2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Drove it into the garage and won't drive out! NO SPARK!

Old Oct 12, 2009 | 10:54 PM
  #1  
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Exclamation Drove it into the garage and won't drive out! NO SPARK!

Yes ive searched and searched and searched. earlier today this kid brought his car over (s4 T2) for me to look at beccause he said when you hit the gas it hits a brick wall. well i pull it into the garage pop the hood...first glance i see, NO pressure sensor, couple rigged vaccum lines some other things unplugged. i fix all the lines boost leak test it everythings good. go to start it up to pull it out and nothing. Has fuel, No spark. The leading coil is producing no spark. First off the tcah hasn't worked since the kid bought it (couple days) When you turn the key to on it sends one spark and when you turn it off. When cranking it gets no spark nothing.
-Checked:::
coils grounded good
gettin 12v at the coil
the main relay is working
EGI fuse is good
Interior engine Fuse is good.

The only two thing things i can think of left is the CAS or the ECU.

Kid had to leave his car at my house and now a pretty expensive car thats also not mine is sitting outside all night..NOT GOOD! HELP please
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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whats going on?
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un plug the airflow meter and see if the car starts.
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
un plug the airflow meter and see if the car starts.
nope it wont, tried that many diffrenet ways
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Ecu...

CAS don't really go bad....or at least very often.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 01:36 AM
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I can send you a CAS to try if you want. I don't live too far from you.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Z3r0 s1gnaL
I can send you a CAS to try if you want. I don't live too far from you.
OK that might work. umm somone in parma (15miles from me) might be letting me grab one to check it. Im going to reground the the ecu grounds under the Intake manifold. and a few others.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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whats going on?
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the cas never goes bad. just out of spec. this is the procedure i found to work at bringing back into spec.

take the cas out, and take the cap off. you will find two electro magnets screwed into place. loosen the screws that hold them in, and using a sheet of paper, gap them to the teeth.then re tighten everything down, close it up, stab it correctly as you put it back in, and then find something else to bother with.

does the tach jump when you turn the key to on? does it bounce when your cranking?

rereading the thing, it might be a problem with the rear coils.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
the cas never goes bad. just out of spec. this is the procedure i found to work at bringing back into spec.

take the cas out, and take the cap off. you will find two electro magnets screwed into place. loosen the screws that hold them in, and using a sheet of paper, gap them to the teeth.then re tighten everything down, close it up, stab it correctly as you put it back in, and then find something else to bother with.

does the tach jump when you turn the key to on? does it bounce when your cranking?

rereading the thing, it might be a problem with the rear coils.
Idk if the tach jumps because it dont work. It might be the trailing coil idk. im just going down the line diagnosing the stuff. Oh forgot to mention that we put a few sets of coils on it and none worked. so i know its not anything with the coils. im bout to go do the CAS trick u stated, time it, Re do some grounds, check the brown and white wire on the Boost pressure plug for volts. after that idk what to do. its either wiring or ECU.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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Why wouldn't you just start at the ECU to begin with? Get the FSM and check everything @ the ECU. It's pretty much always where you should start before blindly replacing things.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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Pull the CAS out.

Key to ON.

Spin the CAS's bottom gear and listen for spark and for clicking of the primary fuel injectors. Might have to lay the lead sparkplug wires close to the left strut tower studs to see spark.

What happened when you did the above?

And or do what I FRY RICE mentioned above.

Doing what I suggested proves or disproves the ECU is capable of making spark ....or not and takes but a couple of minutes to do.

Key items on the ECU pins would be ...ref voltage at least 4.5 to 5vdc.........batt power on 3I and 3J of the small plug...........batt power on all four light green wires in the small plug and a good gnd on pin 3G of the small plug.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ifryrice
Why wouldn't you just start at the ECU to begin with? Get the FSM and check everything @ the ECU. It's pretty much always where you should start before blindly replacing things.
Y, because if it starts doing somthing else i will be a very happy man, then it would be able to leave my house/garage. Im not getting paid to do this nor do i have time. i had to get a deadline for a paper extended in one of my college courses because of this stupid car.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by just startn
Y, because if it starts doing somthing else i will be a very happy man, then it would be able to leave my house/garage. Im not getting paid to do this nor do i have time. i had to get a deadline for a paper extended in one of my college courses because of this stupid car.
Why not just make whoever owns it move it/repair it then? If you didn't have time, you should've told the owner to come on here so you could get your things done.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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From: Elyria, OH
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Pull the CAS out.

Key to ON.

Spin the CAS's bottom gear and listen for spark and for clicking of the primary fuel injectors. Might have to lay the lead sparkplug wires close to the left strut tower studs to see spark.

What happened when you did the above?

And or do what I FRY RICE mentioned above.

Doing what I suggested proves or disproves the ECU is capable of making spark ....or not and takes but a couple of minutes to do.

Key items on the ECU pins would be ...ref voltage at least 4.5 to 5vdc.........batt power on 3I and 3J of the small plug...........batt power on all four light green wires in the small plug and a good gnd on pin 3G of the small plug.
I did that but however i didn't do it throughly. I will do it throughly as soon as i get home im at school right now print the ECU pin out out.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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I got it all figured out. I didnt feel like ****** with really any wires so i just straight up started at the ecu. ALL 4 green wires had power 3j had zero but the black ground had like 7 volts lol. so i knew theer was a grounding problem. I jsut grounded the black wire and everythign went back to the way it should be. the cars engine bay is SOOOO freakin dirty. it only has 55k orignal
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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3J should have batt voltage on it but is not required for running the engine. IT gets fed off the Room fuse in the interior and the ROOM fuse gets fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.

So check both fuses..BTN and ROOM fuse. Never hurt to have it powered up. It's a memory thing for the ECU.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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From: Elyria, OH
Originally Posted by HAILERS
3J should have batt voltage on it but is not required for running the engine. IT gets fed off the Room fuse in the interior and the ROOM fuse gets fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.

So check both fuses..BTN and ROOM fuse. Never hurt to have it powered up. It's a memory thing for the ECU.
Yea all the fuses are good. i checked the room fuse it was good but i changed it for the heck of it. the cars gone and i dont have to mess with it anymore so im happy lol. i can see that thing being stuck here for a long time and no money coming in.
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