Dual port WG actuator?
#1
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Dual port WG actuator?
Friend of mine said they sell upgraded WG actuators and saw this on EBAY. Never have seen this design.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4...spagenameZWDVW
I am just trying to troubleshoot a boost control issue. Basicly, I floor it in 2nd gear and 4k rpm and run it to 7.5K rpm. My boost builds like the RPM. At 5k I have 5psi and by redline 12 psi.
My best guess is the WG door is getting blown open by the exhaust. I still need to wire it shut to confirm. It is on a BNR 3 turbo.
James
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4...spagenameZWDVW
I am just trying to troubleshoot a boost control issue. Basicly, I floor it in 2nd gear and 4k rpm and run it to 7.5K rpm. My boost builds like the RPM. At 5k I have 5psi and by redline 12 psi.
My best guess is the WG door is getting blown open by the exhaust. I still need to wire it shut to confirm. It is on a BNR 3 turbo.
James
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I've thought about the extra spring on the wastegate before but don't know where I would put it/how I would set it up. Anyone have any pics of this setup?
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Originally Posted by Wankel7
I still need to wire it shut to confirm. It is on a BNR 3 turbo.
James
James
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i had a similar problem with an old-t04e w/ internal WG...what it turned out to be in my case was the WG flapper actually melted.
as for "wiring the flapper close"....why go through the trouble? just pull the vac line on the wastegate actuator, same idea but less work, if it shoots up in psi at low rpm then you know the WG actuator isnt be yanked by the exhaust (you dont need to go for a drive, just moving the car a little bit in first gear will let you know if the flapper is staying closed or not)....of cours ei dont very well see that being the issue anyway, at least ive never seen it before.
Could be a bad port job on the internal wg (if it was ported) the flapper may not be entirely sealing and is allowing boost to slip by, or a poorly adjusted actuator which is leaving the flapper open a bit while in the "closed" position. unfortunately the only way to remove either of these possibilities is to remove the downpipe and have a lookie.
kevin.
as for "wiring the flapper close"....why go through the trouble? just pull the vac line on the wastegate actuator, same idea but less work, if it shoots up in psi at low rpm then you know the WG actuator isnt be yanked by the exhaust (you dont need to go for a drive, just moving the car a little bit in first gear will let you know if the flapper is staying closed or not)....of cours ei dont very well see that being the issue anyway, at least ive never seen it before.
Could be a bad port job on the internal wg (if it was ported) the flapper may not be entirely sealing and is allowing boost to slip by, or a poorly adjusted actuator which is leaving the flapper open a bit while in the "closed" position. unfortunately the only way to remove either of these possibilities is to remove the downpipe and have a lookie.
kevin.
#7
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Thread Starter
I understand that pinning the WG shut is going to dangerous. However, for me it is part of the troubleshooting. Simply removing the boost reference from the WG actuator could still allow it to get blown open by the exhaust gas. I simply want to see what the initial boost response is with it wire shut.
Yeah, I have the rod cranked very tightly on the WG actuator arm. The next step would be to remove it and have a lil bracket tack welded to it so I could install springs. Or maybe get this WG actuator in the auction.
James
Yeah, I have the rod cranked very tightly on the WG actuator arm. The next step would be to remove it and have a lil bracket tack welded to it so I could install springs. Or maybe get this WG actuator in the auction.
James
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#8
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UPDATE - Last night I did remove the vacuum line going to the wastegate actuator...and it acted the SAME way it does with it hooked up ... the boost didn't get crazy. I am going to try wiring it shut.
James
James
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