driver side wiring harness??
11-23-07, 11:27 AM
#3
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That relay is probably the MAIN relay. Has two plugs going to it.
It's the FRONT harness.
The MAIN RELAY is FED from the EGI fuse in the ENGINE bay fuse box. It is controlled by power from the ignition switch (control comes from the two pin socket going to the main relay).
When the Main relay is pulled in, the power from the EGI fuse feeds the fuel injectors, ECU, and the black/white wire that is at each of the solenoids on the engines solenoid rack (blue, grey, orange etc plugs of the solenoids).
The large four pin plug of the Main Relay is the one that has the power from the engine bay EGI fuse and the output wires going to the ECU, injectors and items I mentioned.
Figure out which wires are burnt and write back. Maybe someone can figure out what went wrong. Sounds like a dead short (duh) somewhere, on a power wire.
It's the FRONT harness.
The MAIN RELAY is FED from the EGI fuse in the ENGINE bay fuse box. It is controlled by power from the ignition switch (control comes from the two pin socket going to the main relay).
When the Main relay is pulled in, the power from the EGI fuse feeds the fuel injectors, ECU, and the black/white wire that is at each of the solenoids on the engines solenoid rack (blue, grey, orange etc plugs of the solenoids).
The large four pin plug of the Main Relay is the one that has the power from the engine bay EGI fuse and the output wires going to the ECU, injectors and items I mentioned.
Figure out which wires are burnt and write back. Maybe someone can figure out what went wrong. Sounds like a dead short (duh) somewhere, on a power wire.
11-23-07, 12:49 PM
#4
looks to be a white w/ red stripe and a white w/ blue stripe. they are the ones coming from the egi fuse to plug ofr the main relay. They are literally melted. My question is could this have fucked my ecu up? If i put haltec in would this fix it?
11-23-07, 02:28 PM
#5
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I doubt it would wreck the ECU. Seems to me the EGI fuse(s) should have blown when the wire(s) melted. Did they?
Does this car run right now? Or did it stop running and then you found these two wires melted.
Somewhere, I suspect, there is a dead short on THE OTHER side of the relay. The W/L (white/blue) wire connects with the black/white when the relay is pulled in, and the W/R (white/red) wire connects with the black/yellow wire on the other side of the relay.
B/Y feeds the coils, fuel injectors and I think also the ECU.
B/W feeds all those solenoids on the left side of the engine plus the two solenoids on the ACV and other things I don't remember.
IF the short was on the W/L and W/R wires side of the relay, then if you disconnected the four socket plug from the Main relay, those two wires would still be heating up due to the dead short. IF the wires only heat up when the plugs are on the Main relay and key to ON, then the short is on the other side of the relay i.e. B/W and B/Y wires going where I said earlier.
But right now I/we don't know if you still have a short or not or if the car starts or does not start.
A few of this type problem is caused by the solenoids on the ACV where the wires get twisted on the solenoid and short together which SHOULD blow the EGI fuse if that happens. Fuse shoulda blown before the wires melted in my opinion.
Does this car run right now? Or did it stop running and then you found these two wires melted.
Somewhere, I suspect, there is a dead short on THE OTHER side of the relay. The W/L (white/blue) wire connects with the black/white when the relay is pulled in, and the W/R (white/red) wire connects with the black/yellow wire on the other side of the relay.
B/Y feeds the coils, fuel injectors and I think also the ECU.
B/W feeds all those solenoids on the left side of the engine plus the two solenoids on the ACV and other things I don't remember.
IF the short was on the W/L and W/R wires side of the relay, then if you disconnected the four socket plug from the Main relay, those two wires would still be heating up due to the dead short. IF the wires only heat up when the plugs are on the Main relay and key to ON, then the short is on the other side of the relay i.e. B/W and B/Y wires going where I said earlier.
But right now I/we don't know if you still have a short or not or if the car starts or does not start.
A few of this type problem is caused by the solenoids on the ACV where the wires get twisted on the solenoid and short together which SHOULD blow the EGI fuse if that happens. Fuse shoulda blown before the wires melted in my opinion.
11-23-07, 04:14 PM
#7
The car starts and idles fine. The problem iam trying to fix is the fact that under any kind of load the car instantly goes lean according to my wideband o2.
Now i put a new relay (used)in and it idles and drove under load fine until i put it into boost and then it went right back to the same situtation. I have a haltec e6k that i need to put in to get this damn safc off. This would in theory bypass the problem correct?
Yea i thought t he fuse should have blown also.
Now i put a new relay (used)in and it idles and drove under load fine until i put it into boost and then it went right back to the same situtation. I have a haltec e6k that i need to put in to get this damn safc off. This would in theory bypass the problem correct?
Yea i thought t he fuse should have blown also.
