Dyno results are in!
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Dyno results are in!
The car;
1987 tII
145k miles
RB turbo back
RB fcd
Walbro fuel pump rewired
Apexi safc (Its tuned now!)
-Second TPS for apexi to actually work properly
Upgraded turbo compressor and housing
89+ manifold/wastegate
stock airbox setup with paper filter
Car is running 6psi of boost in all gears
The results
4th gear pulls
205 wheel horsepower, drops off after 6300 rpm
185 foot pounds of torque
Tuned safc to 11.2 : 1 for safety and future mods
The tuning was actually very rich because of the fuel pump. He set the correction at -13 at 8000 rpms, 10/65 tps.
I can provide a dyno sheet within the next few days if anyone cares. The guy's damn printer malfunctioned and his emails are not getting through.
1987 tII
145k miles
RB turbo back
RB fcd
Walbro fuel pump rewired
Apexi safc (Its tuned now!)
-Second TPS for apexi to actually work properly
Upgraded turbo compressor and housing
89+ manifold/wastegate
stock airbox setup with paper filter
Car is running 6psi of boost in all gears
The results
4th gear pulls
205 wheel horsepower, drops off after 6300 rpm
185 foot pounds of torque
Tuned safc to 11.2 : 1 for safety and future mods
The tuning was actually very rich because of the fuel pump. He set the correction at -13 at 8000 rpms, 10/65 tps.
I can provide a dyno sheet within the next few days if anyone cares. The guy's damn printer malfunctioned and his emails are not getting through.
#3
hmm that should place it around 230-235 fwhp. I know you have ported the wg pretty masively, so what pressure boost are you running? I just ordered my rb exhuast and fcd today and have the walbro and egt/boost guages already waiting - virtually your exact set up, so I'm rather interested.
#4
Please Post your SAFC settings, RPM vs + or - your fuel settings, I'm very curious to see how your settings are. I own a 88 Turbo II, with a new mazda engine rebuild installed, ported waste gate and to4b compressor upgrade, FMIC, upgraded fuel pump. All 550's were sent to RC engineering and flow tested and cleaned. I'm currently only running my SAFC at +1% to +2%, but feel the car is running rich, only have around 1500 miles on the motor and will be pulling the plugs to determine how its firing(rich or lean). I've been told I should actually lean it out a small bit....
Also, any other SAFC owners, please post what your settings are..
thanks
forgot to ad, I'm running 10psi of boost with a AVCR, the cars power is amazing at 10psi, after some more miles I may go as high as 12psi.. I've been told I could go as high as 14psi with my set up, but this is based on getting the fuel right.. and 14psi is a lot of power, but also a lot of money if I pop the motor.
Also, any other SAFC owners, please post what your settings are..
thanks
forgot to ad, I'm running 10psi of boost with a AVCR, the cars power is amazing at 10psi, after some more miles I may go as high as 12psi.. I've been told I could go as high as 14psi with my set up, but this is based on getting the fuel right.. and 14psi is a lot of power, but also a lot of money if I pop the motor.
Last edited by JohnL; 06-02-02 at 02:00 AM.
#7
Senior Member
SaabGuy,
Like a few others, I'd like to see the sheet. The 11.2:1 and 6psi is interesting, I can appreciate not wanting to blow your 145k motor until you're ready to rebuild/replace it. I have 114k on my original motor, no turbo mods though, and do see maybe 8psi at times (a bit nerve racking). The other stuff really made a difference.
How are you keeping 6psi, didn't see a boost controller listed here?
Update us when you can, we're interested!
Greg O.
Like a few others, I'd like to see the sheet. The 11.2:1 and 6psi is interesting, I can appreciate not wanting to blow your 145k motor until you're ready to rebuild/replace it. I have 114k on my original motor, no turbo mods though, and do see maybe 8psi at times (a bit nerve racking). The other stuff really made a difference.
How are you keeping 6psi, didn't see a boost controller listed here?
Update us when you can, we're interested!
Greg O.
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#8
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The 89+ wastegate is double the size of the S4.
The stock intake contributes too I'm sure.
Wow- you are running very safe. You could easily be running a few more PSI without any worries...
Maybe 11.7:1 or so, and a cone intake would give you probably another 20 hp- still safely.
.
The stock intake contributes too I'm sure.
Wow- you are running very safe. You could easily be running a few more PSI without any worries...
Maybe 11.7:1 or so, and a cone intake would give you probably another 20 hp- still safely.
.
#9
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205Rwhp at 6psi!? dam. I gota get mine to a dyno soon LOL..
ps and jonh L never use others settings!!. every car is different. you really need to get it tuned yourself.
ps and jonh L never use others settings!!. every car is different. you really need to get it tuned yourself.
#11
doh! I'm an idiot I didn't see the running 6 psi part lol. The fact that the results are on only 6 psi is awesome imo. Like others said you could easily gain 20 hp with a couple psi, maybe a nice cone filter/TID mod. Regardless it looks solid, congrats
#12
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Keep in mind that Boost is not Horsepower, it's merely a measurement of how hard the turbo is working to create a certain power figure.
Some people need 10 lbs of boost to accomplish the same power as someone with 6 lbs of boost, it's all in the tuning and other modifications.
Some people need 10 lbs of boost to accomplish the same power as someone with 6 lbs of boost, it's all in the tuning and other modifications.
#14
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Heres the numbers on my apexi safc. Please keep in mind that every car is different, and not everyone has my exact mods (s5 turbo with upgraded compressor plus a working TPS for the apexi safc)
RPM Correction
High throttle;
1000 +6%
2000 +3%
3000 -1%
4000 -1%
5000 -7%
6000 -10%
7000 -11%
8000 -13%
SAFC is set to flapper 05 05, throttle points of 10 and 65 % (s4's should be set to like 80 and 98%).
My walbro fuel pump really flooded things up quite a bit. I have a volt guage hooked up to the pump so I can see when it switches from 10 volts to 14 volts. You could see an agressive dip on the dyno between 4 and 5000 rpms. Keep in mind my fuel pump is rewired for higher voltage.
My s5 wastegate is not ported anymore than stock and the compressor I believe is an upgrade from a Buick Grand national. Stock air intake system (Weakest link I believe is my custom TID, its only 2") Please dont use these numbers if you are running differently than me. I do not want to hear any crap from people blowing their motors.
RPM Correction
High throttle;
1000 +6%
2000 +3%
3000 -1%
4000 -1%
5000 -7%
6000 -10%
7000 -11%
8000 -13%
SAFC is set to flapper 05 05, throttle points of 10 and 65 % (s4's should be set to like 80 and 98%).
My walbro fuel pump really flooded things up quite a bit. I have a volt guage hooked up to the pump so I can see when it switches from 10 volts to 14 volts. You could see an agressive dip on the dyno between 4 and 5000 rpms. Keep in mind my fuel pump is rewired for higher voltage.
My s5 wastegate is not ported anymore than stock and the compressor I believe is an upgrade from a Buick Grand national. Stock air intake system (Weakest link I believe is my custom TID, its only 2") Please dont use these numbers if you are running differently than me. I do not want to hear any crap from people blowing their motors.
#16
I came, I saw, I boosted.
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People- don't get too exited that you could be running the same HP with 8 PSI.
An upgraded S5 turbo can flow MUCH more air more efficiently than an S4 can. It can make an engine put out the same HP with maybe 4 PSI less boost, due to less restriction.
An upgraded S5 turbo can flow MUCH more air more efficiently than an S4 can. It can make an engine put out the same HP with maybe 4 PSI less boost, due to less restriction.
#17
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Heres my dyno sheet where you can see the actual numbers. Temperature was about 75-80 degrees F.
Can someone tell me what you think of my A/F at the lower rpms?? Seems a little lean but still under 14:1. Normal?? You know I actually asked the guy how much throttle he was giving the car and he said that he just slowly leans into it. Maybe that is why it seems a little lean down low. The car has awsome bottom end though!! You cant even see the lag on the dyno sheet.
Can someone tell me what you think of my A/F at the lower rpms?? Seems a little lean but still under 14:1. Normal?? You know I actually asked the guy how much throttle he was giving the car and he said that he just slowly leans into it. Maybe that is why it seems a little lean down low. The car has awsome bottom end though!! You cant even see the lag on the dyno sheet.
#18
I came, I saw, I boosted.
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Slowly ease into it?? What??? It's not a 16 yea..... ah, never mind.
That's weird. Sounds kindof dumb. Unless he means that he eases onto it BELOW about 1500 rpms, I'd want my moneys worth on the full dyno graph!!!!
That's weird. Sounds kindof dumb. Unless he means that he eases onto it BELOW about 1500 rpms, I'd want my moneys worth on the full dyno graph!!!!
#19
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by Bambam7
An upgraded S5 turbo can flow MUCH more air more efficiently than an S4 can. It can make an engine put out the same HP with maybe 4 PSI less boost, due to less restriction.
An upgraded S5 turbo can flow MUCH more air more efficiently than an S4 can. It can make an engine put out the same HP with maybe 4 PSI less boost, due to less restriction.
-Ted
#20
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Ted is right. Isnt the s5 turbo the exact same size???
I was able to get 205 rwhp out of 6psi because I have an upgraded compressor wheel and housing. Its a grandnational wheel/housing rebuilt by TurboCity (Are they any good??)
I was able to get 205 rwhp out of 6psi because I have an upgraded compressor wheel and housing. Its a grandnational wheel/housing rebuilt by TurboCity (Are they any good??)
#21
I came, I saw, I boosted.
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Yes, I know the S4 and S5 are the same size- but don't the S5's have a different compresor and/or turbine? I though this allows it to flow easier, making the intake less restricted, and therefore allowing the engine to generate the same power with less boost... this is what I have heard.
Of course, yours is different again since you have the Buick setup in there...
Of course, yours is different again since you have the Buick setup in there...
#22
Lives on the Forum
The compressor wheel is identical.  The turbine wheel is identical.  The compressor housing is identical.  The turbine wheel is slightly different.  The compressor and wheel dictate potential power, not the turbine side.  Therefore, the two turbos will, technically, produce the same amount of power due to the limitations of the compressor section.  The "independent twin-scroll" design of the Kouki turbine section (and turbo exhaust manifold) makes for more efficient power, but this just changes the power curve and not change the potential power.  The Kouki engine DOES run higher compression rotors, which accounts for the slight power gains.  The Kouki ECU does run a boost solenoid valve that does regulate boost levels to 7.5psi on a stock engine versus a stock Zenki turbo with 5.5psi - those facts account for the Kouki's higher power levels at stock.  When it comes right down to it, the turbos will produce similar power levels on similar engines, period.  There is nothing "bigger" between the two (compressor) turbos (sections).
-Ted
-Ted
#24
Lives on the Forum
That is one thing I haven't been able to confirm - I've seen references to this discrepency in turbine A/R, but I haven't seen the reference to confirm.  I think the Dinkel/Yamaguchi book claims it's the same 1.0 A/R for both turbos?
Even if the turbine A/R were different - reread my post - turbine A/R does not affect potential power.  A/R does shift the power band around, but it does not make more power.
-Ted
Even if the turbine A/R were different - reread my post - turbine A/R does not affect potential power.  A/R does shift the power band around, but it does not make more power.
-Ted
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