ecu n/a to fd3s
If that is even workable, I am sure everyone else would agree with me when I suggest getting a standalone system. You can get a haltech that plugs directly into the factory harness.
because No
lmao jk
maybe if you swapped everything but why?
stock **** should be good for 250hp anyways lol.
and if your planing to build up numbers , you obviously have the money for turbo = should also have money for proper stand alone.
get the fd intake manifold setup and mate it. reported nice gains when you do it properly with a fmic.
good luck! make us proud!
lmao jk
maybe if you swapped everything but why?
stock **** should be good for 250hp anyways lol.
and if your planing to build up numbers , you obviously have the money for turbo = should also have money for proper stand alone.
get the fd intake manifold setup and mate it. reported nice gains when you do it properly with a fmic.
good luck! make us proud!
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
It's a ridiculous idea. You would need to swap on the REW front cover and triggers. Not sure how that effects the water pump but I'm betting it would require the FD water pump and pulleys.
The effort to figure out the wiring would be a bit crazy. You'd need FD ignition coils (which are generally considered vastly inferior to the 2nd gen coils) as well as all of the FD sensors.
By the time you've sourced the parts and made it work, you would have been far better off with a cheaper standalone which you can actually tune.
The effort to figure out the wiring would be a bit crazy. You'd need FD ignition coils (which are generally considered vastly inferior to the 2nd gen coils) as well as all of the FD sensors.
By the time you've sourced the parts and made it work, you would have been far better off with a cheaper standalone which you can actually tune.
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You do realize that FD's don't even run the stock FD ECU? The stock FD ECU will lean out risk blowing your motor with much more than a catback, plus you will need to install resistors in all of the emissions solenoids so you don't throw a code.
I would not try to use the stock 3rd gen ecu unless you have a 3rd gen setup in the car. The reason being that it's map based and you are not going to have anywhere near the same tuning requirements with a turbo on an n/a engine as a 3rd gen engine does. It may start but you have VERY high odds of blowing it up the first time you get on it. That kind of defeats the purpose of using it in the first place. You can't just swap the ecu and injectors and expect it to work. A map based system MUST be tuned to a specific setup and unless yours matches that of a stock REW engine and turbo setup, and it won't, it's not tuned properly. Even running the same amount of boost isn't going to make it even. Just don't try it. If you insist on using a 3rd gen style ecu, the only thing you should even remotely be considering is the adapter with a Power FC.
The other option which may better benefit you is to run an RTEK ecu for your car. It is tunable. It's basically a chipped stock ecu that you can now tune which is actually quite nice. However if you intend to go turbo you need to use a TII ecu as your starting point and then make the appropriate changes to the harness. This would probably be your best option. Don't worry about it still using the air flow meter. They are eventually going to have this deleted. Besides if you are going to turbo an n/a engine, get any idea of 400 hp out of your head (assuming it was in there at all!). You'll realistically be getting somewhere around 250 hp whether you like it or not and an RTEK still using the air flow meter is quite adequate for this purpose.
If you want to save time and money, just leave the engine NA.
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