Yes... I know this has been covered before anyone jumps me. I cant exactly find what Im looking for though. Im outside right now in the process of taking my engine and tranny out and all was going smooth until I got to the wiring harnesses that cross the top of the engine. Everything I tough turns to powder and breaks, or crakcs in half. How crucial is the majority of the wires in that harness. I cant yet see where they lead to. Also what about the vacuum... box thing. With the 4 or so solinoids I guess they are. Can those be done away with? I know Ive seen alot of engine bays very clean and with minimal wiring/vacuum lines. Im wanting to simplify my bay as much as i can without making it run like complete ****. Thanks

 

Also does anyone have any engine bay pictures that might be helpful to me? Some maybe showing what they have blocked off, or re routed, or plugged, ect. Thanks

 

Man, that is one fucked up engine. Everything is rusted to hell.

The plugs you have circled are for emissions crap. You can run the car without them.

The problem is that those are not the only important wires there.
You also have the ground ring terminal,2 fuel injectors,and the water temp sensor.

For wiring. The minimum needed is.
injector wires/water temp on waterpump/water temp on side iron/air temp on TB cap/BAC/ TPS/O2 wire/AFM/boost sensor/variable resistor
That's all I can think of right now

 

Check out www.rotaryressurection.com

That basically tells you everything you can block off.

Along with what Digi7ech said...

 

Well........ you don't really need the BAC or O2 sensor...

 

thanks for the help. yeah i realised the injectors were on that branch after i moved some more junk out of the way. i guess im just going to have to find a used engine harness somewhere and swap it out. cause this harness is just crap. a 1/2'' thick piece of harness wont bend more than about 5 degrees before it begins to crack into 100 pieces. STUPID ROTARY HEAT! and yeah, my BAC is already gone.

Im doing all of this to an engine with an assload of miles and is burning coolant and oil like a bastard. But I dont have the $ currectly to rebuild. So i will fix all of the external leaks, put a new harness on and let it ride as-is until the time comes for a rebuild. I can handle some smoke on start up and a little rough idle... still works ok. I was suprised to feel that my turbo had almost no play in it. only play it had was a very little side to side, maybe .005 if that

 

You probably need a rebuild sooner than you think... but I guess you can't judge a book by it's cover. However, the outside appearance of your car is nice. Looks pretty good.

Someone said to check out Rotary Resurrection's site... here is the exact link you'll need:

86-88 Turbo Emissions Removal

 

yeah im sure it NEEDS a rebuild, but i cant afford one, so it will just have to wait. ill drive it like it is, and If it dies on me, oh well I have other transportation. It still runs ok and pulls pretty hard, it just likes to flood and idle rough.

 

Ok... Now Im going to swap it around. What do I need to keep on my wiring harness. Since the stuff I broke was all near plugs, most of which Im sure I dont need. So:
Injector Harness
TPS
CAS
MAF
Coolant Temp
Coolant Level
Oil Pressure
Oil Level
Alternator

anything else thats 100% Needed?

Im thinking Im safe on reusing my harness now as long as I be carefull and maybe coat it all with some electrical tape.

 

eh?

 

Oil pressure/level/and altnernator are on your drivers side harness. Not the EFI one.

 

I second that link.
Very informative.
The first thing I usually do to any RX7 I get my hands on, FB of FC is strip all emissions crap.........but then again they are only for use offroad.....

 

Im aware. I just want to know overall engine. Shouldnt what i listed be all you would need to have it run well while reducing emissions clutter?

 

Drivers side harness does not work with emissions items so you shouldn't be touching anything on there.

Your missing.
Boost sensor on pass fender and interior
Variable resistor on pass fender
Fuel pump override plug
BAC to help with powersteering/etc idle

 

yeah, forgot about boost sensor. i have no bac, nor power steering, so its a goner. whats the fuel pump override and variable resistor? anybody have pics of location, or more so what it does?

 

The variable resistor and fuel pump coupler are right on the passanger side strut tower. It is hard to miss them. One has a turn dial and the other is yellow and stands out. The VR is to adjust the AFR at idle. The fuel pump coupler is to enable the fuel pump to run without the engine running.

For the love of nice idles, why do so many not want the BAC? It works wonders when the rpms want to fall.

 

Well in my case i messed up the plug on the harness and tried to Mcguiver it and ended up making things worse. So its sitting there still attached with 2 soldered leads sticking off of the prongs. The wire on the harness got cut back too far and I lost it in the loom