Easy to get running, or not?
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Easy to get running, or not?
I'm thinking about buying a '90 GTU that does not run. The owner says:
"The car does not run. It has compression, fuel and spark. I have been told that it may just need fuel injectors. It does act like too much fuel is being dumped into the engine. The engine has been replaced, the car has not ran since. The engine came from a salvage yard who said the engine was running at the time."
How easy would it be to get this car running do you think? It sounds like the engine hasn't been run for a long time. Any ideas on getting this car to run. If so, I could pick this up for a steal.
"The car does not run. It has compression, fuel and spark. I have been told that it may just need fuel injectors. It does act like too much fuel is being dumped into the engine. The engine has been replaced, the car has not ran since. The engine came from a salvage yard who said the engine was running at the time."
How easy would it be to get this car running do you think? It sounds like the engine hasn't been run for a long time. Any ideas on getting this car to run. If so, I could pick this up for a steal.
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I don't have the car, I'm asking if it would be worth it for me to buy.
If 13luAcid's ideas work, this could be a really cheap fix. But I'm not sure if I trust him since he think's it has cylinders and thinks that there is a 13A.
If 13luAcid's ideas work, this could be a really cheap fix. But I'm not sure if I trust him since he think's it has cylinders and thinks that there is a 13A.
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Originally posted by silverrotor
The best thing to do Is a compression test yourself. Is the car worth picking up even though It may have a dead Engine?
The best thing to do Is a compression test yourself. Is the car worth picking up even though It may have a dead Engine?
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I'm going to look at this car in a few hours. He said he put a new engine in it, but doesn't know if it's an S4 or S5. Is there a way of telling if it's a S4 or S5 engine by looking at it?
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Originally posted by Jinx099
It probably is, but I'm going to go look at it today. How much doesa compression test kit cost?
It probably is, but I'm going to go look at it today. How much doesa compression test kit cost?
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I saw the car today and noticed a few things. First was when the engine was cranked over, you could almost immediatley smell the gas. I'm not sure what that means, maybe somebody more experienced could help with that one.
Second was that when it was cranked over, the tach did not move at all. This leads me to believe that either the tach gauge is disconnected (which seems unlikely), OR that the coils are not correctly hooked up. Any ideas on that one?
I think I may try to pick this one up for at least a learning experience if nothing else for a few hundred.
Second was that when it was cranked over, the tach did not move at all. This leads me to believe that either the tach gauge is disconnected (which seems unlikely), OR that the coils are not correctly hooked up. Any ideas on that one?
I think I may try to pick this one up for at least a learning experience if nothing else for a few hundred.
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If it never ran after the engine install, there could be any number of little things that could be wrong. OR the engine could be dead. Do NOT rely on the owner's assertion that the engine was running in a junk yard...
When negotiating the price, assume the engine is dead. Is the shell worth the price you're paying?
CW
When negotiating the price, assume the engine is dead. Is the shell worth the price you're paying?
CW
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here's the car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6327
The body is straight except for a few door dings on the passenger side door. I'm going to ask him how he knows it has compression fuel and spark.
Any more thoughts? What do you guys think it's worth?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6327
The body is straight except for a few door dings on the passenger side door. I'm going to ask him how he knows it has compression fuel and spark.
Any more thoughts? What do you guys think it's worth?
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>$1K for sure. If I had some wrenching chops, I'd offer him $500 and walk away if he won't go for it.
Remember, just because the junkyard SAID it ran, don't make it so. And even if it ran THEN, no tellin if'n it'll run NOW.
CW
Remember, just because the junkyard SAID it ran, don't make it so. And even if it ran THEN, no tellin if'n it'll run NOW.
CW
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Originally posted by Cwaters
>$1K for sure. If I had some wrenching chops, I'd offer him $500 and walk away if he won't go for it.
Remember, just because the junkyard SAID it ran, don't make it so. And even if it ran THEN, no tellin if'n it'll run NOW.
CW
>$1K for sure. If I had some wrenching chops, I'd offer him $500 and walk away if he won't go for it.
Remember, just because the junkyard SAID it ran, don't make it so. And even if it ran THEN, no tellin if'n it'll run NOW.
CW
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I tested the spark and not exactly sure on the compression but with the plugs out it pushes alot of gas out and and if you put your finger on the hole, it has pressure. I dont know much more about that part of it. I tested all the wires from the ecm. to each coil pack. They all ohms out. The car came into the shop I got it from not running. The kid that owned it asked them to put a motor into the car. The car still did not run after that, only prob. is that I dont know if they replaced only the block or a complete change (injectors, alt etc.) I had a guy from MR. Mazda look at it (just by listening not diag.) and he said it sounded like it was dumping to much fuel.
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Originally posted by 13luAcid
Take the plugs out and put a little diesel into the cylenders, let it sit for a bit crank it with out spark, the try again after that. OR it may be your computer.
Take the plugs out and put a little diesel into the cylenders, let it sit for a bit crank it with out spark, the try again after that. OR it may be your computer.
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Yeah the guy obviously doesn't know anything about rotaries, the way he wrote that email, I would not be too confident in the car and only bid as if it had a dead engine.
#20
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The car is flooded. 4 spark plugs, a couple of squirts of oil in each chamber and a good battery will probably get the car started.
There is fuel, so you don't have to check that. Air? Make sure the Air flow meter is plugged in. Spark? Make sure the plug wires are connected properly. Check the ENGINE FUSES. Are any blown?
When the tach doesn't move, its usually a sign that the trailing coil is dead or not connected.
There is fuel, so you don't have to check that. Air? Make sure the Air flow meter is plugged in. Spark? Make sure the plug wires are connected properly. Check the ENGINE FUSES. Are any blown?
When the tach doesn't move, its usually a sign that the trailing coil is dead or not connected.
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Originally posted by wozzoom
The car is flooded. 4 spark plugs, a couple of squirts of oil in each chamber and a good battery will probably get the car started.
There is fuel, so you don't have to check that. Air? Make sure the Air flow meter is plugged in. Spark? Make sure the plug wires are connected properly. Check the ENGINE FUSES. Are any blown?
When the tach doesn't move, its usually a sign that the trailing coil is dead or not connected.
The car is flooded. 4 spark plugs, a couple of squirts of oil in each chamber and a good battery will probably get the car started.
There is fuel, so you don't have to check that. Air? Make sure the Air flow meter is plugged in. Spark? Make sure the plug wires are connected properly. Check the ENGINE FUSES. Are any blown?
When the tach doesn't move, its usually a sign that the trailing coil is dead or not connected.
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