89turbo2dutch

I dyno'd my TII today and need help in interpreting my #s. Sorry no scanner to post the sheet!

169 rwhp @ 6000 rpm 201 ft-lbs torque at 3200 rpm

My mods are in my sig. The S-AFC was installed last week but had not been adjusted.

At 3200 rpm I peaked at 201 ft-lbs torque, hp was at 120. Torque then dropped gradually down to 175 @ 3600 and then flat- lined there until 5000, then fell gradually to 130 @ 6200.

The hp flat-lined at 120 from 3200 to 3700 and gradually climbed to 165 @ 5000 then slightly rose to 169 @ 6000. Both hp and torque fell steadily after 6200 rpm.

Why only 169 rwhp??
Should I be pleased with the torque #s??


Mike

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

yeah aren't those really high torque #'s? remember the 12-15% rule of thumb for hp.

nocab72

Come over tomorrow and we will scan your dyno sheet...it might help some ppl diag your hp/tq questions!

K

menace

ur probably running WAY too rich whn u fix it expect ~20% increase...

nd why do u need the fcd and the apex S-afc?

go_speed_go

Does your dyno sheet have your A/F ratios?
That should tell the story.

89turbo2dutch

Here is a pic of the dyno sheet. I have no A/F readings for the runs.


Mike

2DoritosOnAStick

Honestly, what can you expect Mike? You are running stock or near stock boost on OLD cats. Combine with the fact that your car sits all the time. I'm sure you are loosing some compression through that alone. How much power can you expect from a catback, some plug wires and a TID? People fail to realise that what goes in must come out. You could have a 76mm compressor trying to blow 20 psi into your motor, but if you have a small T3 exhaust housing and/or improper wastegate setup, you will still have a HUGE limit on power potential.

Your car is an 89, you have a great wastegate on that turbo. If you are STILL paranoid about boost creep, I can help you pull the turbo off and I'll port the wastegate as much as I can for a small fee. You can then buy a boost controller of your choice to raise the boost to whatever you like. 10-12 psi is safe, if your A/F and EGTs show you are running within the limits. Re-wire your pump (a must), and get a Walboro 255lpmh pump if you need to.

Bottom line is you won't make good power if you keep those stock cats in there. You are making decent torque, because at low rpms the exhaust can keep a good velocity. Your power drops off up top because of backpressure. If you remove your cats and run even STOCK boost, you will have more power and faster spool. Why? Because your torque peak will be higher and flatter, allowing you to pull LONGER. Torque and RPM is power.

I'm helping Joe with a turbo upgrade on his car, and my car is getting Halteched, fuel system upgrades, and then an upgraded turbo. If you want to talk more about this please PM me.

RETed

I agree - you got some serious exhaust restriction issues or your S-AFC is tuned too rich.&nbsp Your torque is pretty damn high, but the power nose-dives after 3kRPM!

I made 253hp to the wheels, but torque only managed to hit 207lb/ft!



-Ted

NZConvertible

These do two different jobs, and you usually require both. The S-AFC allows you to tune the mixtures by fooling the stock ECU into thinking it's getting more or less air than it is, the FCD removes the fuel cut from high boost, again by lying to the stock ECU. An aftermarket ECU removes the need for both of these.

menace

i thought a s-afc was a chip (piggyback system) like e6k haltech...


ohh well i guess i learnt something new today

NZConvertible

A chip is what you install into the stock ECU, a small computer chip. The S-AFC is a piggyback, you wire it into the stock ECU. The Haltech completely replaces the stock ECU and all it's tasks.

Ryde _Or_Die

What aftermarket ECU? Where can you get it and how much? Thanks.

NZConvertible

Any aftermarket ECU. Haltech, MoTec, Wolf, Autronic, Link, EMS, the list is huge. Haltech is the weapon of choice around here, mainly because it's great value for money and there's tons of info here. Do a search, or go to www.haltech.com or www.hitman.hm

Ryde _Or_Die

How hard is the haltech to tune for the average person?

NZConvertible

If starting from scratch an aftermarket ECU should only be tuned by an experienced tuner on a dyno. The actual process of operating the software is often quite easy, but engine tuning is not a job for the amateur, unless you can afford a few rebuilds as you learn! One of the advantages of the Haltech is you can download 90% ready maps from The Hitman's site to get your car running and driveable, then drive it (carefully) to a tuner to have the maps fine-tuned on a dyno.

Ryde _Or_Die

See that is leading me towards the piggy-back style of a boost controller and S-afc with a EGT & boost gauge. I think that will work fine for me and it should still work good with a turbo upgrade right?

NZConvertible

Tuning mixtures is tuning mixtures, it doesn't matter what you're using, the results can be equally catastrophic. An EGT is totally unsuitable for tuning an engine on the street. Unless you know exactly what you're doing (no offense, but if you did you wouldn't be asking) it should be done on a dyno by someone with a wide-band O2 sensor and some experience. By all means get an S-AFC, it'll be fine with your mods, but get it tuned properly. Remember, one lean-out and it's dead.

Wankel7

Ok, unless I missed something in your mod list your S-AFC is a waste of money right now. The S-AFC is ment to subtract or add fuel. Right now you have the stock fuel system. You can't add more fuel because it is not there to add. If you are enriching your mixture at the top end then you are not being safe. You are going to push your injectors to their max duty cycle. They will overheat and lock up when you are at full boost.

The only thing that S-AFC might do for you is triming some fuel in the midrange. But other than that it is not going to give you fuel.

That will change if you upgrade the fuel pump or injectors.

Sorry about your numbers. I know the pain. Start with your cat. Also, when is the last time you did a tune up? Your timing right and your spark plugs fresh?

James

billzrx7

i saw mike run but on the same note with a J spec motor, stock downpipe, 2.5" after th e stock downpipe and a TID i put out 211ft/lb torque and 224.2 horsepower. whats my excuse? stock turbo and everything.

gotorx7

And you guys outside of Oz can probably get a better deal by emailing Tim at http://www.rpmperformancecentre.com.au

He sends goodies (and Haltechs in particular) all over the place...

nocab72

I honestly think that driving your car like you stole it makes the thing perform better because the engine is used to getting stressed everyday (ie like it is on the dyno). I'm not saying that it makes it LAST longer, just perform better for the time it is running!

I realize that BWM makes a totally different car, but when I've picked my BMW's up from the dealer new, my rep told me that after the first 500miles to drive it like I would drive it everyday...(ie beat on it) doing this would help break it in for my driving style.

just some random comments...

k

billzrx7

kyle are you insinuating that my car gets the life beating every time i get in?! sweet, you seen me drive? ;P =)

dra_gon_lee

what kinda power will i make?
fcd, greddy intake, sheepdog bov, full 3" exhaust, 680 cc injectors, hks plugs, jacobs wires 10 psi, and a safc... just wondering...

thanks
rocky