watindes

Here is what happens after start up:

-puff of smoke out the exhaust for about ten seconds (blue) and then it goes away there is NO smoke afterward.

-I ran the car for about twenty minutes no overheating but the temp gauge didn't really go that high, not even half way up the read out. Also there was still pressure in the top radiator hose I could squeeze it and it gave a little but not as much as a normal piston engine, again it seems to stay cool or is that the normal position of the gauge?

-I was messing with the car for a while a forgot to shut off my fuel pump (I have a separate switch to it) and when I cranked it it took a really long time to start and than a big puff of smoke (gray or white I'm not sure) came out and than there was no smoke, did I flood it ?

I am just trying to make sure my water seals aren't gone I have great oil pressure and the car is the smoothest running automobile I have ever been in.

Just new to them and making sure everything sounds normal

Jesse

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't sweat it if it only does it for a few seconds... now if it starts smoking any time you decelerate, that could mean an internal engine problem

solareon

iTrader: (1)

What year car do you have? If you have an S4 (86-88)the gauge should only go up a 1/4. If you have an S5 (89-91) car the gauge should go up to the half way mark.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Looking at your picture thread you have an S4. So your temp gauge should only go 1/4 up the gauge.

watindes

Its an 87, ok so I know the gauge is ok and its not overheating I don't think I did the test right for coolant seals but I was running the car with the radiator cap off while it was cold and watched for bubbles and there were none and the coolant is green (not dirty) and properly mixed (hydrometer tested). there is no smoke at all at deceleration. Just a bit paranoid and about the big cloud, do you think I flooded it?

Jesse

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

even if you did flood it its still going to be fine after a minuet or so. As far as the temp gauge you can, and in my opinion (take it for what you think its worth), should fix it by buying a 195 F thermostat, I have an 88 with the same problem if you go to an auto parts store they tell you they dont have a 195 F for our cars but tell them to look at the adjacent model numbers, this requires some one who's not lazy to be working behind the counter, one of them will reveal a 195 F thermostat that fits exactly in our factory water neck like it should, and when run for 5 minuets, low and behold the temp sensor rises to half way like it should. Also its a good idea to see when your due for a new water pump, if your close to replacing it, then wait to fix this problem then, also most auto parts stores I went to didn't carry the thermostat gasket, but O'Reilly auto parts does have it on their floor, or you can order it online. Unless you want to get it from Mazda and cut off your arm for it.

I would listen to what arghx said about decelerating though. Drive around your neighborhood, find some one walking around and ask them to watch as you do a drive by, if they see smoke when you decelerate, then there you go, if not your probably fine.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Our cooling systems are designed for 180 degrees. You do not want to swap it for a 195 thermostat. That puts additional load on the cooling system and motor.

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

random question then, if our cooling systems were designed for 180 degrees you'd think one, Mazda screwed up all of our temp sensors, or two that our gauge would read half way when the car ran with a 180 thermostat. but maybe im completely off with that thought process.

on thought with Mazda screwing up with all of the S4s they did put the fuel pulse damper on our cars and as almost all of us have seen those are bad. Still have to replace mine on this motor.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

I'm not saying mazda did everything right with this car. The pulsation dampener is a known flaw. It's is also a well known fact that stock gauges can not be trusted. Mazda never published specs for the gauges so the information we have to go on is what has been learned by the community.

According to the mazda racing department temperatures above 200 degrees are approaching catastrophic engine failure. If you have a 195 thermostat then you are awfully close to that limit don't you think? If you do some searches on "195 thermostat" you will find the info I am talking about.

ichihollow

iTrader: (2)

well no one likes a meltdown now do they? lol, I guess i need to bow out on this one.