2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

ECU air temperature sensor voltage

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Old May 27, 2004 | 09:35 AM
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ECU air temperature sensor voltage

Any of you (HAILERS ?) has real voltage readings for the air temperature sensors after 10-20 minutes stop and go driving.

Here are mine on a 52F day (engine idling - base voltage = 14.4V - cone intake) ...

Air flow meter temperature sensor (2J) = 1.2V (was 2.8V when started)
Dynamic chamber temperature sensor (2L) = 3.0V (was 4.3V when started)

Something tells me it may not be in specs.

I haven't had a chance to check if the sensors themselves are ok w/r to resistance, but will do soon.

just felt like posting today,
Hugues -
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Old May 27, 2004 | 12:27 PM
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there is a test for it in the FSM.
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Old May 28, 2004 | 10:50 AM
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Ok. It's b/t 75 and 80 degrees outside and the car is stone cold dead.

Before the engine start the 2J (AFM) reads 4.18v.......the Intake Air Temp (2L) reads 2.44v

Now we do an approx 20 miles drive at 65mph on Interstate 20. Ten miles out and....darn the same milage back. What a coincidence!

At the end of the ten miles out and before coming to a stop, 2J reads 3.83v and 2L reads 1.90v

On the way back the readings are a bit different. Near the end of the trip the 2J reads 3.81 and the 2L reads 1.75v, and they've read that most of the way back.

Now before we get to the house we get to stop at a train stop to watch a two mile long train pass by. At the end of the train the 2J reads 3.36v and the 2L reads 1.50v and both dropping fast (heat soak).

I had two meters sitting side by side. At one time I was confused about which meter was connected to which pin. I'm ninty percent I wrote down the right figures for each pin. I'll look again tomorrow sometime to be sure.

The new KOYO wouldn't let the water temps get above 165 degrees. On one hand that Seems good. On the other Not good. Not a big deal but bothers me a touch. That has nothing to do with the figures above. Just a side note.

EDIT: AW SCREW IT. I LOOKED AT YOUR FIGURES JUST NOW AND I'M ALMOST POSITIVE I GOT THE 2L AND 2J SWAPPED *** BACKWARDS. I'LL TAKE A LOOK TOMORROW WHEN I'M GOT THE TIME. IT'S OBVIOUS I'M A ONE WIRE CIRCUIT KINDA GUY. MORE THAN ONE WIRE JUST CONFUSES ME. TOO COMPLICATED

Last edited by HAILERS; May 28, 2004 at 10:54 AM.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 01:42 AM
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
**Air flow meter temperature sensor (2J) = 1.2V (was 2.8V when started)
Dynamic chamber temperature sensor (2L) = 3.0V (was 4.3V when started)**

Those numbers were similar to those I saw when I arrived at work today. Either both our cars are bad or both are normal. I vote for normal
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Old May 29, 2004 | 09:39 AM
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Thanks HAILERS for those numbers (excellent contribution to this forum) ... so your numbers are switched in previous long post ... if so, similar to mine, a tad higher. Cool beans.

Do you have cone intake with or without cold air ducting ?
or do you have stock air box ?

I want to see what diffs are when I put back my stock air box. I'll do that some day (put back the stock stuff).

I have noticed the voltage at the AFM is very touchy ... heat soak prone.
but voltage at dynamic chamber is not as touchy ... does not go down as much when idling after a good run.

My water thermosensor, once warmed up, stays at about the same voltage (about .5 V if I recall correctly).

hugues -
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 10:17 AM
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Well, let me reply to my own post ...

As promised, I put back my stock intake to see what would happen to the voltage I am getting for the AFM temperature sensor ...

Outside temp at about 60 F ...

Air flow meter temperature sensor (2J) = 1.8V (was 2.8V when started)

Used to be (with cone intake) on a sligthly cooler day:
Air flow meter temperature sensor (2J) = 1.2V (was 2.8V when started)

This means the temperature is higher with the cone intake, which was to be expected ... too bad I don't know by how much ...

Hugues -
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 12:12 PM
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
This post https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...r&pagenumber=1 and the second page. Don't read the first page....it's confusing because at one point I had the numbers swapped in one jpg, although I explained that near the end of the post on the first page.

NEVER run a car with a open pod in the engine bay. If you do, your just ******* yourself. OOps, did I use that word?? My, my.
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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yep, cone pod that's not sealed and ducted to the outside looks like a big waste.

What's the air path on the stock airbox ... before the inlet on the fan shroud ?

Hugues -
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