Double diaphram booster; can it not suck?
#1
Double diaphram booster; can it not suck?
Well I recently installed a S5 TII BMC in my FB because I happened to have one lying around and the stocker had **** the bed on me. It feels great on the street but those feels quickly evaporated when I took it to my local track on the 4th.
This was my face in the first braking zone:
Initial bite is god-awful, then after a second or two the pedal drops an inch and it goes into the verge of lockup (im on slicks at this point btw). I got used to it over the course of the day but the current setup is hardly confidence inspiring.
I'm thinking I can help the initial bite by ditching my oatmeal pads and going with some hawk's or the like, it also desperately needs some kind of adjustable proportioning valve as I currently have none and the rears are the first to go.
I suppose my questions are as follows:
This was my face in the first braking zone:
Initial bite is god-awful, then after a second or two the pedal drops an inch and it goes into the verge of lockup (im on slicks at this point btw). I got used to it over the course of the day but the current setup is hardly confidence inspiring.
I'm thinking I can help the initial bite by ditching my oatmeal pads and going with some hawk's or the like, it also desperately needs some kind of adjustable proportioning valve as I currently have none and the rears are the first to go.
I suppose my questions are as follows:
- Can any adjustments be made to the booster to improve pedal feel?
- Are there any other boosters available that fit the S5 TII BMC?
- Is this setup worth dumping more money into?
#2
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Sounds like the booster>MC pushrod isn't adjusted right.
Ditch the whole thing and get the booster/MC from a Subaru Legacy (1 1/16") or an Acura Integra (1") as a combo from the junkyard.
The Subaru is easiest as it already has the 10mm input shaft to match the Mazda clevis. It's a direct swap, requiring just a bit of fiddling with the brake lines.
Ditch the whole thing and get the booster/MC from a Subaru Legacy (1 1/16") or an Acura Integra (1") as a combo from the junkyard.
The Subaru is easiest as it already has the 10mm input shaft to match the Mazda clevis. It's a direct swap, requiring just a bit of fiddling with the brake lines.
#6
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Physically yes, your MC would bolt on to either the Honda or Subaru booster but that kinda puts you right back to square one if the rod is the problem.
Sorry I'm not more helpful, my yard sells the booster/MC combo for $40 and it's easier for me to just get the whole shebang and not mess with the adjustment.
Sorry I'm not more helpful, my yard sells the booster/MC combo for $40 and it's easier for me to just get the whole shebang and not mess with the adjustment.
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