DJW3

I'm trying to remove the front clip off my J-spec S-5 engine and it just wont budge.
Is there something simple I'm missing out on; reverse threads or something.

So far I've tried an impact gun (1/2" Craftsman 400rev ft/lbs), WD-40, flywheel lock with 3' breaker bar and 2 people. The only thing I was left with is the knot that's still on my face after 2 days from a projectile pry bar.

I'll recheck my factory service manual but assistance is still much appreciated.
Thank you!

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Ok, this sounds stupid but it happen to me the very first time I tried to remove the bolt. Did you removed the bracket\washer? There's a bracket that bolts to the pulley, the center of the bracket goes to the inside of the pulley, holding the hub bolt on its place.

EDIT - After looking at the manual, it only shows it as a washer, my T2 engine had the same whasher style, however the 6 port engine had the bracket typ washer that I was talking about

SDrotary-FC

have 2 guys hold down the motor and get a 5 foot breaker bar it usally works

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

We've covered this many times before. Search for "eccentric bolt removal" or variations on that theme.

Basically, it's torqued to 90 ft-LBS from the factory with PLENTY of Loctite. Some builders will just crank down on it until it reaches several hundred pounds (which is quite wrong, by the way).

You need to heat it to release the Loctite. And find the biggest, baddest impact you can. Standard threading is used.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I had to take a TII motor the a friend that worked at the Ford dealership. He hit it with a 3/4" impact to finally get it off. Heat is your friend for the red locktite.

DJW3

I do think it was rebuilt before. The warmup wax had no vac lines on it and there are metal gaskets all over. They probably did overtighten it. And I didnt see any bracket, but I'll still check it out. Thanks for the advice. I'll fill you in later.
Well I'm off again...