Anyone done one? Obviously an aftermarket ECU would be required as well as finding a suitable throttle pedal.

Would be beneficial in my mind for having a small accelerated warm up, maybe 2K rpms instead of 3? or even 1500RPM? Retaining cruise control WITHOUT having the big vacuum piece. Tidy up the engine bay without the big long T2 throttle cable mess.

So....let the discussion begin

 

It would seem to be far more a hassle than it's worth. The cost of fabricating everything required -- even if you borrow most of the hardware from another vehicle, would far exceed any benefit you would gain.

 

Were I swapping in a LSx or another drivetrain that was originally equipped with DBW, I'd certainly consider it although my basic instinct is to go cable (which some of the swappers do also).

Graft it onto a FC...um, no, not a challenge I'd be up for.

Certainly, at least the stock cable situation could be addressed/improved, not sure about cruise and changing the warmup.

 

An fd cable cures those long tii cable blues

 

You need an ECU with an H bridge to control it. Then you need the throttle body and pedal assembly, with electrical harnesses. Some GM vehicle would probably the best donor, but you need to machine a flange to bolt up to a stock manifold if it will fit.

Only the really high end Standalones will have the capability to drive it. the AEM infinity can do it.

There are a lot of advantages of drive by wire, like not needing a bac valve or any other of the dumb throttle body stuff on old cars. The thermowax, double throttle, all that functionality moves to software. You can close the throttle in an over boost or excessive knock scenario. You can have different throttle response curves. All these features are incorporated in modern boosted cars. No TPS adjustments, no cruise actuator or any cables to adjust or fail. Plus electronic throttles almost never fail and have redundancies built in.

 

I agree, being able to remove the oem throttlebody with the bac valve, double throttle, thermowax an other crap would be nice. But practically speaking, mounting a normal throttlebody with just a bac valve is far easier, less time consuming and more reliable than piecing together your own drive by wire setup.
In my opinion it only makes sense if you can control it well, meaning you are actually able to implement cruise control, traction control, overboost / knock control, and the failure checks are working. Basically both the throttle actuator and the foot pedal are equipped with 2 sensors, and both sensors have to read equally within margin all the time.

Most motorbikes use part-drive by wire, which might be a good option. They have 2 inline placed throttleplates, one is operated by hand, the other one is driven by a stepper motor (Most cars use a DC motor with a H-bridge type driver, motorbikes use stepper motors). The hand operated throttle is open at 5% or so, allowing the electric throttle to regulate the idle ect.



Oh, there are pretty good standalone ecu's for motorbikes, and the one I've used is able to control drive-by-wire out of the box, stepper or dc-motor driven. The ecu I used is able to control idle speed, there is a 3D rpm/tps based map where you can set throttle opening, and there is a simple type of traction control. But no split timing map for rotaries, because it's meant for motorbikes. the new haltech elite ecu might be a better option.

 

****, now I want one.

 

Tell us/me more about this FD cable. Google didn't show me much...yet. Still searching

 

use an FD throttle cable, its shorter and just right, works with an FD or FC throttle body. Few bucks cheaper than a new FC cable as well

 

Interesting, does it simply wrap around the front of the engine more tightly or does it need to be routed differently?

 

i routed mine around back of the engine

 

Nice!! I'd love to get my TII one's bracket off my alternator casing through bolt. Mind PMing me a pic?

 

for s4/s4 throttle body you would route around the front