well or even connect then Add a ground wire to it.
The stock harnesses usually end up getting cruddy and start to develop reisistance or maybe the wire breaks all together causing an open circuit.
The entire metal chassic of the car is one big terminal for the ground. Anything which isn't conductive has a possibilty of adding resistance. A rubber gasket between body panels, The RTV between metal pieces,etc...
Linking ground wires acts like a bridge to help step over these possible barriers.
That way if the original electrical path is cut off or getting bad it has another way to go to get to the final destination. It's a redundency thing.
If you wanted to do it the perfect way you would test places before adding a ground wire.
Like using an ohmmeter to see of you get resistance between the EFI ring terminal and the ECU plug, or the battery,or the firewall.
If one doesn't go well or even connect then Add a ground wire to it.
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
The whole Idea of regrounding everything is to try and keep the reistance as close to 0 ohms and keeping continuity between the part and ECU.
The stock harnesses usually end up getting cruddy and start to develop reisistance or maybe the wire breaks all together causing an open circuit.
The entire metal chassic of the car is one big terminal for the ground. Anything which isn't conductive has a possibilty of adding resistance. A rubber gasket between body panels, The RTV between metal pieces,etc...
Linking ground wires acts like a bridge to help step over these possible barriers.
That way if the original electrical path is cut off or getting bad it has another way to go to get to the final destination. It's a redundency thing.
If you wanted to do it the perfect way you would test places before adding a ground wire.
Like using an ohmmeter to see of you get resistance between the EFI ring terminal and the ECU plug, or the battery,or the firewall.
If one doesn't go well or even connect then Add a ground wire to it.
The stock harnesses usually end up getting cruddy and start to develop reisistance or maybe the wire breaks all together causing an open circuit.
The entire metal chassic of the car is one big terminal for the ground. Anything which isn't conductive has a possibilty of adding resistance. A rubber gasket between body panels, The RTV between metal pieces,etc...
Linking ground wires acts like a bridge to help step over these possible barriers.
That way if the original electrical path is cut off or getting bad it has another way to go to get to the final destination. It's a redundency thing.
If you wanted to do it the perfect way you would test places before adding a ground wire.
Like using an ohmmeter to see of you get resistance between the EFI ring terminal and the ECU plug, or the battery,or the firewall.
If one doesn't go well or even connect then Add a ground wire to it.
i'm going to try and sand down some of the connections i've made to ensure that they are clean aswell....
i hope this works....
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