I was told you HAVE TO do the TPS adjustment procedure on an engine that's FULLY WARMED up. BUT, my car never seems to reach full operation temperature, since it runs cooler most of the time. if you don't wanna warm up the car 1st, is there ANOTHER way to setup the throttle body so that its in the RIGHT position to do the TPS Adjustment when the engine is COLD? Is there something that I can disable or enable, to simulate a FULLY HOT ENGINE? Detailed descriptions and perhaps a pic would really be appreciated!

 

Disconnect the fast idle cam from the throttle assy.

I think that should cover it...

 

I prefer doing it while the motor is still hot. I find its most accurate. Get her nice and warm and go at it. Even with the fast idle closed, when its cold i get a different reading then when its at normal operating temperature.

 

were is the fast idle at? what does it do?

 

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm Fuel section for Turbo. Look at page 4B62. It shows the fast idle cam, screw, roll pin etc.

 

1. Take the intercooler off.
2. See the two upper nutz on the throttle body?The ones that hold the throttle body on? One inch and five sixteenths from the aft nut, you WILL see a THROTTLE STOP SCREW. If the engine is cold, that 1/2 inch long screw(from head to bottom) will NOT be touching a TANG, that is inline with the screws centerline. There should be a gap of 1/16 or so.
3. Now located the DASH POT. Its four inches to the right of centerline of the throttle body. It is round in shape. Gold in color. A hair under 2 inches in dia. Now to the left of the dash pot, and approx 3/4 inch under the dash pot, there resides a SCREW. That screw is in a bracket. LIFT that bracket in an upward direction.
4. When you lifted the bracket w/screw in it, the aforementioned gap between the THROTTLE STOP SCREW and the TANG, should not exist anymore
5. Let go of the bracket with screw. Gap should still be nil.
6. Open the throttle and let go.
7. The gap is back. I had you do this so you could do the lift the bracket with the screw all over again. Just wanna show you that if the gap is there, then the fast idle cam has not released and if you monkey f...k around adjusting the tps and accidently lift the throttle, then you need to go back and lift the bracket and screw again to close the gap b/t the throttle stop screw and TANG.
8. So you have no gap and are now ready to check the tps.
9. I'd only do it this way if I were absolutly 112 percent positive that the thermowax and fast idle cam were working properly.
10. I really agree with CYMFC3 above though. By the way, if you have a thermostat in the car, it just has to warm up to operating temps. Ain't no way around it.

 

AMEMIYA.........Are you looking at the o2 sensor with a digital meter at the time that you say the engine is running lean at lower throttle????? Or a Greedy or Autometer???? Where did you get the five tps from?

 

I set it to 1v at the ECU.. Wouldn't this be the most accurate way to accound for resistance in the harness?

 

Brian P....thats the only method I use with a fully hot engine. Darned if I'll bust my ***** over setting a tps.

 

HAILERS....thanks for the info ill make sure to look at that. but i have one more question to ask. how do you adjust the tps?

 

HAILERS!, many thanks dude, finally someone gave us the complete HOW TO to doing this!

 

Billy.....I do what Brian P and others do. On the N/A I stick the meter lead in the back of the green wire with a red stripe on the tps connector which is still hooked up, and adjust the screw until it reads one volt. On the turbo I stick a meter lead in the back of pin 2G on the ECU and read the voltage there until its adjusted to one volt. But befor I do that I make sure the car is fully warmed up as in hot, and that the fast idle cam has fallen off the roller. If you don't know that this condition has been met then your wasting your time unless you like to go to the beach and lift one foot and wipe the sand away, put that foot down and lift the other foot and wipe the sand away and put that foot down and lift the first foot again and wipe the sand away and put that foot down and.............Anytime you mess with the fast idle screw, fast idle cam, idle stop screw....then your messing up your tps setting. If you go to your car in the morning and check the tps setting while its cold..your wasting your time, it ain't gonna be the same as when you set it when it was hot and the fast idle cam was off its roll pin. Now that I wrote all that bull..if your tps is truly corrupt, then its best to do it by the manual because you'll be looking for *opens* in the resistance reading when you do it that way(the ohms method) and then theres the red and green lite assy which was made to lighten my wallet of some green backs. On the whole a godawful waste of time and money but works real good for others. Time to go watch the talking heads on FOX EDIT: FOR 86-88 MODELS

 

HAILERS....thanks very much. that help a hell of a lot.
well time to work on the rex agean.

 

I need to adjust my tps and wanted to confirm if I could use my SAFC to do so. In the etc. menu, it reads the throttle voltage at the bottom and I just wanted to confirm if this reading was coming from the tps? Right now, it's reading a little over 1.5v, so do I just need to adjust it until it reads 1v? Thanks.