E fan
01-09-11, 06:27 AM
#2
Do some searching, this topic comes up quite often. Make sure when you wire in a fan to have it wired to a thermoswitch and relay for easy operation. There have been instances where some people think a manually operated fan is a good idea. It isn't.
On my last RX-7, I installed a Perma-Cool "finger chopper" with a shroud from Vintage Air and it worked well. The extra space in the engine bay is nice.
On my last RX-7, I installed a Perma-Cool "finger chopper" with a shroud from Vintage Air and it worked well. The extra space in the engine bay is nice.
01-09-11, 07:22 AM
#4
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I got a Toyota MR2 or Corolla fan that I will be using, just two or three wires, so it is only 12V and ground. Get a termoswitch on the rad or somewhere else in the rad loop (the part where the thermostat opens up when the car is over 82 degrees celcius), and it'll start when it's supposed to 
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01-09-11, 04:30 PM
#8
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/diy-electric-fan-shroud-808292/
I used a new 16" electric fan from Hayden. Cools mine off just fine with the shroud. It WILL overheat without a shroud, make no mistake. The archive article even describes how to wire it up. Do not use a dash switch, you'll bake your engine.
I'm learning about plastic molding right now, so I'll see about modifying my FG shroud and produce a plastic one that will bolt to the stock location.
I used a new 16" electric fan from Hayden. Cools mine off just fine with the shroud. It WILL overheat without a shroud, make no mistake. The archive article even describes how to wire it up. Do not use a dash switch, you'll bake your engine.
I'm learning about plastic molding right now, so I'll see about modifying my FG shroud and produce a plastic one that will bolt to the stock location.
01-09-11, 06:10 PM
#11
The ones posted are known to fit well, and work well. If you can get the maxima fans to fit and work, then yeah, but I doubt a single 14" fan will work as well as a taurus fan. I had one, and it worked quite well. I'd have kept it, but the shaft of the motor was bent, and it caused some serious vibrations when it turned on 
01-09-11, 10:08 PM
#14
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its has 2 fans in it, tho not sure if they are 14s, probally 10s but they have a shroud.. and to save maybe 50 bucks imma try it lol but i will need the switch or can i take on off the maxima as well?
01-09-11, 11:06 PM
#15
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Aaron's write-up is the best, by far @ AaronCake.net.
Speaking of, Aaron, I pm'd you about that same write-up.
Speaking of, Aaron, I pm'd you about that same write-up.
01-10-11, 12:46 AM
#16
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Aaron's write-up is the best, by far @ AaronCake.net.
Speaking of, Aaron, I pm'd you about that same write-up.
Speaking of, Aaron, I pm'd you about that same write-up.
01-10-11, 12:50 AM
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so is it best to swap out your alternator? According to the aaron cake write up the s5 slternator is already at near stressed. would an fd alt be recomended to help the electrical system out? It is rated to 100 Amps if im not mistaking. Or is this not good?
01-10-11, 01:23 AM
#20
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Well i want to get better turbo and Haltek ecu. This will require high impedence injectors in my case. Upgraded intercooler. Vmount if i can afford one eventualy. haha. does this make me a good candidate for fd alt?
01-10-11, 02:03 AM
#22
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Hm... Lessee... Neither the turbo or the IC has much to do with the electrical system DIRECTLY (note the CAPS), so no; not on that basis.
High-impedance injectors will put load on the system (since they have a higher base resistance), but not draw, per se.
The Haltech shouldn't be Too big of a draw, so meh.
I think each of things individually, won't have an affect on the system.... however all of those things COMBINED will, almost certainly, have something to say about it.
My recommendation - as I've already done the same, is to just do a quick look-see through the various FS threads and pick up an FD alt. Make sure it's working or you're looking at spending something to the tune of 40-60 bucks for a reman... Possibly more.
So! The ethreal end-all to your question is YES!
Not to mention that at SOME point you may want to expand the collection of your electrical components and this will knock a few little birdies down with one... uhm... Something.
High-impedance injectors will put load on the system (since they have a higher base resistance), but not draw, per se.
The Haltech shouldn't be Too big of a draw, so meh.
I think each of things individually, won't have an affect on the system.... however all of those things COMBINED will, almost certainly, have something to say about it.
My recommendation - as I've already done the same, is to just do a quick look-see through the various FS threads and pick up an FD alt. Make sure it's working or you're looking at spending something to the tune of 40-60 bucks for a reman... Possibly more.
So! The ethreal end-all to your question is YES!
Not to mention that at SOME point you may want to expand the collection of your electrical components and this will knock a few little birdies down with one... uhm... Something.
01-10-11, 03:05 AM
#24
the fan - no.
the first fan controller i used in that write up - after a friend detailed my car, the fan sometimes wouldnt come on, I ended up replacing the unit with the one on the last page of that thread and have had no problems so far. (though i look back, my first controller might have been ok and it could have been a grounding issue that I had after the car was detailed, water could have done it)
if i could rewrite that thread, I did not use the relay i bought, as its not needed.
the first fan controller i used in that write up - after a friend detailed my car, the fan sometimes wouldnt come on, I ended up replacing the unit with the one on the last page of that thread and have had no problems so far. (though i look back, my first controller might have been ok and it could have been a grounding issue that I had after the car was detailed, water could have done it)
if i could rewrite that thread, I did not use the relay i bought, as its not needed.
01-10-11, 07:56 AM
#25
My FD alt (bought used) finally died and I'm currently running a 929 unit (junkyard- $15!) which is plug-n-play on a S5 (assuming you've already bored out your pulley).
Nominally rated at 90A, mine tested at 110A and outputs a steady 14.3v even with every electrical accy. turned on.