Driving after alcohol in gas tank
So i plan on doing the quart or 2 or denatured alcohol with the 2 gal of gas. Afterwards i plan on filling her up and hitting the highway.
Just wondering if i have to be light on the pedal or is it safe to drive her like she needs to be??
Just wondering if i have to be light on the pedal or is it safe to drive her like she needs to be??
This is to pass emissions?
I put a gallon of alcohol in @ 3 gallons of gas the day I tested.
The tech laughed as he inserted the tailpipe probe because it was so obvious- not that he cared.
Passed, went next door, filled up and drove normally.
I put a gallon of alcohol in @ 3 gallons of gas the day I tested.
The tech laughed as he inserted the tailpipe probe because it was so obvious- not that he cared.
Passed, went next door, filled up and drove normally.
Aww man are you serious? i didnt know they would be able to tell... You sure a gallon wasnt to much? Did you need more if your car scores horribly?
Thanks though, i just wanted to make sure i can down shift on the highway if i need to pass cars up
Thanks though, i just wanted to make sure i can down shift on the highway if i need to pass cars up
I didn't use a magic formula...I had about 3 gal. of gas in the tank and Home Depot sold denatured alcohol in gallon cans, so I said WTF and poured it in.
And of course you can tell. You're burning pure alcohol.
I would get a full tank of real gas ASAP.
I drove from literally right next door to the testing station where I dumped in the alcohol, then right back and filled up...total distance with the mixture was less than a quarter mile.
And of course you can tell. You're burning pure alcohol.
I would get a full tank of real gas ASAP.
I drove from literally right next door to the testing station where I dumped in the alcohol, then right back and filled up...total distance with the mixture was less than a quarter mile.
Yeah be careful with that stuff. Best friend used a lot of that stuff in his tank. He passed, but the whole "oil and alcohol not mixing" thing caused a seized motor shortly after. It wasn't a problem for us because we both worked at pineapple at the time but it still sucked and took 2 days of our lives to get him back on the road. Carbon build up and heat spots could be seen and one of the 3 apex seal pieces just rolled out and stopped the motor. It was kind of fun though to be able to floor the car and after about 10 seconds, finally get to 40mph. (alcohol has no energy)
Buy a RTEK 2.1 or equiv, and you can run E-85 easily. I'm running a fifty/fifty mix right now. I just had to add 25% more fuel across the rpm range. I think I might be able to run 100% E85 by upping the fuel to 40% more fuel or installing 680 injectors and adding much less fuel.
It's not all that practical though. Even with E85 fifty cents cheaper than regular. The nearest station that has E-85 is fifteen miles from my house...one way. Makes no economic sense at all. Just something to consider when and if a E85 is built closer to the house.
With a RTEK 2.1 you can have a map for the E-85 and if you can't find a station with E85, you can fill up with regular and change the map back to Regular gas.
I read on a forum that when you convert to E-85, the injectors should be changed to ones that deliver approx 40% more fuel. I'll take their word for it.
It's not all that practical though. Even with E85 fifty cents cheaper than regular. The nearest station that has E-85 is fifteen miles from my house...one way. Makes no economic sense at all. Just something to consider when and if a E85 is built closer to the house.
With a RTEK 2.1 you can have a map for the E-85 and if you can't find a station with E85, you can fill up with regular and change the map back to Regular gas.
I read on a forum that when you convert to E-85, the injectors should be changed to ones that deliver approx 40% more fuel. I'll take their word for it.
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Buy a RTEK 2.1 or equiv, and you can run E-85 easily. I'm running a fifty/fifty mix right now. I just had to add 25% more fuel across the rpm range. I think I might be able to run 100% E85 by upping the fuel to 40% more fuel or installing 680 injectors and adding much less fuel.
It's not all that practical though. Even with E85 fifty cents cheaper than regular. The nearest station that has E-85 is fifteen miles from my house...one way. Makes no economic sense at all. Just something to consider when and if a E85 is built closer to the house.
With a RTEK 2.1 you can have a map for the E-85 and if you can't find a station with E85, you can fill up with regular and change the map back to Regular gas.
I read on a forum that when you convert to E-85, the injectors should be changed to ones that deliver approx 40% more fuel. I'll take their word for it.
It's not all that practical though. Even with E85 fifty cents cheaper than regular. The nearest station that has E-85 is fifteen miles from my house...one way. Makes no economic sense at all. Just something to consider when and if a E85 is built closer to the house.
With a RTEK 2.1 you can have a map for the E-85 and if you can't find a station with E85, you can fill up with regular and change the map back to Regular gas.
I read on a forum that when you convert to E-85, the injectors should be changed to ones that deliver approx 40% more fuel. I'll take their word for it.
im sure he has already thought this through
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...t=73061&page=3
Post number #57 in the thread above. I believe it's METHONAL that is the corrosive fuel, not the ethonal.
I've no real problems, but I've driven only three tanks of E85 and you have to use a fuel controller to make it work preferably WITH a wideband controller in my very humble opinion.
There is a small problem. It, everything, works fine with the o2 sensor disconnected ,with no problems at all. With the 02 sensor connected and when it goes closed loop, there is a bit of a hesitation at cruise. I believe that's because I have things too lean and the ECU is having to drive the injectors open further than is normal. Got me. I've got to try a richer mixture and see how it goes.
In case I forgot to mention it, I'm against ethonal the way they make it presently and Cellulostic ethonal is someones pipe dream in my opinion. Just talk, talk, talk and no real manufacturing of it AT ALL.
Using corn just ends up starving a Mexican.
Post number #57 in the thread above. I believe it's METHONAL that is the corrosive fuel, not the ethonal.
I've no real problems, but I've driven only three tanks of E85 and you have to use a fuel controller to make it work preferably WITH a wideband controller in my very humble opinion.
There is a small problem. It, everything, works fine with the o2 sensor disconnected ,with no problems at all. With the 02 sensor connected and when it goes closed loop, there is a bit of a hesitation at cruise. I believe that's because I have things too lean and the ECU is having to drive the injectors open further than is normal. Got me. I've got to try a richer mixture and see how it goes.
In case I forgot to mention it, I'm against ethonal the way they make it presently and Cellulostic ethonal is someones pipe dream in my opinion. Just talk, talk, talk and no real manufacturing of it AT ALL.
Using corn just ends up starving a Mexican.
Last edited by HAILERS; Oct 3, 2008 at 09:34 AM.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=73061
the first page of that site explains things a bit better. Around post 101, give or take, there is a mention of passing emissions. I forget the exact post number.
the first page of that site explains things a bit better. Around post 101, give or take, there is a mention of passing emissions. I forget the exact post number.
Not if you use a fuel controller like the RTEK 2.1 or equiv, to ADD fuel thru the full range of operation. It won't mess up your engine if you do that. Such as, if you put in half gas and half ethonal, you add 20% across the board to prevent the mixture from getting too lean. RTEK 2.1 can add up to 40% more fuel.
Or add four of these: http://www.racetronix.com/3145FM.html and then run straight E90 with a RTEK or equiv. It's just inflated money and plenty more of that stuff to come in the near future. Buy a wheel barrow.
Last edited by HAILERS; Oct 7, 2008 at 08:29 PM.
Alcohol is not directly responsible for corrosion on aluminum and steel parts in the fuel system it is the fact that it causes electrolysis in a accelerated manner. I have ran it in a DSM with little side effects but I didn’t have the alcohol/oil problem there. But it will begin to destroy dino oil 0-rings exposed directly to it they should be replaced with urethane if you intended to use it long term. Alcohol/oil problem aside it would be fun to run because its like 100-110 octane. if I have gotten something wrong some one will tell me I’m sure.
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