To make a drain for an application on my -7-, should I take off the oil pan to drill into and weld on the bung? Or would just draining oil, drilling and welding while the pan is connected to the car a bad idea?

 

I'd drop it so you dont have metal shavings in the tank, it's really easy to drop an oilpan dude..

 

And to make sure u dont drill anything else.

 

holy hell getting the oil pan off is NOT easy LoL... i had to take the front cover off and it took about forever to get the front 6 bolts out because they are RIGHT ABOVE the axle and its a pain LoL...
So, I wouldn't take the pan off, but i'd drain, drill, and fill with water and drain a couple times to get rid of the majority of the crap.

 

DO NOT FLUSH THE PAN WITH ANYTHING BUT OIL! You will never be able to get any water or other crap out of the pickup, and it will be sucked into the engine. This is bad.

Remove the pan. No, this is not a fun job. You don't need to remove the front cover. Remove the engine mounts, then jack up the engine slightly via the transmission. Should give you enough clearance to get the front bolts if you use a swivel 10MM socket.

 

thats PRESSURIZED water... i did it once... and then i took the pan off LoL long story... but it did work for me...
still, i wouldn't wanna offer unsolicited advice.. you better be safe...

 

Pressurized water is even worse...Water should come nowhere near the lubrication system, unless the engine is disassembled and you are washing before inspection...

 

it works fine if its drained properly...
as long as you only get it in the pan, then clean it all out it works fine...

 

why dont you drill the front cover? you still have to drop the pan, but it gets you alot higher and less risk of oil backing up into turbo etc...

http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/images/rx72-2.jpg

http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/images/rx71-2.jpg

 

Don't be a tree hugger. Drain it to the ground.
I would never drill into and weld on my oil pan while its attached. Sometimes shortcuts cost you more time in the long run. Let me know if you need any help.

 

I would agree with Aaron. Do not use water. If you are going to leav the pan on and do all that then don't be a cheapskate. You can get enough cheap oil to flush it out really well. Then you can use the Castrol 20w50 again.

 

just take off the oil pan to be safe from those lil metal shavings screwing anything up

 

Thats an interseting idea from camden to drain back to the front cover...

 

yeah there more meat for the threads to dig into as well, so you can avoid using a bulkhead fitting or something

 

I did my oil drain port on the oil pan the last time I had it off the engine: drilled a hole and welded a 1/2" pipe with threads onto the sheet metal, wiped it down and painted it.

Don't weld the oil pan if it is on the engine. If there is any fuel dilution in the oil, u could experience a loud bang.

 

Let me guess. This is the oil return out of your Turbo on your N/A to Turbo project using your 6 port motor?

 

That's the only reason why anyone would weld an oil return into an oil pan, or for a vortech or other form of engine oil lubricated supercharger .............

 

An oil drain is under no pressure. The oil pan is iron. Tap the pan after magnetizing your tap, then screw in a fitting.
This is the method done with every V8 aftermarket centrifugal unit I have ever installed And it works fine for them. Our oiling systems are not any more complex than a typical piston engine, so why do we have to be so special as to drop the pan to weld on a bung?

Than being said, I HAVE removed a 5.0L mustang engine oil pan after using a magnetic tap for a vortech supercharger installation and found no metal slivers. If you don't have personal experience with trying this, don't even mention it won't work.