I was wondering if anyone has this turbo timer. It has a A/F gauge built in that hooks up to the stock ecu so it should be accurate right? Also it is 4" x 3/4" x 5/8" so it is just like the face which is good because when I drive my friends cars(VR4 and 300 TT) I always hit the turbo timer on the way out or in the car. I just want any input on this turbo timer. Thanks alot.

 

I just got this installed in my car. I wanted it because it has the volt meter and a/f meter readings. I thought that the price was very good, getting 2 gauges and a turbo timer all in one.
I got mine insalled by an aftermarket place since I was scared to put it in, so that kicked up the price.

If you do get one, let me know if the e-brake turns it off after the timer is running. That is the only thing that I thought it did, but mine isn't doing.

I'll try to take a picture of how nice it looks in my car tonight.

 

Ok, thanks for your feedback. About the E-brake...does the "brake" light come on in the logicon when the brake is put on? Just wondering because that would cause the feature not to work I would think.

 

i got thet turbo timer and the e brake is suppose to turn off the car if u release it when the timmer is on if its hooked up right that is

 

Does yours work correctly?

 

There's a wire from the unit that gets spliced into the handbrake warning switch (base of handbrake). If that feature doesn't work, it's probably not hooked up. I couldn't be bothered hooking this up on my Levoc TT, and the installer probably couldn't be bothered doing yours!

 

I know that mine works correctly, both the A/F gauge and the e-brake. I let the e-brake down and POW...no more engine. It's there so that no one will jump into your car and drive away with it while it's being turbo timed.

When I got my TT, the instructions had a disclamer on the front that if your engine did not read 14.7 stoichiometry at idle, then the a/f gauge would not work. Rotary's should idle at 10:1 fuel mixture or less. If your rotary idles above 12, then it's getting too lean. My A'Pexi TT read 14.7 at idle, and then would drop to 13.2 at WOT(I was running VERY rich). Not very accurate.

I actually don't like it as much as the Old Greddy one I had. If I want to turn the car off, I have to push and hold a button vs. pushing a button.

just my $.02

 

I don't see the point of a turbo timer on a stock turbo anyway. Just give it a minute or two off boost and its fine. They are water cooled as well as oil cooled.

 

and its easier to nick ur car if u have them...

 

What do these A/F gauges read to? Mine reads 14.7 when I'm on the highway. The highest it goes to is 20 and that is Very RICH right? What is the lowest it goes to, mine has been down to 12.9?

Even thought my e-brake isn't working correctly, someone couldn't really go anywhere with my car. After I take the keys out, the wheel locks up if you try to turn it.

Here is a pic of where mine is mounted.

 

No, 20:1 is EXTREMELY lean (20 parts air to one part fuel by mass). Modern lean-burn engines can manage that, yours can't. If the lowest (richest) you've seen is 12.9:1, something's wrong. At full load with the stock ECU and no fuel controller you should see much richer mixtures than that. Either your car's running very lean or the A/F meter on that thing is crap.Um, wrong. All it takes is one good kick to break those. Do not rely on these, they're worthless.

 

Once again, I feel that telling people on the internet how to steal these cars is the WORST idea ever....
Oh well. Glad I have an alarm... but maybe we'll see an "Just got a new car, how do I bypass the alarm thread?"
Please, just out of respect, even if its helping, send advice like that as a PM.
I KNOW how to steal these cars. Every little thing. But I would never tell anyone how to do it.
Sean

 

I'm not talking about RX-7's, I mean ALL cars. Steering wheel locks are simply not to be relied on in any car!
Check your PM

 

I installed this in my car. Bought it a year ago.

I really can't remember what it was reading since it has been in storage for 6 months and I havn't driven it for longer.

But what I do know it only read 14.7 during cruising speeds. Full throught I think it went to 11 or 12 something. But I could be really wrong. It seemed to follow my autometer A/F but I thought that really the only indicate during cruising or so someone here said so????

Ian Skacel

Mine is a pain because it goes opposite to my automatic locks and alarm systems so I have to wait anyhow

88 10th AE

 

That's true.
The plastic gears on the steering wheel locks are held on by very small teeth, and crank hard enough onj the wheeland the plastic smooths out. You can steer any car via cranking it.
I just think it is a bad idea to tell people this.
Would you tell people in your neighbourhood exact instructions for hot wiring your car? I wouldn't. And any advice that aids people in taking my car is not appreciated is all.
There are forum members who know where I live, and live less than 10 mins from me.
I have vehicle protection, but would just prefer if we didn't tell people how to get past them.
Sean

 

it's pretty common knowledge that steering wheel locks are ****.

and trust me
if someone wanted to steal your car, they would, and they wouldn't need exact instructions from us.

 

Common knowledge why? B/c ppl can search for info like this.
They have to learn it somewhere.
And my car will not be stolen. I won't tell you my systems, but if they got the car, they wouldn't get far.
Most of my theft deterrent is custom as well, so it can't be researched.
Ask Scott Mac why he won't give out stereo specs, or pictures of his cars plates on here? Same reason here. I will not list my cars parts simply b/c it is easy to find out where someone lives.
There are people who would steal cars if they knew how. It requires someone to tell you, or figure it out yourself, and it is STUPID to teach this kinda stuff to anyone.
Maybe when someone steals your car you'll understand....
Sean