drifting thoughts fc vs 240
#76
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Originally posted by mazdized
HEHE hey Ted I Just got back from D day 7 and it was fun. I got 360s down and twice I linked it into a right drift. ... yeeehaaa. Drove J-spec's yellow S13 and Doried for the first time and pulled it off and linked it into the drift. Thumbs up for S13. I did not think I could pull the dori with a car I never driven before and never trying it before, but with S13 I think I can try it in 3 rd gear next time.
HEHE hey Ted I Just got back from D day 7 and it was fun. I got 360s down and twice I linked it into a right drift. ... yeeehaaa. Drove J-spec's yellow S13 and Doried for the first time and pulled it off and linked it into the drift. Thumbs up for S13. I did not think I could pull the dori with a car I never driven before and never trying it before, but with S13 I think I can try it in 3 rd gear next time.
Glad to hear you were kicking ***!
-Ted
#77
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Heck, I went from my FC and it's 12" wheel to my buddies S13 and it was a breeze...until the lack of power ground the car to a halt...he wouldn't let me clutch-kick it
#78
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damn, i can't believe this thread is still alive. i like both cars. they're both cool for different reasons and both can drift well dependent on how well driver knows how to drive.
if you guys were there at the rs*r drift event, you'd have seen those stunt mustang drivers. there were 3 mustangs, all with open diff, two with automatic transmissions and v6, on manual tranny. those guys were drifting really well. why? they're professional drivers, two used to compete in nascar.
whereas the s-chassis cars may be easier to begin, which one looks best to you is all in the eye of the beholder.
personally i like both, so i would like the opportunity to own both, and drift in both.
if you guys were there at the rs*r drift event, you'd have seen those stunt mustang drivers. there were 3 mustangs, all with open diff, two with automatic transmissions and v6, on manual tranny. those guys were drifting really well. why? they're professional drivers, two used to compete in nascar.
whereas the s-chassis cars may be easier to begin, which one looks best to you is all in the eye of the beholder.
personally i like both, so i would like the opportunity to own both, and drift in both.
#79
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I actually got a good full solid drift in my fc the other day. I dont have eliminator bushing or any suspension work so...it normally goes: Ebrake sideways then dump the clutch which doesnt get me through the full turn. So this time I went faster than I normally do (scared myself at first) Feint into the ebrake, countersteered with a clutch dump at high rpms to keep it slidin. IT WORKED! Now I just gotta reproduce that everytime.
#80
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most of you still arent catching my point. Its not that the FC will not drift. Its that it will not compete with a hachi or 240 in drift angle excpet with a lot of suspension work you wouldnt need with either other car. When you start getting decient you will eventually run into you steering lock.
#81
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Originally posted by slidingsky
most of you still arent catching my point. Its not that the FC will not drift. Its that it will not compete with a hachi or 240 in drift angle excpet with a lot of suspension work you wouldnt need with either other car. When you start getting decient you will eventually run into you steering lock.
most of you still arent catching my point. Its not that the FC will not drift. Its that it will not compete with a hachi or 240 in drift angle excpet with a lot of suspension work you wouldnt need with either other car. When you start getting decient you will eventually run into you steering lock.
#82
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[bench drifting]
the S chassis cars are better for beginners to learn on, and it wont take much suspension modification to get a good initial drift angle.
FC and FD can hold their own, but require heavy feinting and a bit of suspension work and technique to get the tighter angles, and maintain higher speed slides.
In the end of course it comes down to driver-- the shorter wheel base fc requires a different technique, whereas the longer wheelbase s-cars seem to slide out more naturally and smoothly during throttle off/throttle on. This is on LSD equipped vehicles I might add. Stock FC LSDs simply dont cut it.
[/bench drifting]
the S chassis cars are better for beginners to learn on, and it wont take much suspension modification to get a good initial drift angle.
FC and FD can hold their own, but require heavy feinting and a bit of suspension work and technique to get the tighter angles, and maintain higher speed slides.
In the end of course it comes down to driver-- the shorter wheel base fc requires a different technique, whereas the longer wheelbase s-cars seem to slide out more naturally and smoothly during throttle off/throttle on. This is on LSD equipped vehicles I might add. Stock FC LSDs simply dont cut it.
[/bench drifting]
#84
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you wanna know what really determines how easy it is to drift a car? torque. plain and simple. independent rear solid axle rear limited slip, open differential, toe eliminator bushings....nope. these only help marginally. the most important basic principal is that you have to have the force required to break the rear tires loose, and keep them loose while the front tires hold. in my 7 i use sticky tires in front and bullshit tires in the back, which helps certainly, but certainly not as much as my v8 did...
#85
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Torque
Originally posted by btsnook
you wanna know what really determines how easy it is to drift a car? torque. plain and simple. independent rear solid axle rear limited slip, open differential, toe eliminator bushings....nope. these only help marginally. the most important basic principal is that you have to have the force required to break the rear tires loose, and keep them loose while the front tires hold. in my 7 i use sticky tires in front and bullshit tires in the back, which helps certainly, but certainly not as much as my v8 did...
you wanna know what really determines how easy it is to drift a car? torque. plain and simple. independent rear solid axle rear limited slip, open differential, toe eliminator bushings....nope. these only help marginally. the most important basic principal is that you have to have the force required to break the rear tires loose, and keep them loose while the front tires hold. in my 7 i use sticky tires in front and bullshit tires in the back, which helps certainly, but certainly not as much as my v8 did...
Torque is the only determine factor in the situation I decribed above?? I do not agree. But if your definition of drifting is spinning donut in parking lot then I guess that is a true statement.
#87
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Ok all i know is that Fc is a great Drift car If u know how to drift and have experience its not a good beginer car for most people. Many cay to start in an AE86 ( if u can find one) or a Nissan 240 ( s-13 or 180 whichever ur pref.) I drift un an FC and i know FD drifters SA and FB have been known not to make good Drift cars but if u put in the effeort and time to practice then u can drift anycar. Baisically its all about what u want to do and how far ur willing to take it
Just my .02cents
Just my .02cents
#88
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Got back from a track event, tried to do some high speed drifts at 100mph+ but found myself not having enough guts. I will get kicked off the session or track if I kick a bunch of dirt on and if I spin off the payment there is a good chance I will flip. I was coming in at about 105mph but was still braking some and trying to throw the car, however there was not enough speed to carry me throgh the whole turn. Looked like I needed to just not brake and throw it at 110mph +. High speed stuff for me makes me feel like a drift virgin again which is a little disappointing but I like the challenge and to step up. The car was some what understeering but great I thought at high speed, really preditable. One thing I learned is that high speed drifting is much more intense than gripping and way less margin for error once you stop being a chicken **** like me.
#90
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Yeah I think FCs are hard to stay loose but once it is loose it actually is stable especailly at higher speed. Keep in mind I have a 140 RWHP NA motor so I really have to go in fast in order to do anything. Back straight at Button Willow is good for high speed drift for sure but I am not sure if the whole turn can be done unless with a 400 hp plus car.
#91
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Drifting is in same category as burning rubber and drag racing as only immature drivers engage in this juvenile behavior.
FC RX7 suspension with slight understeer is designed for road tracks with lots of turns. A sports car should stick to the road in turns and fly out of each turn ready for next one - FC and FD handle superbly in twistes as their skid path stats are high (86 and 96). In fact, skid path or road holding ability for 2004 Nissan 350Z and RX8 are less than FC.
FC RX7 suspension with slight understeer is designed for road tracks with lots of turns. A sports car should stick to the road in turns and fly out of each turn ready for next one - FC and FD handle superbly in twistes as their skid path stats are high (86 and 96). In fact, skid path or road holding ability for 2004 Nissan 350Z and RX8 are less than FC.
#93
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Hater
Originally posted by gbowers
Drifting is in same category as burning rubber and drag racing as only immature drivers engage in this juvenile behavior.
FC RX7 suspension with slight understeer is designed for road tracks with lots of turns. A sports car should stick to the road in turns and fly out of each turn ready for next one - FC and FD handle superbly in twistes as their skid path stats are high (86 and 96). In fact, skid path or road holding ability for 2004 Nissan 350Z and RX8 are less than FC.
Drifting is in same category as burning rubber and drag racing as only immature drivers engage in this juvenile behavior.
FC RX7 suspension with slight understeer is designed for road tracks with lots of turns. A sports car should stick to the road in turns and fly out of each turn ready for next one - FC and FD handle superbly in twistes as their skid path stats are high (86 and 96). In fact, skid path or road holding ability for 2004 Nissan 350Z and RX8 are less than FC.
#94
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Originally posted by dufourmike
YOU MUST REALLY SUCK AT DRIFTING!!!!!!!!!!
i can hang my automatic better than any of the 240sx's in my club, and they are mildly modded cars with 1/2 decent drivers
YOU MUST REALLY SUCK AT DRIFTING!!!!!!!!!!
i can hang my automatic better than any of the 240sx's in my club, and they are mildly modded cars with 1/2 decent drivers
Hell, I think you suck also!
Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
-Ted
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Got back from D- day 8. The car handled GREAT! after the camber plates and shimmed inner ball joint on the rack. 2.5- camber and 1.5- increase on caster, 1.5-rear camber, 0 toe, 350lb. and 275lb. springs, shortened rear camber link. The shimmed rack give 1/4 turn more on the wheel which is a lot. It is starting to feel like a S13. I can thow it much more aggressive with the add rack travel.
#98
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Originally posted by n4ji
Would the fact that a 240 has an open differential and an FC has a LSD make any difference? my brother and I were coming home tonight (95 240sx se) and we were having some good ol' open diff-fun!
Would the fact that a 240 has an open differential and an FC has a LSD make any difference? my brother and I were coming home tonight (95 240sx se) and we were having some good ol' open diff-fun!
#99
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Originally posted by mazdized
Got back from D- day 8. The car handled GREAT! after the camber plates and shimmed inner ball joint on the rack. 2.5- camber and 1.5- increase on caster, 1.5-rear camber, 0 toe, 350lb. and 275lb. springs, shortened rear camber link. The shimmed rack give 1/4 turn more on the wheel which is a lot. It is starting to feel like a S13. I can thow it much more aggressive with the add rack travel.
Got back from D- day 8. The car handled GREAT! after the camber plates and shimmed inner ball joint on the rack. 2.5- camber and 1.5- increase on caster, 1.5-rear camber, 0 toe, 350lb. and 275lb. springs, shortened rear camber link. The shimmed rack give 1/4 turn more on the wheel which is a lot. It is starting to feel like a S13. I can thow it much more aggressive with the add rack travel.
#100
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As soon as i get back from Cali ( i was in the D1 driver search ), i will be developing a steering rack that provides more angle. I have gone too far with this car to just give up and buy a 240.
Here is what i realized when comparing FC's to 240s for drift...
FC comes with 5 lug and 4 piston brakes, 240s need 300zx susp.
FC comes turbo and can make 250hp for under $1k, 240's need SR for that.
FC come with a LSD, and a clutch type in S4, 240s can only buy vlsd's for 300.
FC's come with better seats, 240s feel like your going to fly out.
FC's have a firmer stock susp.
I know a few of these mods are generally swapped out, but im talking from a get your *** drifting perspective. [/B][/QUOTE]
Are you adding spacers to the tie rod ends or modifying the steering knuckle, and how much more steering angle do you think it will give. 1/4 turn... ect
Here is what i realized when comparing FC's to 240s for drift...
FC comes with 5 lug and 4 piston brakes, 240s need 300zx susp.
FC comes turbo and can make 250hp for under $1k, 240's need SR for that.
FC come with a LSD, and a clutch type in S4, 240s can only buy vlsd's for 300.
FC's come with better seats, 240s feel like your going to fly out.
FC's have a firmer stock susp.
I know a few of these mods are generally swapped out, but im talking from a get your *** drifting perspective. [/B][/QUOTE]
Are you adding spacers to the tie rod ends or modifying the steering knuckle, and how much more steering angle do you think it will give. 1/4 turn... ect