pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Well, once again I whent to have Ralph Friend (formerly Xcessive Motorsports) do some dyno work on my FC. It was a let down as far as power whent, but I'll come to that in a moment. As far as Ralph and his knowledge is concerned...there is no better. What I so love about working with Ralph is that he takes the time to explain whats going on, clearly, and honestly. He does'nt try to sell you a part, and is'nt looking to screw you. This to me is what will keep me coming back to him time, and time again.

Anyways, onto how the dyno whent. If you guys remember (How could'nt you?...I've spammed this picture around this forum, a million times. ) this was my FC with a working 6 port system. Now since then, I've removed the 6 port actuators, the little rods through the Pineapple sleeves, broke off the little things that sit below the 2nd set of injectors, and added a RB 17lb flywheel. Then had it taken back to the dyno.

Ok...having problems uploading the picture right now. But just to let all you guys know....from 3k rpms to 8,500, the power curve is almost exactly the same. The only difference is that I made a couple more ftlbs moving my peak ftlbs, from 6,500 to 7k rpms. Still made the peak hp at 7,500. (165.2) My peak hp was within 1.5hp of the last time I was on the dyno, as with my torque. As it is, I just can't shove any more air through the maf meter. Anything above 6,800, and the meter is at the bottomed out. The 1.5ish hp, could of been anything from to much tension on the tiedowns on the dyno, to spark plugs, hotter air, etc. So, the way I see it, I made the same power. So, all you guys running the stock air flow meter, with the agressive street ports, are wasting alot of porting.

If I could have done it all again, I would'nt have removed the 6 port rods, and stuff. I would have kept it all working, as the bottom end is noticably more slugish. Hope the forum is accepting uploads soon. CJ

88IntegraLS

More proof that dual airflow meters rigged to an S-AFC is going to be one of my future experiments. Jimmi325i said it would kill intake velocity but I started thinking about setting runner pipe diameters like collected headers (ie. 2" hoses off the AFM's collecting to a 3" hose to the throttle body) . . .

Since your engine has a Pineapple "mild" port it makes me think about this airflow meter issue after seeing your new dyno run. Looking into the airflow meter, one can easily see that it has the smallest cross section of all intake orifices . . .

Is this dyno shop around Salem? Maybe I will go some day when my car is running.

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

thats some good numbers for a n/a with like no work. lol

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it still won't let me upload the picture. If anyone wants to host it for me, shoot me an e-mail at Blackrx7@aol.com

88, keep us up to date on your dual afm setup. Could be very interesting. CJ

RarestRX

Yo,


You need to get a Microtech!

AFM, you don't need no steenkin' AFM!



This is Carl's (Silver88GXL) car and setup:


http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/mt/mt.html


Hope that helps!

Kevin
1989 GTUs "I like the other pic on the other thread!"

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Here's the real dyno graph I wanted to show you guys.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

he PP13BNOS, do you have to take your SP through Oregon DEQ or are you lucky enough to live out side of the evil boundries? Cuz I want to run a fairly large one with a Microtech but I need to be able to get it though DEQ. Hell I need to get an address out side of the testing zone and do a BP
And Kinda sucks about the numbers, you will find a way to get it making more power. And 88IntegraLS, I think that is a good Idea, maybe make some composite inserts that would taper the intake blow to make it faster though the 2 AFM's. And would you just hook them up in series I think it would be so that they would be putting out the same voltage and the ECU wouldn't get confuesed.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I live outside the DEQ for now. From what I've heard its going to go state wide next year. And as for the power, If I want more, I can just use the nitrous. But I'm realy thinking about getting a new miata, and selling the ol' FC. later, CJ

BDoty311

Im surprised removing the 5th/6th port actuators didnt make a noticable improvement. There should definately be better flow through the ports after those are removed. Why did you remove the fuel atomizers though? Arent those there for a reason?

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

I'd like to see carls car ported then dynoed. Standalone engine management is awsome. How much are those?

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

The 5 and 6th ports are a weak spot in the induction path, but I beleive that the major restriction is the maf at this point. I mean, If i can't get anymore air through point A, point B is'nt going to get much improvement. As for the fuel atomizers, they where in the way. On my efi peripheral port motor, I did'nt use them. I was using a much larger injector, and it atomized fine. So, I had anouther set of those things laying around, and I figured, if I did'nt like it, I could allways change back. To be honest though, I felt no improvement.

A standalone would be the next step for me at this point. But I can't see spending the $$ on my FC. Its my daily driver, and runs great. I could use the $$ to help with my single turbo setup for my FD. Later guys. CJ

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to tell you about my Dads, and brouthers dyno's too. My dad is running a big block ford with major fuel problems. It has a 9-1 a/f ration until the float bowls go dry. The float bowls go dry because of the fuel pressure regulator is a pos, and can't hold the fuel pressure low enough for a holley carb. He came away puttind down only 290rwhp and something like 370ftlbs at like 3 or 4k.

My older brother has a 95 mustang with a blower and a bunch of stuff done to it. It put down 481rwhp, and 470ftlbs at a 11-1 a/f ratio. Pretty nice numbers if you ask me. He too was having fuel problems, and could of made well over 500rwhp if the pump was larger. But as it is...the thing is faster than hell.....

Once again I have to thank Ralph Friend, and the guys at GZ. I allways have so much fun with them. If any of you guys are thinking about doing some dyno work, go to them. Simply top notch in my book. CJ

jgrts20

wow u dont need a AFM, how does the car run!! if i take the intake hose off the car wont even start!! does the car run fine w/o the AFM and how did u do it(any mods)?

KiyoKix

You can't just take the AFM off the car, you have to have an engine management system. The car needs to know what it's getting the EMS just takes the place of the AFM. Think of it that way...it's just the ultimate AFM...that also does ignition timing, etc.

88IntegraLS

If you have not ported your AFM and its adapter plate yet, that will make an improvement. You basically round off all the corners and blunt faces inside its inlet and exit without changing the ramp or flapper area.

My FC came with a cone filter and aluminum adapter plate when I bought it, but the adapter plate blocked part of the opening to the AFM. I got my dremel out, ground the plate opening flush with the AFM's, rounded off all corners and blended the transition between the two. This one-hour job resulted in a noticeable increase in throttle response and I think a little more power, but I can't sense a couple HP by driving feel. Just the throttle response improvement is telling enough for me to recommend this mod.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind the s5 ones are a big different. CJ