Drove it into the garage and won't drive out! NO SPARK!
#1
Drove it into the garage and won't drive out! NO SPARK!
Yes ive searched and searched and searched. earlier today this kid brought his car over (s4 T2) for me to look at beccause he said when you hit the gas it hits a brick wall. well i pull it into the garage pop the hood...first glance i see, NO pressure sensor, couple rigged vaccum lines some other things unplugged. i fix all the lines boost leak test it everythings good. go to start it up to pull it out and nothing. Has fuel, No spark. The leading coil is producing no spark. First off the tcah hasn't worked since the kid bought it (couple days) When you turn the key to on it sends one spark and when you turn it off. When cranking it gets no spark nothing.
-Checked:::
coils grounded good
gettin 12v at the coil
the main relay is working
EGI fuse is good
Interior engine Fuse is good.
The only two thing things i can think of left is the CAS or the ECU.
Kid had to leave his car at my house and now a pretty expensive car thats also not mine is sitting outside all night..NOT GOOD! HELP please
-Checked:::
coils grounded good
gettin 12v at the coil
the main relay is working
EGI fuse is good
Interior engine Fuse is good.
The only two thing things i can think of left is the CAS or the ECU.
Kid had to leave his car at my house and now a pretty expensive car thats also not mine is sitting outside all night..NOT GOOD! HELP please
#7
whats going on?
iTrader: (1)
the cas never goes bad. just out of spec. this is the procedure i found to work at bringing back into spec.
take the cas out, and take the cap off. you will find two electro magnets screwed into place. loosen the screws that hold them in, and using a sheet of paper, gap them to the teeth.then re tighten everything down, close it up, stab it correctly as you put it back in, and then find something else to bother with.
does the tach jump when you turn the key to on? does it bounce when your cranking?
rereading the thing, it might be a problem with the rear coils.
take the cas out, and take the cap off. you will find two electro magnets screwed into place. loosen the screws that hold them in, and using a sheet of paper, gap them to the teeth.then re tighten everything down, close it up, stab it correctly as you put it back in, and then find something else to bother with.
does the tach jump when you turn the key to on? does it bounce when your cranking?
rereading the thing, it might be a problem with the rear coils.
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#8
the cas never goes bad. just out of spec. this is the procedure i found to work at bringing back into spec.
take the cas out, and take the cap off. you will find two electro magnets screwed into place. loosen the screws that hold them in, and using a sheet of paper, gap them to the teeth.then re tighten everything down, close it up, stab it correctly as you put it back in, and then find something else to bother with.
does the tach jump when you turn the key to on? does it bounce when your cranking?
rereading the thing, it might be a problem with the rear coils.
take the cas out, and take the cap off. you will find two electro magnets screwed into place. loosen the screws that hold them in, and using a sheet of paper, gap them to the teeth.then re tighten everything down, close it up, stab it correctly as you put it back in, and then find something else to bother with.
does the tach jump when you turn the key to on? does it bounce when your cranking?
rereading the thing, it might be a problem with the rear coils.
#9
Sequentially broken
Why wouldn't you just start at the ECU to begin with? Get the FSM and check everything @ the ECU. It's pretty much always where you should start before blindly replacing things.
#10
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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Pull the CAS out.
Key to ON.
Spin the CAS's bottom gear and listen for spark and for clicking of the primary fuel injectors. Might have to lay the lead sparkplug wires close to the left strut tower studs to see spark.
What happened when you did the above?
And or do what I FRY RICE mentioned above.
Doing what I suggested proves or disproves the ECU is capable of making spark ....or not and takes but a couple of minutes to do.
Key items on the ECU pins would be ...ref voltage at least 4.5 to 5vdc.........batt power on 3I and 3J of the small plug...........batt power on all four light green wires in the small plug and a good gnd on pin 3G of the small plug.
Key to ON.
Spin the CAS's bottom gear and listen for spark and for clicking of the primary fuel injectors. Might have to lay the lead sparkplug wires close to the left strut tower studs to see spark.
What happened when you did the above?
And or do what I FRY RICE mentioned above.
Doing what I suggested proves or disproves the ECU is capable of making spark ....or not and takes but a couple of minutes to do.
Key items on the ECU pins would be ...ref voltage at least 4.5 to 5vdc.........batt power on 3I and 3J of the small plug...........batt power on all four light green wires in the small plug and a good gnd on pin 3G of the small plug.
#11
Y, because if it starts doing somthing else i will be a very happy man, then it would be able to leave my house/garage. Im not getting paid to do this nor do i have time. i had to get a deadline for a paper extended in one of my college courses because of this stupid car.
#12
Sequentially broken
Y, because if it starts doing somthing else i will be a very happy man, then it would be able to leave my house/garage. Im not getting paid to do this nor do i have time. i had to get a deadline for a paper extended in one of my college courses because of this stupid car.
#13
Pull the CAS out.
Key to ON.
Spin the CAS's bottom gear and listen for spark and for clicking of the primary fuel injectors. Might have to lay the lead sparkplug wires close to the left strut tower studs to see spark.
What happened when you did the above?
And or do what I FRY RICE mentioned above.
Doing what I suggested proves or disproves the ECU is capable of making spark ....or not and takes but a couple of minutes to do.
Key items on the ECU pins would be ...ref voltage at least 4.5 to 5vdc.........batt power on 3I and 3J of the small plug...........batt power on all four light green wires in the small plug and a good gnd on pin 3G of the small plug.
Key to ON.
Spin the CAS's bottom gear and listen for spark and for clicking of the primary fuel injectors. Might have to lay the lead sparkplug wires close to the left strut tower studs to see spark.
What happened when you did the above?
And or do what I FRY RICE mentioned above.
Doing what I suggested proves or disproves the ECU is capable of making spark ....or not and takes but a couple of minutes to do.
Key items on the ECU pins would be ...ref voltage at least 4.5 to 5vdc.........batt power on 3I and 3J of the small plug...........batt power on all four light green wires in the small plug and a good gnd on pin 3G of the small plug.
#14
I got it all figured out. I didnt feel like ****** with really any wires so i just straight up started at the ecu. ALL 4 green wires had power 3j had zero but the black ground had like 7 volts lol. so i knew theer was a grounding problem. I jsut grounded the black wire and everythign went back to the way it should be. the cars engine bay is SOOOO freakin dirty. it only has 55k orignal
#15
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3J should have batt voltage on it but is not required for running the engine. IT gets fed off the Room fuse in the interior and the ROOM fuse gets fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.
So check both fuses..BTN and ROOM fuse. Never hurt to have it powered up. It's a memory thing for the ECU.
So check both fuses..BTN and ROOM fuse. Never hurt to have it powered up. It's a memory thing for the ECU.
#16
3J should have batt voltage on it but is not required for running the engine. IT gets fed off the Room fuse in the interior and the ROOM fuse gets fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.
So check both fuses..BTN and ROOM fuse. Never hurt to have it powered up. It's a memory thing for the ECU.
So check both fuses..BTN and ROOM fuse. Never hurt to have it powered up. It's a memory thing for the ECU.
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